I knew someone had to make properly sized bullet connectors.  I've opened up the crimp on ones to get a tigth fit, removed the plastic from the crimp part, soldered the wire in and filled the hollow end with solder and shrink wrapped the other end to get a proper fit.  This is a much better solution that will save a lot of time.  Thanks for posting that info!

That's what I mean, can I just transfer the trigger so I don't have to Mess with timing and advance?

GP 350 wrote:

Since I'm in the middle of rewiring the whole car, I am thinking of doing this conversion. The problem is that currently I am running a stock distributor that I had the advance re curved for my motor. It also has the pertronics 2 and runs well as far as I'm concerned. Can I transfer the guts from a dura spark to my current distributor? Or do I need to switch out the whole thing?

 
Just wondering why change to Dura Spark if you already have electronic ignition. I don't think there is any gain unless you just want to keep it all Ford.

GP 350 wrote:

Just thinking it through while I'm at it, I'm not sure that I will though. I like the idea of being able to get the parts easily, and I was wondering if it might be a better set up with some small gains?

I don't have any experience w/ it yet since my car isn't a runner yet, so hopefully others will chime in.  From what I've read, the Duraspark system works well, at least under 6000 rpms.  My goal was as you noted - having a setup that can be easily repaired w/ a trip to any parts store.  The other thing I like about it is that the pickup is just a trigger so if it does turn out that it has issues above 6000 rpms, I can easily replace the module with something else.
 

jkordzi wrote:

GP 350 wrote:

Just thinking it through while I'm at it, I'm not sure that I will though. I like the idea of being able to get the parts easily, and I was wondering if it might be a better set up with some small gains?

I don't have any experience w/ it yet since my car isn't a runner yet, so hopefully others will chime in.  From what I've read, the Duraspark system works well, at least under 6000 rpms.  My goal was as you noted - having a setup that can be easily repaired w/ a trip to any parts store.  The other thing I like about it is that the pickup is just a trigger so if it does turn out that it has issues above 6000 rpms, I can easily replace the module with something else.
 

 
I was just wondering why change. I went with the Dura Spark for the same reason you guys stated. Ease to get parts. I figured I could keep a spare box on hand for about $30. Cheer than a spare Pentronix for $80.

hmartin, did you do yours with or with out the resister wire?

jkordzi wrote:

hmartin025 wrote:

On my 65 289 the Duraspark gave better idle and easier start than pertronics...And using small dist cap too.
Just Sayin
Howard

Do you notice any performance issues like breaking up at higher rpms?
 

No I haven’t! However doubt it’s been over 4500 revs! Mostly drive conservatively. Have to challenge a ricer occasionally?

Little Chevy sounds to me you got the what you have connected with the pink resister wire crossed with the wire going to the 'S' terminal on the solenoid.this would make the car start and run when the key is in the 'run' position.

Ok, you cut the pink wire short and connected a red wire to it. You connected the red wire near the ignition switch, not the fire wall, and ran it to the + side of the coil. Now this red is wire something you added correct, it's not some existing wire on the car you connected to. (Sorry I have to ask these questions to make sure were all on the same page) Now there is a brown wire on the small right hand terminal on the solenoid. This brown wire can be disconnected and taped up, it is not needed because you cut out most of your pink resister wire. If by any chance this brown wire is connected to the small left hand terminal that’s your problem. Now the small left hand terminal on the solenoid should have a RED/blue wire connected to it and you connected the white wire to it. If all this is correct I would try removing the white wire from the solenoid and see if that make a difference. It is just used to retard the timing at start, just a thought it may be getting shorted out somewhere. All these solenoid connections are based on your solenoid being right side up. LOL
 

Sounds to me you got it all wired right, if the starter is staying engauged maybe the solenoid is sticking.