FYI FORD MustangSteve's Ford Mustang Forum / crinkle effect on door edges

**Posted by JerryM** 10/07/2018 9:29 AM

Just about ready to repaint the interior on our 1965 coupe. My question is has anyone come up with a method to redo the crinkle effect on the upper door edges They have a busted egg shell look and I haven't been able to find a product to duplicate it. Is everyone trying to save it or just sanding and paint as normal.

**Posted by HudginJ3** 10/08/2018 8:40 AM

The way I did it was the strip all the paint off with Aircraft Stripper that I got at O'reilley's. I took a couple of times of going over it again using a small light wire brush. Make sure NOT to wash off the stripper until ALL of the paint is soft, knocking off the loose stuff as you lightly scrub the harder. Adding more stripper to that area as you need to soften it more. Prep it afterwards with the proper metal prep to prevent rust from starting. Stripping it will start the rust process rather quickly, even the same day. Prime it and then paint it your color with a spray can paint. I used Zinc Chromate as a primer back then, it has been replaced by Zinc Phospherous today that I ordered from Aircraft Spruce. (I'm more familiar with airplane parts) I would be afraid that if you don't use your color of paint sold by someone like NPD for example the paint will be too thick and fill in the cracks. The cracks are stamped into the metal door skin. That's why is used the airplane primer, it's also a thinner paint. I put on about 4 or 5 thin coats of color and came out looking like new. It was Parchment on a 66.

**Posted by JerryM** 10/08/2018 9:06 AM

Thanks for the info. Would never have thought the effect was stamped into the sheet metal. I have owned this car for 40 years and each time it's been freshened up the doors have received a light color dusting. You said you used a wire brush. Have any problems with scratch marks?

**Posted by HudginJ3** 10/08/2018 9:41 AM

There are several wire brush cournesses. I typically use a soft steel one or a little softer brass one about 3/8 wide and 3/4 in long. Yes it scratches it but doesn't gouge it. When you prep it you should go over the whole door with a scotch bright to take the sheen off of shinny metal. (Scratching it) That is done to help the paint adhear. The wire brush is used to get all the crud out of the little grooves / cracks and help loosen the old paint. Part of the wash job after stripping it should be cleaning it with MEK or Aceitone.

**Posted by JerryM** 10/08/2018 9:35 PM

Many thanks. I plan on starting this weekend.

**Posted by mustangermike** 10/10/2018 4:30 PM

This is interesting. I have wondered how that texture was achieved. I wonder what kind of tonnage had to be used to do that? Now that I know it’s stamped in, I can use the brass brush and stripper method!

**Posted by Alan** 10/21/2018 8:22 AM

mustangermike wrote:
This is interesting. I have wondered how that texture was achieved. I wonder what kind of tonnage had to be used to do that? Now that I know it’s stamped in, I can use the brass brush and stripper method!

The texture is rolled in when the sheets are made at he milll, not when they stamp the doors.

**Posted by Warnerhow** 1/13/2019 8:37 AM

Does anyone know the torque spec for the strike plate on the door frame? My doors are loose and rattle over the potholes, like to tighten them up a bit. Dave

**Posted by MS** 2/12/2019 7:55 AM

Warnerhow, in my experience, rattling doors are usually caused by severely worn hinges. Open the door about 45 degrees and then step outside and lift up on the door handle. If the handle moves vertically at all, the hinges need a rebuild. If yours are loose, check out mustangsteve.com for hinge rebuild kits that will make them better than new.
If you need to reposition the latch post, use a #3 phillips bit on an impact wrench to loosen and tighten the screws while pushing real hard to hold the bit into the screw. Attempting this with a screwdriver alone is usually futile.

Be sure to start a new post next time to get a more timely response.

**Posted by True74yamaha** 3/05/2020 12:15 PM

JerryM wrote:
Just about ready to repaint the interior on our 1965 coupe. My question is has anyone come up with a method to redo the crinkle effect on the upper door edges They have a busted egg shell look and I haven't been able to find a product to duplicate it. Is everyone trying to save it or just sanding and paint as normal.

After using a filler primer to fill the texture a bit. Spray a wet coat of primer surfacer or high build primer then use your wifes pots and pans stainless steel scrubby and lightly blot the wet primer. You can then lightly sand and feather edge out the new simulated texture with the original texture works great.

**Posted by Rudi** 3/09/2020 4:00 PM

The pattern on my doors were almost nonexistant when I got the car due to many coats of paint.
Originally I tried the paint remover and wire brush method but did not like the results so I had them blasted with walnut shells to reveal the original embossing.
My interior is black so a light coat of black epoxy primer and final colour using a Laquer base low build paint to finish. The black epoxy base helps make inevitable scratches less apparent.

**Posted by Cab4word67** 5/04/2020 4:15 PM

Is there a close match to the black color used on the inside doors? in rattle can, I have to touch up one door?

Last edited by Cab4word67 (5/04/2020 4:16 PM)

**Posted by 50vert** 5/04/2020 4:48 PM

I was gunna use this one, but airlines are really cracking down on aerosols in baggage.
https://www.npdlink.com/product/interior-paint-lacquer-spray-black-satin-non-metallic-for/107659?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fpage%3D2%26search_terms%3Dinterior%252Bblack%252Bpaint%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D

**Posted by Rudi** 5/06/2020 7:47 AM

National Parts Depot has rattle cans for 1965, PN AP 946 black satin for hard surfaces and VP 946 for soft parts.
The 67 and up used charcoal black metallic, it’s what I used in my car.

**Posted by Toploader** 5/19/2020 6:41 AM

Rudi wrote:
National Parts Depot has rattle cans for 1965, PN AP 946 black satin for hard surfaces and VP 946 for soft parts.
The 67 and up used charcoal black metallic, it’s what I used in my car.

I painted my interior with the NPD products about 17 years ago. Worked very well and looked great. Still looks great, except for drivers door needing another coat due to 17 years of wear and tear.