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1/19/2016 9:37 AM  #1

Brand new Forum added for Paint & Body discussions and questions.

Post any paint and body related questions in this forum.  You can still post them in the TECH forum and I will transfer them here after the discourse has tapered off, so we do not lose the information.

PLEASE START A NEW TOPIC within the forum rather than replying to this message.

Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.

1/19/2016 10:37 PM  #2

Re: Brand new Forum added for Paint & Body discussions and questions.

Wow.  I can't believe it.  I'm posting the very first question in the new forum!  Well here goes.  I'm currently doing the body work on my 65 and will be painting it in my shop.  I wanted to paint it silver - in particular Porsche GT silver.  I have painted a number of cars before back when acrylic lacquer was still widely available.  Many of these cars were painted under less than ideal conditions, with no special worry about airborne dust, because I always finished the job with a wet sand and buff, not to mention that any more serious problems could be simply sanded out and reshot in about an hour.  However, I'm not sure I can take the same approach with metallic silver.  I've read about how silver can be tricky, especially when doing basecoat/clearcoat due to the re-coat time window.  Metallics in general seems like a one shot deal with little chance of fixing problems, as it doesn't seem like you can do any sanding without a major repaint.  Single stage, on the other hand seems to be more forgiving, and more like painting lacquer in that you can cut and buff it.  I've also seen a LOT of clear coat failures.  In fact, now that I'm looking for it, it seems like I see clear coat failures every day - most on factory paint jobs.  My son's own 2012 car has a clear coat failure.  So after much rambling, my question is to start this forum off with the age old debate: which is better, basecoat/clearcoat or single stage?  In particular, If you're not going with a metallic, why not just go single stage?

Cheap, Fast, Good:  Pick Any Two

1/20/2016 12:14 AM  #3

Re: Brand new Forum added for Paint & Body discussions and questions.

You can do amazing blends with mettalic base costs.  The best way is scuff it prep, it's basically a pumic inriched wash solution. First after the obvious body work has been completed. And you have spot primed the area you'll need to wash the fender with a gray scuff pad and use some panel prep. It's best to go out Id say about 16" to get a good blend if not more.  After preping the panel wash off solution and dry off you panel. You then will need to tack off the panel with a tack rag. just barely graze the panel and act like your dusting it off. You'll then need to use base clear is what I know it by. It's similar to a clear coat. What it does is if you have any flaws you don't quite see it the base will drift and lay in these areas and look like crap after you clear it. So the clear sealer will fill in minor flaw so the paint won't. To apply the clear sealer so a light wet piss coat. Look at the panel and see if it's wet. Since you said you have sprayed you should know what your medium and wet coats are. After the clear sealer has flashed you then can proceed to using your base coat. Do a wet coat over the area that was repaired. I start where I want my major part of the blend to stop. So I work backwards lol. So after spraying and extending about 6" on each side of the repair again doing a wet coat, now you want to cut the air pressure about in half is usually about right. Now you need to do a light piss coat on top of the area and extending past. If the blend was done right some people in the right conditions can make a paint that's 4 shades off be able to blend! After your base has now flashed you can now clear your panel. All clears that I have ever used are applied in wet coats. Usually 2 coats of clear on production is what's done. And usually 3 or more are done on restoration and custom work usually or more but then you'll want to check mil thickness prior. If the mil thickness exceeds about 8mils thick you should DA the car before spraying it! If you don't your car will be more prone to chiping off.  Hopefully this post is helpful. Pm me if you have questions

Product reference note I haven't use these products except scotch brites. You can use these as well as many products out there. I have how ever gone threw SPI with great results just like many others and they have some great autobody products. Another good place to go to especially for filler and glaze is LKQ Keystone Automotive. They sell rebadged top line rage body filler and evercoat glaze for a fraction of any where else.


1/20/2016 12:30 AM  #4

Re: Brand new Forum added for Paint & Body discussions and questions.

