Always good to have friends and family around to help. Is that the gorgeous Nomad that was at the Sonic the night before the Bash? I remember talking to the buy about his custom interior.

Terry just goes to show blood is thicker than oil. Nice to have family to help out. I remember the Nomad also, your just lucky I'm not you cousin, you might still be there.LOL

Not sure yet what happened but I suspect FUEL PUMP! Maybe I need to carry a spare fuel pump??????

New tank, new tank, new tank. LOL

BB
 

Redvert67 wrote:

I had a similar mishap yesterday as well. Luckily it came out better. I drove my 67 convert to the only station in my area that has non-oxygenated gas, put in Sta-bil, filled it up and headed home. About 2 miles from the station the engine quits running! Called my brother who lives about 1 mile away to help me. We determined it had no spark. I had converted to Accel electronic ignition about 6 years ago, and never had any issues since then. My brother gave me a ride to a towing service about a mile away, and they would send a truck shortly. Went back to the car to wait and decided to try it again. Cranked it over, still no start. But, I noticed when it was cranking my tach needle wasn't moving. Did some checking and found the wire running to the tach had slipped down and was melted into the header. It was shorting out the coil causing my no start! Fixed the wire and it started right up. Drove it home, cancelled the tow, rerouted the wire and put the car away for the winter! Sometimes you just get lucky!

Just wondering how in the world a tach wire got even remotely close to an exhaust header?????????????
Putting some miles on a car will quickly weed out those that did not take the time to route wiring properly!

"Just wondering how in the world a tach wire got even remotely close to an exhaust header?????????????
Putting some miles on a car will quickly weed out those that did not take the time to route wiring properly!"


I was wondering that also. I thought it was wire tied in with the rest of the wires on the drivers side of the engine compartment. I must of missed it. The wire was way too long and fell down by the fuel pump. It's strange though, the tach has been in there for 10 years.

terry wrote:

Corky, that is the same trailer!  I got you beat though My car beat yours it got to ride in that trailer about 70 miles!!  I did tell Irie not to get used to this trailer queen treatment!!!!!!!!!!!!! NOT GONNA HAPPEN!!!

BB, I assure you IF it is a clogged issue, the tank will be replaced this winter!!!

Another "benefit" of runnig a huge camshaft on the street.......sooo much fuel is passing through the system it keeps ALL the trash and impurities washed out.
PLUS...the way they buck and surge.....you don't know if they're missing or not!
"Big rollers make me giggle!"
 

terry wrote:

I have a fuel filter inline between the tank and fuel pump, I took line loose from filter and I have flow.  Took line off outlet of pump and turned key on and I have flow.  I put all back together and the car started. I adjusted the fuel regulator to about 4 lbs.  I took it down the road several times and it started cutting out.  I pulled into my drive and looked at fuel gauge on regulator under the hood.  It shows 0.  I let car sit awhile and started it and fuel went up to 3lbs.  Ran it awhile and it dropped back to 0.  
I'm thinking the pump is getting hot or warm and stopping pumping????? this pump is only a couple years old and the tank was new 5 years ago.  I also drained the tank last year and removed the sending unit to test for amperage to buy my fuel gauge.  I never had any signs of rust then and cant imagine it rusting that fast enough to cause a plugged up pickup tube.  I ordered a new pump and will change it and see

You're running an electric pump.............just cause they look trick?!
6s6
 

Terry,  I like the idea of the fuel filter between the pump & the carb.  If the pump disintegrates, you have a filter to catch stuff before it gets to the carb.  Where your filter is, you are protecting your pump & carb from tank debris, but if your filter is after the pump, everything is filtered before it gets to the carb.  I suppose you could go to overkill mode and use 2 filters....

MustangSteve wrote:

I agree with sal...  Why in the world are you running an electric fuel pump?  Mechanical ones are bulletproof. 

Not buying the story about no hole in the cam for a dowel.  Where did THAT cam come from?  Without the dowel, how does the timing chain turn the cam?  Maybe THAT is why it quit running...
Sounds like you just did not understand the differences between the requirements for a one piece vs a two-piece fuel pump eccentric.  (different length dowel, different eccentric, different timing chain sprocket)

I have always run the fuel filter between the frame rail and the fuel pump.  That way, the FUEL PUMP is also protected from any debris.  Holley carbs have a sintered bronze fuel filter that goes in the fuel inlet fitting.  If anything did get past the fuel pump, it would stop right there.  I wish I had kept track of all the Mustang miles I have driven over the past umpteen years.  That way I could tout  43gerzillion miles with never a fuel pump failure.   My pump will probably go out tonight just because of this. 

If it helps you any, I have a brand new Red Holley fuel pump I will sell cheap.  It has maybe five minutes run time on it as a low pressure pusher pump for the EFI pump I had on the car during my misguided EFI period.

Steve, that dowel doesnt hold the timing gear the key does!  The only purpose that dowel serves is to keep the eccentric from spinning.   I took the eccentric and the dowel off of my 289, if I remember correct the dowel was about 3/8 or 1/2" long.  The hole in the cam flange would only allow the dowel to go about half the length in.  I thought about drilling the hole deeper or cutting the dowel off but I was afraid of messing something up.
No I did not know the differences in two piece or 1 piece eccentrics.  and apparently no one else on this forum did either. I presented this problem to the forum and never got an answer so I moved forward.  Later in a discussion about this very problem, You told me there was an easy solution but you never revealed the solution.
This was the first engine I had ever put together and NO I did not have all the answers and yes I did make some mistakes.
I have a Holley fuel pump on my shelf that I bought and took back off because it was too noisey!
Not sure where my story got twisted around but my filter is BETWEEN the TANK and the PUMP AND I have a filter right at the carb.  The pump clearly states on it the warranty is voided if used without a filter

I  also misstated there was a hole in the cam just not a deep enough hole!!

