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I bought a couple rolls of copper nickel 3/16" brake line to redo all the line on my 65 FB. This is the line I used:
The problem with coiled line is that you have to straighten it. I didn't want to buy a straightener or spend a lot of time making one, so I reasoned that the straighteners that use rollers could be replicated a little simpler. Here's what I came up with:
It's just two blocks of oak with a 3/16" hole drilled down the center. To ensure a straight hole, I first slightly grooved each block on my table saw, then clamped them together and drilled out the groove. To use it, I waxed the groove and just gripped the two blocks together and slid it up and down the line as I uncoiled it:
It works a little better pulling, but a few strokes and the line comes out straight. The copper nickel line is very easy to use, doesn't kink easily, flares easily, and can be worked with a minimum of tools. As far as I can tell, it's easier than steel line in all respects. In fact, this is all I used to do the line on my rear axle:
And here's the result:
I highly recommend copper nickel brake line.
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Sweet! Looks alot better than the green stuff that is the norm now at local auto parts stores.
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Nice little simple tool. I like your idea on the grooves to get the hole straight. Did you need to file out the edges so they curve in a bit?
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I used the same stuff. One roll would have been just enough if I didn't have to redo one of my M/C to distribution block lines. It easily polishes up with an aluminum polish and then can be clear coated. I considered using the same stuff in 3/8's for the fuel line , but I am also considering stainless for the fuel line.
Last edited by DBROWN (12/15/2014 9:33 AM)
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wsinsle wrote:
Nice little simple tool. I like your idea on the grooves to get the hole straight. Did you need to file out the edges so they curve in a bit?
Yes, I eased the entry and exit holes on the wood blocks and also waxed the grooves a bit. When I do the long line from the front to the back, I'm going to clamp one end in a vice and stretch it out as I go to help keep it straight.
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DBROWN wrote:
I used the same stuff. One roll would have been just enough if I didn't have to redo one of my M/C to distribution block lines. It easily polishes up with an aluminum polish and then can be clear coated. I considered using the same stuff in 3/8's for the fuel line , but I am also considering stainless for the fuel line.
I ordered a 25' roll of 3/8" stainless to do my fuel line. I figure it should be enough for the tank to the pump and then the pump to the carb. I didn't really consider using the copper-nickel stuff for fuel line. I got a good deal on the stainless and went w/ that. I have the original lines to use as patterns, so it should be fairly easy. I'm going to try the same wooden block approach for straightening the line. WIll post the results. I didn't get any feedback on my fuel line post, so I'm still not sure whether to use the original routing for the 65 or maybe modify it.
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Did the brake lines in the engine compartment today, using the copper-nicel line:
The MC is from a Ranger, w/ the Mustang 6 cylinder tank. I used a 1" socket to coil the lines exiting the MC, which shows how pliable the copper nickel is:
Sorry but I can't figure out how to rotate the picture. The rear line is plumed into an old Kelsey Hayes proportioning valve I've had for about 25 years. Very happy with the copper nickel brake line and kinda like the color - it's a nice contract to all the silver/chrome.
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JKordzi, Your craftsmanship is showing.
Last edited by bulletbirdman (12/23/2014 8:41 AM)
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Looks good, but it also looks like you forgot to connect one of the lines:
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Hakan wrote:
Looks good, but it also looks like you forgot to connect one of the lines:
Yeah, that's the old rear line and it's just there so I can see how close it is to the proportioning valve. I haven't replaced it yet.
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bulletbirdman wrote:
JKordzi, Your craftsmanship is showing.
Thanks - I get a lot of inspiration from the posts on this forum.
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