This shows a fair technique on blending. I only noticed one small flaw flaw that he did at the end. Do not flick your wrist or in other words do the sissy. This will make you go from a proper 6-8" away to 10-12" you'll get what's called a ringer. You'll see it wondering why but not now though. also go off the TDS sheet paints clear sealers some times change from manufacture. Usually 1.3 for solvent base 1.4 for water borne paint 1.4 or bigger for primers 2.0 usually work for flakes.


1/20/2016 7:57 AM  #5

Re: Brand new Forum added for Paint & Body discussions and questions.

My mistake - I should have said I'm painting the entire car, so I'm not blending paint.  At this point, I've done all the panel alignment, body work, and ensured all the gaps are good. I'm at the point of sanding the entire car, and plan on taking it down to bare metal.  I've already got my primer (TAMCO 5311 -

Cheap, Fast, Good:  Pick Any Two

1/20/2016 9:17 AM  #6

Re: Brand new Forum added for Paint & Body discussions and questions.

I don't think one type of paint job is better than the other. If you have a certain level of confidence that you can get the finish you are after ,that will tell you which way to go. Hope this doesn't sound stupid.


1/20/2016 10:48 AM  #7

Re: Brand new Forum added for Paint & Body discussions and questions.

I depends on the color that will depict on its support help threw the jobber as well as how it covers. Also with cheep paint it uses 10 year old technology. As well as has less binders and less pigments.

Last edited by True74yamaha (1/20/2016 12:33 PM)


1/20/2016 5:29 PM  #8

Re: Brand new Forum added for Paint & Body discussions and questions.

My experience based on real world/no spray booth conditions.

Modern paints are very forgiving.  Just shoot it after proper surface prep.  My method to paint Cara's silver blue coupe was this:  I put the base color on, then waited an hour and did a tack coat, then immediately a heavy wet coat of clear.  Let that dry for a day and block sanded it with 400 wet.  Then I shot one wet coat of clear.  Most of the car required ZERO color sanding or buffing.

By doing it that way, the clear sets up quickly on that first wet coat, minimizing the possibility of bug/lint/beach umbrellas/small children, etc being trapped in the clearcoat.  Then, the wet sand with 400 grit eliminates any of that stuff that DID manage to settle into the clear.  Then the final wet coat after sanding goes on so quickly and dries so fast that virtually nothing gets embedded in it.  This way worked very well.  Most of the car was smoother than most new car paint jobs from the factory.

When most people clearcoat a car, they tend to pile on coat after coat until it is really thick. "SHOOT UNTIL YOU RUN OUT OF PAINT" syndrome.  In non-controlled conditions, that just continuously buries any contaminants into the clearcoat, making them impossible to ever get out.

Spraying in a controlled environment like a paint booth I am sure can be done totally differently, but I have never sprayed a car in a paintbooth.

My fastback was done in the "shoot until you run out" method and took a lot of wet sanding and buffing to get it perfect.  Still good enough for the centerfold of Mustang Monthly Magazine, though!  It was the first metallic paint job I ever did, and had the same fears you have.  Main thing with metallic is to get back far enough to never get a real WET spot in the color.  Don't worry it looks like sandpaper.  The clearcoat will take care of that for you. 

And be sure to run a ground strap to the car.  All that moving particulate creates a heck of alot of static electricity that attracts dust.

And one good thing I learned painting silver cars... When a bee lands in wet paint, quit spraying...  You cannot believe how far they can drag their little butt around before they die or the paint sets up.

Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
     Thread Starter

1/20/2016 6:22 PM  #9

Re: Brand new Forum added for Paint & Body discussions and questions.

Also I dunno the budget on the paint but RM squirts wells and it orientates the mettalics very well. Just make sure you stay a continuous 6-8" away. Also when spraying don't go over the wheel wells go threw them. You don't want to go over the arch. When you do and you do the rest of the panel straight most people will always get a run that way.


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