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11/08/2017 10:34 PM  #51


Re: My Cars

The Brother in law brought an extra pair of hands to stuff this thing in the car. With the clutch assemble installed and the motor hanging from a chain, the transmission slide right into place on the first try. First thought was we left something out and need to pull it apart, but we didn’t. Played with the output shaft with the trans in and out of gear and was happy with the results. 
 
We installed the motor tranny combo with a header bolted to the driver side. Note to self for next time is have the handle for the leveler to the back so it won’t hit the hoist!! Used the floor jack under the car to get the trans in place on the mount. Set the bolt in the driver side and repositioned the hoist to lift the passenger side up of the install the header from the bottom. Used the Felpro 1442 header gaskets and ARP bolts with the 5/16” hex head and anti-seize.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4506/37502054196_3c3d553824_z.jpg


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4445/37291618970_7f7658ef02_z.jpg


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4445/37291618970_7f7658ef02_z.jpg


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4556/26481403239_12691a2239_z.jpg


 


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
 

11/08/2017 10:38 PM  #52


Re: My Cars

This is the current ride height on stock replacement spring that hasn’t seen a drivetrain in 25+ years. If it don’t settle out some more, I will be cutting a coli at some point.
IMG 5148
 
The more I looked at it, the more I became my worst enemy. The top of the PS pump was leaning out further than I really liked. So, Time to re-drill the top pivot bolt and cut the bracket down.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4585/24386764328_8a0a66ed99_z.jpg


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4534/26481481429_a81475e293_z.jpg

Yea....I Know it didn't move much!!
 
Decided I didn’t like the alternator up high either. So, I used the Ford bracket as a template for the mounting holes and traced it out on 3/16 plate. I added a spot for an idler pulley and asked the guy at work to weld it up. The alternator is now down low and I hope it has enough surface area to not squeal.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4533/38203115136_ab30603064_z.jpg

Last edited by Bolted to Floor (11/08/2017 10:40 PM)


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
     Thread Starter
 

11/08/2017 10:43 PM  #53


Re: My Cars

The driveshaft came in about a 1/4 inch under the optimum length and is installed too. Took three tries ordering parts for the emergency brake to get all of them. For the first time since the 80’s the car is connected from the balancer to the rear end with a working E-brake.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4513/37518451042_0741b5d25e_z.jpg


https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4567/26481544189_156ab6f6e9_z.jpg


 


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
     Thread Starter
 

11/09/2017 10:16 PM  #54


Re: My Cars

Looking great! We will need a video of you firing it up.
 

 

11/09/2017 10:24 PM  #55


Re: My Cars

Thanks, I'm looking forward to a video of my driving it!!


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
     Thread Starter
 

5/01/2018 8:23 PM  #56


Re: My Cars

Used a piece of Swagelok tubing to route from vacuum port in the intake runner toward the brake booster. 
 http://i66.tinypic.com/2edxjtg.jpg

 
Went back to wiring so it can be complete before I drop a battery in to crank it. The interior is mostly complete for routing and some end device connections. Thanks to Bullet Bob for the list of Terminal Supply part numbers
 
 Wiring to the rear is complete with the sending unit for the gas gauge connected. Front running lights and headlight pigtails are in. Relays for the headlights are installed by the Duraspark box on the left fender apron. I got the Painless harness to the Duraspark harness I bought figured out, I think. I got a 3 prong weatherpack connector to connect the power feeds and a tach signal wire from the Duraspark harness to the Painless harness.
 
  The gauge cluster wiring is going to take some more thought and digging. The Painless harness is set up for an ammeter and oil pressure gauge. My car has a tach and idiot lights for the oil and alternator. The 67 shop manual shows diagrams for gauges or lights in the charging section, I just have to merge the two. The 3G alternator adds to the confusion.
 
I started with tracing the wiring diagrams for the gauges to see what wires went where. Next, I traced out the wires in my factory harness to compare what was different. Then I started on the Painless harness to see how they did it. I made several sketches before I finally decided on what I thought was right. A few calls to Painless Tech support and the guy agreed that it should work, I started cutting and splicing wires.
 
