That's nice and clean! I want to go this route as well, keep posting pictures!!!

Triton wrote:

That's nice and clean! I want to go this route as well, keep posting pictures!!!

Agree thanks for the pic's , keep them coming..

Really nice work Rudi!

Thanks guys! looking forward to doing the R&R but I have to clean up a few things plus do the wiring. The unit needs a 70-80 amp fuse for the main power and a 1-2 amp for the electronics.
 From what I'm told the motor draws about 40 amps at hard full lock but at center hardly anything.  I also have to remove all of the original power steering components and install the manual drag link and tie rods.

jerseyjoe wrote:

Rudi wrote:

Thanks guys! looking forward to doing the R&R but I have to clean up a few things plus do the wiring. The unit needs a 70-80 amp fuse for the main power and a 1-2 amp for the electronics.
 From what I'm told the motor draws about 40 amps at hard full lock but at center hardly anything.  I also have to remove all of the original power steering components and install the manual drag link and tie rods.

I'm thinkn 200 amp alternator......jj

One of the 3-G alternators will more than handle the job. Mines a 130 amp.

Last edited by Rudi (1/04/2015 2:43 PM)

T. McG/393 wrote:

Great work Rudi. I wonder what would have to be done to the column-to-dash mounting bracket in a '66 to mount that column? Do you have a pic of the mounting bracket on the bottom of the dash? I have a '68 collapsable column in mine now, as can be seen on my web site link below this post.

 Thanks terry, here is  a picture of the 68 dash to column mount.
If I remember the earlier generation had a single strap holding the steering column in place. I have seen one of these in a 66 and the builder drilled and tapped a 1/4" socket head cap screw into the dash where the column tube mates to the dash. A hole in the column tube locates on the bolt head. not really enough to safely secure the tube from the torque of the Koyo unit. There has to be some additional bracing from the EPAS gear box to some of the dash or  brake/clutch pedal support.
 If you head over to Vintage Mustang forum there are some details of 66 installs under ,Best  $200 mod ever




 

Last edited by Rudi (1/04/2015 6:07 PM)

MustangSteve wrote:

Are you replacing the manual steering box with a quick ratio box to go along with the new power steering?  To me, the electric steering is fantastic but does require a gear box swap if the car has the slower ratio box that most manual steering cars came with.
Of course, with a do-it-yourself swap such as yours, you have plenty of bucks left over to buy a new steering box with a quicker ratio.  Someone paying $1,200 for a power steering conversion from a vendor typically does not want to hear that he also has to replace his steering box with a quick ratio unit.

Seems like the perfect setup for an early Mustang is a conversion such as you are building with a brand new Flaming River quick ratio box.  With all new steering components under the front end, I bet the car would drive really nice.  Keep us informed as to how it all comes out.

I replaced the O/E  steering box years ago with a quik ratio Flaming River unit. I have to remove the factory power steering system and see if the inner and outer tie rod ends will mate withe a factory drag link.
 This mod seemed to attract my attention even though I was perfectly happy with the O/E power steering that I completely rebuilt years ago.
 This should reduce the heat under the hood as well as shed a few pounds.
 The driving results will have to wait till the spring at which time I will be able to relate if  it was worth the effort.
 

bulletbirdman wrote:

Hey Rudi ain't your tach on the wrong side?

Nope, I'm ambidextrous! 

Rudi that is incredibly nice work.  Very impressive...thanks.

BB

Rudi wrote:

Now that the holidays are over I got a chance to get some more done on my EPAS build. Below the Equinox bottom tube seal modified for my lower tube. I made a couple of stand offs the make the gear case thru bolts more substantial. One for each side.  A stand off spacer for the upper center tube on the 68 column. It has a clearance notch for the wire cluster from the turn signal, horn etc.The center tube will also serve as a stop for the steering shaft so it wont pull out. The upper Koyo shaft was parted off in a lathe and I turned up a steel bushing to press inside it with the outer bushing bore the same diameter as the Mustang upper “D-D”shaft.  I drilled three holes for rosette welds as well as welding the steering lock slot in the Koyo top shaft.I drilled and reamed the bushing so that two 1/2” diameter plugs would seat against the flats on each side of the Mustang top shaft and provide some extra security to keep the shaft from spinning in the bushing. The plugs and shaft will be welded to the bushing as well.  The double d shaft from the 68 goes into a bushing on the splined lower part of the Koyo input shaft with a snug fit.  For me this did not keep it in place with enough friction to hold it in place so that for some unseen circumstance that could cause it to slip out.  There are only three small screws through a thin metal plate that actually holds the circlip located Mustang top bearing and and shaft in place. The lower Koyo shaft has splines and will float to find its own location according to the dimensions of the bushing to inner tube dimension. There is also a 1/8" nylon thrust washer between the adaptor bushing center tube at the slotted washer end.
 To lock the “DD” shaft in place I used two dog point set screws on either side of the adaptor bushing. A 1/4” flat bottomed hole 1/8” deep in the shaft  that the set screw goes into will lock it all together. I could have welded it all together but this way I’ll be able to dismantle it if the need ever arises.

  One final assembly and fitting into the car is next and then  a total disassembly  for bead blasting and paint prep are next on the list of things to do.

As we say in jersey...you are the bomb....nice work....jj

Thanks BB. I tend to go to extremes when I work on things, guess thats from my vocational background.
 The same final results can be had by going a different route as seen on the VMF forum web site.
 Many of the EPAS builds done there don't go into the amount of machining that I did. It can be done with readily available off the shelf components.
Looking at the kind of work I have done, any one serious about this mod for their cars should not be discouraged from doing this highly desirable power steering set up.
 There is more than one way to skin a cat!.
  Apologies to cat owners.