Pictures . I had a problem with partial quarters when I went to do my car. Don't go threw mustangs unlimited they sold me quarters that would've turned my car into a 59 cadilac. Horrible fit and they wouldn't do anything about it. If it was me depending on the cars cancer I'd do as small of a panel replace as a could that way less chance of body lines to be off when doing the panels like by where the quarter mates up to the end cap .  It's usually bad. Be aware that usually if the bottom of the quarter is bad behind the wheel than the trunk drop is more than likely rotted put and usually the outer wheel housing to.

Here's how I did mine. Have no idea what brand replacement panels I used, but the way I did it starting with the outer wheel well and fitting the quarter panel from there, fitment of the replacement quarter panel becomes a minor problem. I also tried to get the cuts as close to the existing body edges to reduce warping of the quarter panel when welding.

My neighbor and local mentor cuts his quarters in the valley on top of the quarter panel.  His experience is that it is hard to get the side flat since it is such a long span.  You can bury some mistakes in the valley and your sides will be flat and smooth.  I was able to patch my quarters as the rust was not extensive but I did have to repair the lower 8 inches of the wheel houses and the trunk drop-offs.  Post some pictures so we can see what you are facing.  The deluxe patch panels I purchased were junk and I ended up buying a full Dynacorn quarter for the driver's side and cutting out the pieces I needed.  An expensive patch panel but the work required to make the "patch panels" to work made them cheap in the long run.  Someone with patience and skills might be able to make them work but it was beyond me.

When I cut my friends off on his 65 coupe we actually used my bad pair I had received from mustangs unlimited seance they were a skin I simply didn't do the ole trace and cut method. I simply went and measured up above the wheel well about 4 inches uses a chalk line snapped it cut the panel then did the trace method. This allowed him to use my crappy panels seance money was an issue and I told him is give them to him. What i did next was use a special pair of duck bill Chanel lock pliers from eastwood that I've had and then uses them on the car to make it so the panel would be like a tung in groove in a way. After this I drilled some holes for spot welds on the quarter then ground the partial panel on the car clean so that I'd get a good spot weld and went to town after all this was done I did more spot weld on the seam every few inches. This allowed the panel time to cool so it wouldn't warp. Then came back did more and so on so forth to minimize warping. This worked awesome then I ground down the welds smooth and used some keylite which is a brand of body filler made by USC. Then after all that sanded it smooth and did the usual things after that. Another thing I know mustang ranch does here sometimes if they don't want to weld new quarters is they use epoxy panel adhesive to attach the panels this makes for a warp free panel and minimizes the filler that has to be used it's not to pricey either about 40 for the two chamber caulk gun which you could even get from homedepot in there Simpson strong tie section by anchoring epoxy and then the two part epoxy adhesive. A lot of body shops do this method

GPatrick wrote:

My neighbor and local mentor cuts his quarters in the valley on top of the quarter panel.  His experience is that it is hard to get the side flat since it is such a long span.  You can bury some mistakes in the valley and your sides will be flat and smooth.  I was able to patch my quarters as the rust was not extensive but I did have to repair the lower 8 inches of the wheel houses and the trunk drop-offs.  Post some pictures so we can see what you are facing.  The deluxe patch panels I purchased were junk and I ended up buying a full Dynacorn quarter for the driver's side and cutting out the pieces I needed.  An expensive patch panel but the work required to make the "patch panels" to work made them cheap in the long run.  Someone with patience and skills might be able to make them work but it was beyond me.

 
So you didn't like the fit of the dynacorn quarter? Due to condition and previous owner accident I will be replacing the full quarter.

6sally6 wrote:

Hakan.......your pics make it look pretty easy..........sorta!
One question...(make that FIRST question!) did you weld the outer edge of the wheel housing to the wheel opening on the quarter?
Thanx
6sal6

It ain't really hard, just takes a lot of patience, time and a good hammer and dolly.

I did not weld the outer edge of the wheel housing to the quarter panel at this stage as I didn't know if I would need to cut into or roll them later to fit the wheels. Found out later that I could keep them as-is and spotwelded it together. Here's when I testfitted the wheels for the first time:




Also found pics from when I replaced the driver's side quarter panel:

I have done patch panels(current fastback), two rull reproduction panels(fastback i had before current one), and a full quarter skin that I flanged a small lip to weld in on my coupe.

The Dynacorn full quarter panels I got were pretty good, not perfect but good.  I decided to patch the lower rear areas of my fastback since I am trying to keep all original panels on it.

The way hakan did his is a great way to do it.  I have done many patch panels similar to his method with good results.

On my Fastback the front and rear lower parts of outter wheel housing had some mild rust so I patched them by trimming the quarter panel patch a little higher than the area on the wheel well I needed to repair. This allowed me to butt weld new pieces in.

You have many options and as long as you take your time can get you a good result.

6sally6 wrote:

So my first step should be..........grind off paint in known bondo'ed area and expand out from there? Once I get to good metal then figure the right size of patch panel?!
Sound like a plan? Anybody think of something better?
Thanks
6sally6

I just put ah flapper wheel on my angle grinder and went to town. Only took me about 5minutes to do this

Been talking to a guy I work with.......He usta be a body man and painter. He's had some health issues(because of paint) and now works at Poop Boyz.
When I asked him about panel adhesive vs welding...he's pretty much convinced me to go the adhesive route! He said he was doing that kind of work yeeears ago.  No weld spatter..no weld thru primer and possibly makeing an area for rust to form......no warping...no wled to grind smooth....use less bondo filler...time to move panels around before it totally sets up.
He said new car roofs have been getting glued on,from the factory, for several years.
Thinking I can use clamps to hold panels in place. OR.....could attach them together with screws.......once it sets up,just grind the screw heds flush.
Any of you guyz went the panel adhesive route?
6sally6
 

Mike,  I have a friend who used Panel Bond (glue) to replace the quarters on his Toyota Land Cruiser and it looks great.  It's an older resto and so far nothing has fallen off.  He flanged old quarter remains and lapped the new.  Says the big thing is that everything needs to be surgically clean.

Good luck, get started soon.  Only nine months 'til the bash.

Bob

Bullet Bob wrote:

He flanged old quarter remains and lapped the new.

 Spla'in that a little. How did he flange it and what tools...etc...
Thanx
6s6

I have been using the flange and plug weld method, which is more similar to a factory overlap where a spotweld would be used.  Some call this the wrong way to do it, but it works very well and keeps the welding to a minimum to avoid warpage.  And I have not had one ever crack where the bondo fills the edge.  The right rear floor on my 66 was recently done using the flange and plug weld method.  You cannot see a joint anywhere.

The pic of the new tranny hump shows how I flanged and punched holes in the new panel prior to welding it in.

Prefer the butt weld like Hakan's but not every project is worthy of that level of effort!