Since I didn’t buy the Painless kit for a 3G alternator, which took me a little figuring too. This is another one I think I got right!
 
http://i65.tinypic.com/whofao.jpg

 

Last edited by Bolted to Floor (5/01/2018 8:25 PM)


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
     Thread Starter
 

5/01/2018 8:35 PM  #57


Re: My Cars

 
When I bought the Painless harness about 6-7 years ago, Jegs gave me the wire loom kit. I didn’t care about it then, but I have realized I really like it. Thank you Jay Brown for telling us the same stuff can be bought a McMaster Carr for a lot less money. After adding the extra wires along the normal path that Ford took for the Aux fuse block and ground, fog lights, the AC switch for low pressure, and a head light feed I had to change to a bigger size loom.

http://i64.tinypic.com/1zz0t29.jpg


I bought Type GXL/TXL, depending on the size, colored wire in various sizes from the Wirebarn in 25 foot coils to do the things I needed above.  The first spot on the Aux Block went to the headlights.
  
I cut out a flat plate from sheet steel that’s been around the house forever to hold 3 MIDI fuse blocks and tapped holes to secure them. I used some red insulating board pulled from a moth balled piece of switch gear as an insulator to the steel. Had to buy some fuses, 150A for the alternator, 70A for the Painless block, and a 40A for the auxiliary block. Got some spares to keep in the glove box too.
 
A #2 in red goes from the battery to the solenoid then to the starter. A fused #6 goes from the alternator to the battery. The top side of the smaller fuses are tied together with #8. #2 black is the engine block ground. A black #10 goes from the negative battery post to the interior for a ground block and a #10 for a chassis ground. There is a bond wire from the back of the head to the chassis too. Lugs from Grainger, my crimp tool, matching colored glue lined heat shrink and I was in business. I bought late model battery clamps from Ford after I noticed them on my company truck. I liked the way they bolted down on the battery post and have a stud for securing the ring terminals.
 
http://i67.tinypic.com/bfy1g.jpg

 


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
     Thread Starter
 

5/01/2018 8:45 PM  #58


Re: My Cars

The exhaust system is a 2 ½” Flowmaster bolt in kit. I was surprised how well it went in. With the slip fitting elbows near the header collectors, I got everything to line up nicely with at least a fingers worth of clearance where ever needed. The ball sockets for the header collectors was butt welded to the end of the elbows. No cutting was required on the kit to get it in my car. The Flowmaster mufflers will be gone when I hear a drone. The next set will probably be Dynomax.
 
http://i64.tinypic.com/2zzkdpd.jpg


http://i67.tinypic.com/ilvu3l.jpg


http://i63.tinypic.com/112g208.jpg


 


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
     Thread Starter
 

5/01/2018 8:52 PM  #59


Re: My Cars

I sway bar I got years ago from PST, turns out to be for a small block car!! Another one of those things I didn’t know 15 years ago. So, I bought a sway bar and Bilstein shocks from Opentracker. The back shocks are installed, the front shocks are half installed and the sway bar is back ordered!! The tops won’t be bolted in till I have everything in place so I don’t have to work around the export bar.
 
 
Mounted the reservoir to the firewall and got the hose connected then bent up a bracket to hold the lines to the throw out bearing away from the pressure plate.
 
http://i66.tinypic.com/rv9dtx.jpg



http://i66.tinypic.com/10gae7d.jpg


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
     Thread Starter
 

5/01/2018 9:02 PM  #60


Re: My Cars

I have laid under the car on many occasions looking at a route for power steering hoses. I didn’t want to come up over the shock tower like the typical hoses from Borgeson. I used some swagelok tubing to make hard lines that start near the oil filter adapter and go back toward the bell housing. I cut up 4 11/16 electrical box covers to make the first set of plates for securing the hard lines. I used rubber hose to mock up on both ends for connections and made some reference marks to determine lengths and took it all to Katy Hydraulics for real hoses along with pictures of how it would be routed. He suggested steel braid since I would be about 3/4” away from the headers. After looking at my tubing, he suggested using silver solder to attach AN fitting. It would be more cost effective than him recreating the pieces!! Back home under the car, I’m tweaking one of the tubes when I broke a fitting loose, uh oh. I did have the box end of the wrench on the fitting trying to tweak the tubing, DUH. If you’re gonna be stupid, you gotta be rich……….I wish I was!! I left that hanging and I went on the other stuff. It’s the Friday before Easter and I trying to get the car started before the end of the weekend. I did get the fitting repaired the next week and all installed. It's full of fluid and made turning a lot easier.
 