Sal,  My electric fuel pump isnt there just because it looks trick its in front of the tank and cant be seen unless you crawl under the car

I have since found the answer to what to use.  Apparently the 289 cam has a deeper hole than the 302 does, so for a 302 you have to use the 2 piece eccentric that has a finger on the back that catches in the shallow hole instead of using a dowel.  Its not worth it to me to tear the front of this engine apart to go back to a mechanical fuel pump.


Fuel pump eccentrics are another situation to be very mindful of. Ford made two basic types: one-piece (right), and two-piece (left). The one-piece eccentric was used from 1962–1972 with a 1.375-inch cam drive pin. A two-piece eccentric came along in 1973 with a shorter 1.125-inch cam drive pin. Problems abound when you use the wrong pin. For fuel injected engines, there is no eccentric and the 1.125-inch pin designed to penetrate only the cam sprocket. Because cam manufacturers offer different cam sprocket thicknesses, it gets confusing. The cam drive pin must penetrate the fuel-pump eccentric enough to turn the eccentric without interfering with the washer. Always use thread locker on the cam sprocket bolt and torque to proper specifications.

terry wrote:

MustangSteve wrote:

I agree with sal...  Why in the world are you running an electric fuel pump?  Mechanical ones are bulletproof. 

Not buying the story about no hole in the cam for a dowel.  Where did THAT cam come from?  Without the dowel, how does the timing chain turn the cam?  Maybe THAT is why it quit running...
Sounds like you just did not understand the differences between the requirements for a one piece vs a two-piece fuel pump eccentric.  (different length dowel, different eccentric, different timing chain sprocket)

I have always run the fuel filter between the frame rail and the fuel pump.  That way, the FUEL PUMP is also protected from any debris.  Holley carbs have a sintered bronze fuel filter that goes in the fuel inlet fitting.  If anything did get past the fuel pump, it would stop right there.  I wish I had kept track of all the Mustang miles I have driven over the past umpteen years.  That way I could tout  43gerzillion miles with never a fuel pump failure.   My pump will probably go out tonight just because of this. 

If it helps you any, I have a brand new Red Holley fuel pump I will sell cheap.  It has maybe five minutes run time on it as a low pressure pusher pump for the EFI pump I had on the car during my misguided EFI period.

Steve, that dowel doesnt hold the timing gear the key does!  The only purpose that dowel serves is to keep the eccentric from spinning.   I took the eccentric and the dowel off of my 289, if I remember correct the dowel was about 3/8 or 1/2" long.  The hole in the cam flange would only allow the dowel to go about half the length in.  I thought about drilling the hole deeper or cutting the dowel off but I was afraid of messing something up.
No I did not know the differences in two piece or 1 piece eccentrics.  and apparently no one else on this forum did either. I presented this problem to the forum and never got an answer so I moved forward.  Later in a discussion about this very problem, You told me there was an easy solution but you never revealed the solution.
This was the first engine I had ever put together and NO I did not have all the answers and yes I did make some mistakes.
I have a Holley fuel pump on my shelf that I bought and took back off because it was too noisey!
Not sure where my story got twisted around but my filter is BETWEEN the TANK and the PUMP AND I have a filter right at the carb.  The pump clearly states on it the warranty is voided if used without a filter

I  also misstated there was a hole in the cam just not a deep enough hole!!

Sal,  My electric fuel pump isnt there just because it looks trick its in front of the tank and cant be seen unless you crawl under the car

I have since found the answer to what to use.  Apparently the 289 cam has a deeper hole than the 302 does, so for a 302 you have to use the 2 piece eccentric that has a finger on the back that catches in the shallow hole instead of using a dowel.  Its not worth it to me to tear the front of this engine apart to go back to a mechanical fuel pump.


Fuel pump eccentrics are another situation to be very mindful of. Ford made two basic types: one-piece (right), and two-piece (left). The one-piece eccentric was used from 1962–1972 with a 1.375-inch cam drive pin. A two-piece eccentric came along in 1973 with a shorter 1.125-inch cam drive pin. Problems abound when you use the wrong pin. For fuel injected engines, there is no eccentric and the 1.125-inch pin designed to penetrate only the cam sprocket. Because cam manufacturers offer different cam sprocket thicknesses, it gets confusing. The cam drive pin must penetrate the fuel-pump eccentric enough to turn the eccentric without interfering with the washer. Always use thread locker on the cam sprocket bolt and torque to proper specifications.

There is no keyway or key on the camshaft.  The dowel sticks out of the cam and, in the case of a single piece eccentric, through the timing chain sprocket and through the eccentric.  In the case of a two piece eccentric, the dowel stops short of sticking entirely through the sprocket but the eccentric has a tab that fits into the hole in the sprocket.  There has to be a dowel or the sprocket will spin on the cam.

Yep.....don't blame you there.....too much trouble tearing the whole front off the engine and then prolly end up with an oil leak when all is "said-and-done".
So the electric pump just dead heads fuel to the regulator? No return line?
I've "heard" that's hard on those pumps even if they are designed that way. 
If under warantee I'd just gita nuthern like the one that quit!!
6sal6

I agree with not wanting to tear it down just to install the eccentric now.  Luckily I installed one on my 427, just in case.  If I had not, I would now be using the red Holley electric pump as well.  I wouldn't LIKE it, but I would be using it.