This is what I took the guy as a template
http://i66.tinypic.com/zmgvx5.jpg


http://i66.tinypic.com/24655rc.jpg


http://i65.tinypic.com/30nhggk.jpg


This is what I got back
http://i68.tinypic.com/25649ic.jpg


 

Last edited by Bolted to Floor (5/01/2018 9:47 PM)


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
     Thread Starter
 

5/01/2018 9:17 PM  #61


Re: My Cars

I installed the steering shaft only on the car. The tube was painted a while back along with a few other pieces and for some reason, the paint doesn’t quite match the rest of the interior pieces. Body shop guys suspects the paint went bad from sitting. It was several years between parts. Anyway……I was surprised that it was relatively easy to get to the rag joint to tighten the bolts. You may notice in steering wheel moving around as I turn it in the video .
 
My wife assembled the condenser, mounting brackets, dryer, and hoses to get it back into the engine compartment. She got it bolted into the car and I checked to fittings to make sure they were tight. I bought a 4 core Champion radiator, factory fan shroud, an 18” replacement type fan blade from Summit, and the Hayden 2711 fan clutch to hopefully keep the car cool. It’s a HUGE radiator. The shorter fan clutch is a “have to”. There is just enough room the pull the fan clutch off the water pump with a piece of cardboard between it and the radiator. It’s been 25 years or so since I pulled the motor. I have forgotten how much of a puzzle this thing is to put together. Plenty of parts on and off as I figured it out on Saturday. The last time out for install, the PS pump & AC compressor came off, fan shroud set over water pump, fan & clutch on, radiator goes in like a diamond then rotates into position and everything else gets bolted back on.

http://i68.tinypic.com/b9j91y.jpg



http://i66.tinypic.com/25f7q1f.jpg

 
I taped up the rest of the wires under the dash that I didn’t need to start, most lighting stuff. Connected the gauge cluster pig tail and installed the starter switch. I watched about 3-4 videos trying to figure out how to get the tumbler installed. Connected the battery and I saw one little spark as I connected it. Pull back and look around, then reconnect, no spark this time. I saw the door lights come on. Never seen that before, WOW. Look around the car and watch for smoke or burning wire. Nothing. Turn the key to the right and keep watching….the oil and alternator lights came on. Things are looking up. Twist it a little farther and it starts cranking over. WOO HOO. Roll it out of the garage, pour gas in the tank and look for leaks. Pour water in the radiator and look for leaks. I haven’t changed anything since it came home from the dyno, so it should run if the wiring is right. Prime the carb and hit the key….it coughs and sputters and tries to start. More gas in the carb and hit the key and it comes to life, about 10:30 on Saturday night. I was smiling like a kid at Christmas. Walking around the car with a flash light looking at stuff, grinning from ear to ear, holly crap there’s a big puddle under the car and its growing. Fuel coming from around the fuel pump. Kill it and grab a wrench. Yep, the line up to the carb has a loose fitting at the pump. Cranked it up again and let it run for 15-20 minutes. It’s a happy day for me. Poke fun if you like, I was excited. This fall will be 30 years I’ve owned this car, its never ran.
 
It started, so the Duraspark wiring must be right. Not sure if the Tach will work. The oil light went out after firing up, so that must be right. The alternator light is still on, looks like I missed that one.
 
New list of thing to look at:
Charging system
Temperature gauge pegs while running
Gas gauge does not register
Car pops and backfire when I idle it down
Vacuum module is ruptured
Time to start tuning. We will see how much I bug you guys with questions.
 
Went for a short test drive on Sunday.
 



 


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
     Thread Starter
 

5/01/2018 9:27 PM  #62


Re: My Cars

The front sway bar is now installed.

http://i64.tinypic.com/344b512.jpg

 
 
Test fit the AC hoses and cut to length. Indexed the crimp fittings and marked for reference when I go back to get the PS tubing repaired.
 
Back on the PS hoses and tubing, I made some brackets to secure the tubing and tightened all the connections. If I had to do it again, I would get one end of the hoses crimped and let the others run long and make the final cut on the car and make the extra trip for crimping.  The hose I used for make-up didn’t act or lay the same as the steel braid. The crimped connectors made a difference in how the hoses would bend. Installed the belt, filled the pump with fluid and lifted the front of the car to reduce weight when I started turning the wheel. It took a quart of fluid to fill the system. It was making noise at first, but after 5-6 turns lock to lock, its easy and quiet.
 
http://i63.tinypic.com/317b9u1.jpg


http://i63.tinypic.com/303ij3q.jpg


http://i65.tinypic.com/vzcvg2.jpg

This is looking up from the ground
 
The A/C hoses are now installed, but not connected to the compressor. Export bar is on.
 
The top side of the shocks are done too. It wasn’t as easy as I thought it should be. Had to file on the upper shock mount to get the turned through it. The cross piece that the bolts go through may come out of the other shock, but it didn’t look like it was going to come out of these. Had to pull the shocks back off the car to test fit, then bolt the upper mount to the shock before bolting back onto the car.
 
http://i65.tinypic.com/w9fuy8.jpg


 


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
     Thread Starter
 

5/01/2018 9:29 PM  #63


Re: My Cars

Ok, the head lights should be easy??? Breakout the voltage tester, let’s check for voltage at the head light sockets.
 
 
Head light switch on, no voltage, huh. Pull a relay, no voltage there either, what? OH yea, install the fuse.
Power at the relay for the lights, no coil power. OK, power to the dimmer switch, yes. Away from the switch, no. Trying to unplug the wire from the switch and the switch falls apart in my hand. Time to throw that away. Dig in the box with the old wiring harness and find the old dimmer switch. It’s a Ford piece, Wow. And it still works, so in it goes. With voltage for high and low beams at the sockets, headlamps are installed.  
 
http://i63.tinypic.com/90rjwp.jpg

 6832
 


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
     Thread Starter
 

5/01/2018 9:46 PM  #64


Re: My Cars

It’s time to start trying to tune this thing. Idling it down wasn’t helping and it was kicking back on the starter while cranking when warm and back firing through the carb. Car is way rich from just smelling the exhaust. Using an infrared temp gun and shooting the exhaust ports, there is a 40-50 degree temp difference between some of the cylinders. When I changed the plugs, a couple of them were decent looing but most were black. New plugs didn’t help to even the temps across the cylinders. Decided to follow the Dyno guys advice and get some new plug wires. The MSD’s made it sound better when it started and got the temperature within 15 degrees of each other.
 
Broke out the timing light to see where this was sitting. Used some blue painters tape to make shift my timing marks so I could see them. Had to pull the timing way back to get it to 12 degrees BTDC. Pulled the carb back off to make sure the transfer slot looked right. All the idle screws were sitting at ¾ turn or less out. Turned them out to 1-1/2 turns and called it good for now.
 
Don’t have a working tach yet, so I bought one of the infrared tuning tachs from Harbor Freight. Testing on the wife’s car showed 600 on her tach to an average of 618 on the HF gizmo box. Played with the idle, the HF tool says 850 RPM and it sounds a lot better than it did in the first video.
 


 
Installed the body of the steering column, now I need some seats. Started with the plug on the back of the alternator to see why it’s not charging. Turns out I pushed the wires into the connector wrong. I swapped the outside wires to get the battery charging. One more thing of the list.
 
http://i64.tinypic.com/95s94l.jpg



This air cleaner is temporary. I bought it from a guy on a Facebook Bump Side page. I really had my doubts that the hood would close.
http://i66.tinypic.com/n4z4fn.jpg

 


 


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
     Thread Starter
 

5/03/2018 7:40 PM  #65


Re: My Cars

Looking great John! 

 

5/23/2018 1:15 PM  #66


Re: My Cars

Hey John, in your sway bar pic I noticed the strut rod threaded end had only one nut on it. My 69 had a jamb nut also. Just checking, for safety, ya know. Car looks great, can't wait to see it in September.


Bob    69 Mach 351w, AOD Build-:http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/44555-the--oh no I used a word I shouldn't have--is-back/
 

5/23/2018 9:55 PM  #67


Re: My Cars

70 Coupe wrote:

Looking great John! 

Thanks 70 Coupe


rpm wrote:

Hey John, in your sway bar pic I noticed the strut rod threaded end had only one nut on it. My 69 had a jamb nut also. Just checking, for safety, ya know. Car looks great, can't wait to see it in September.

Bob, that’s a good observation. When I took the car apart, there wasn’t a jam nut. It was rusted, dirty and refused to turn. It took a torch, pipe wrench, and impact to get it all apart. The new nuts threaded on a lot easier. There will be jam nuts when I take it to get aligned.

The first time I read your post, I honed I’m on sway bar and was wondering why you would be worried about one nut on the sway bar end links!! And you was really zooming in to see that.

Looking forward to September also. Hopefully there won’t be a natural disaster interrupting our fun.


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
     Thread Starter
 

5/30/2018 9:18 PM  #68


Re: My Cars

Years ago, when I was still working on floor boards, I lowered the seat pans about 1” and scooted them back about ½”.
 
Now to mount the seats, I started with removing the stands from the seat tracks by drilling out the rivets. With a piece 3/16 X 2” angle, figured that would have a little more strength than a flat bar, I cut one side down to ½”, then laid out holes for drilling. The seat pans are on 14’ centers and the seats are on 15’s. The angle is just wide enough to make it all work. The bolts to hold the angle to the seat pans are drilled and tapped to 5/16 x 18 with red Loctite. For attaching the seat rails to the angle, I cut some small pieces of the 3/16 angle and had my buddy at work weld them in place to provide 3/8” of material for bolting down the seat. Those areas are drilled and tapped to 5/16 x 24 for pan head Allen bolts. This will allows the seat track to pass over the bolt head.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2jca61x.jpg


http://i63.tinypic.com/16ibpkz.jpg

 
Bolted the tracks on tonight and got them in the car. Moving the seat pans back made it a little difficult to get the nuts started, but it wasn’t too bad. The driver seat is power and it goes up, down, back, & forward with no issue. With the seat all the way down and positioned were I want for reaching the pedals, I have about 3 1/2” of clearance between my head and a bare roof. I will lose a bit more with carpet, but I think I am good for now. If I’m not once the carpet and headliner go in, then back to the drawing board!!

http://i66.tinypic.com/2wn7fol.jpg


http://i66.tinypic.com/2uz9pck.jpg


Now to make sure the steering column is where it’s going to stay.  

 


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
     Thread Starter
 

8/16/2018 5:02 PM  #69


Re: My Cars

Ok, been diligently working. Stereo and amp are installed. I mounted both of them the way I wanted and left it to Car Toys at Willowbrook to make them work. I had a nice conversation about my expectations and explicitly told them YOU CAN’T CUT HOLES IN MY CAR. They did a great job with the install. It’ll even have a back-up camera too once I get a bumper to mount it to. 
7386
http://i68.tinypic.com/ncxph0.jpg

 7385
http://i67.tinypic.com/2mwcmlk.jpg

   Sent the factory tach and gauges to Rocketman’s Classic Cougar. The gauges got calibrated and touched up. The tach got converted with modern guts to work with my Dura-spark set up. It works great. Bob was great to deal with, he responded to emails promptly, the stuff was well packed when it arrived and the price was fair. 
7389
http://i66.tinypic.com/2rrmnuw.jpg

 7480
http://i66.tinypic.com/345bksx.jpg

 


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
     Thread Starter
 

8/16/2018 5:08 PM  #70


Re: My Cars

I went with Wesco for seat belts. If you haven’t dealt with them before, be aware that custom colors are non-returnable. Customer colors are also made to order which increases the delivery time. It’s all listed there on the website when you go to the tab for the colors. I ordered one belt for the back seat since they were the cheapest and I wasn’t sure the color would be what I wanted. I wasn’t smart enough to ask for samples!! Got the hardware set to install the plates for the high point mount. The plate was meant to be installed with pop rivets, but it didn’t sit flat with the area. So I drilled and tapped to 1/4-20 for hex bolts with a fender washer. One of the hex head bolts on each side was pushing out on the head liner. So those got swapped for a pan head Allen bolt with a little grinding to flush it up.
7516
http://i68.tinypic.com/34rvjp0.jpg

 7498
http://i63.tinypic.com/2hx9100.jpg

 
 The headliner and glass got installed, but the trim was still with the guy that was taking out the dents and polishing. It has since been completed, but not installed. There was no good way to turn this pic!!
7515
http://i66.tinypic.com/w0gbxk.jpg


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
     Thread Starter
 

8/16/2018 5:16 PM  #71


Re: My Cars

In preparation of an inspection, I was getting the instrument cluster installed and was ready to test the wipers. Turned the switch on and saw the nubs in the cowl make about a 1/8 of a turn. Finally decided the switch was bad when I didn’t get power through it. With a new switch, had power to the motor, but it still no go roundy roundy!! As I was getting ready to pull the motor thinking this was going to be a real PITA, I looking through the area of the instrument cluster at the bracket I mounted to keep the ducts for the AC registers from hitting the wiper transmission thinking that there is contact there. Sure enough, the bracket was the problem,  wipers now work and the ducts have been tied out of the way. Sheryl wanted tilt steering, so I bought the Ididit column for a 68, so its collapsible, recommended for a power rack and the upper half of the rag joint. It bolted up to the Brogeson box without a problem. I did have to drill a hole in the lower dash mount for the wire to come through. After changing the crimp connector on the column harness, I used the Painless instruction and column instructions to get the column connector pinned correctly. Bought a Lecarre steering wheel and got installed too. So nice to hear the sound a horn makes. It’s a great feeling to have blinkers, stop lights, and a horn that works.
7564
http://i63.tinypic.com/11u9s3d.jpg


7654
http://i64.tinypic.com/ivguc0.jpg

 
I installed the jute underlayment  that come pre-cut and bought more from the upholstery guy to fill in any areas I could still see the floor pan and laid the carpet down. Only burned myself once with the soldiering iron while making holes. Installed the original front lap belts on a temporary basis to be able to pass inspection. Got the seats in and went for inspection, which it passed. Spent about an hour line at county annex for tags. It’ll be registered as a classic for now. I didn’t like the driving restrictions of an antique and make lousy liar if I get caught doing things I shouldn’t!!
The last time I registered the car was 1990. Texas still prorated tags then, and I was cheap. So, I bought tags for the month it was to expire to transfer the title.
 


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
     Thread Starter
 

8/16/2018 5:22 PM  #72


Re: My Cars

The ride back and forth for the inspections told me that there are more creaks than rattles and that the back tires rub the inner lip of the fender well and that those Bilstein shocks make it ride like a 1 ton truck. I cleaned up and re-installed the old helper springs and it gave me enough clearance on the back end. The next drive was over 10 miles. As a plus, the helper springs didn’t make it ride any worse!! Looks like it’s time to try a cheap set of Monroes. On the down side, the front springs are settling to the point I will have clearance issues in the front now. They were in the car when I bought it, I haven’t cut them and it doesn’t appear to have been cut by anyone else. When I was blasting them a while back, I did find a Moog part number, I think. The saga continues. Picked up the bumpers from the chrome shop and they look nice. For 8 bolts, I couldn’t believe how long it took me to get it installed where it looks right. Took a lot of time on Saturday to get the front installed mounted.
7637
http://i68.tinypic.com/dpgys6.jpg


  Returned the first dash that had a rip at the defroster vent and the new one arrived on Friday. Had to take more stuff off the dash to get it installed. It’s in now along with the AC registers and controls panel. Dealing with the dash area, there has been a lot of install, remove cause I can’t install other piece, reinstall, rinse, and repeat!! 
7634
http://i64.tinypic.com/rmnvaw.jpg

 7635
http://i63.tinypic.com/2s9dkhx.jpg

 
 Changed out the back shocks to the Monroe’s and that softened up the ride. New front springs made it today and the front Monroe’s will go on with them over the weekend.  We did take the care for another ride Monday evening after the shock change. Around the neighborhood went well, then we got out on the main road. Wound up first gear, and hit second to accelerate QUICKLY!! Started smelling antifreeze!! The nearest parking lot was a church. A quick look under the hood and one of the heater hoses blew apart at a connection. I had used the spring clamps, guess I need to upgrade to the worm style. Managed to get the hose back together, buy some water from a nearby convenience store and took it back home.  To be Bash ready, I need to=11ptInstall new coil springs, Monroe shocks, and get front end aligned=11ptAir conditioner operational=11ptCarb work=11ptInterior panels

Last edited by Bolted to Floor (8/16/2018 5:23 PM)


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
     Thread Starter
 

8/19/2018 1:26 PM  #73


Re: My Cars

You have really had a long tough journey but the end results are great. Sure hope to see you eventually on some of the Sunday cruise nights. Do have a feeling you will definitely be ready for the Mustang Club of Houston show at Los Cucos October 13th.


Life is too short to drive a boring car😎
 

8/19/2018 6:26 PM  #74


Re: My Cars

Thanks John. I am working feverishly toward that goal.

Found something old and new today!!

Working at swapping the coil springs and found a crack in the driver side shock tower. This picture is from the fender well side. The underlined area is what I knew about and tried to weld years ago from the engine compartment side before it went to the body shop. A testament to my welding skills, right??

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1880/44094281272_743457d819_z.jpg
Untitled

The next picture is what is looks like in the engine bay today.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1889/29205054687_c07a1e7638_z.jpg
Untitled

I would rather have someone with better welding skills weld it up this time versus changing out a shock tower. I wonder how much worse it can get if I drive it 600 to 800 miles before it gets welded?

Edit for pictures

Last edited by Bolted to Floor (8/20/2018 12:04 PM)


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
     Thread Starter
 

8/19/2018 7:49 PM  #75


Re: My Cars

Steve Buzek is a great welder & we also know of a welder who welded the hole in my block out there near Waller.


Life is too short to drive a boring car😎
 

Board footera


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