it's a 1992 T5 from a 4 cyl mustang

My first thought is the pilot bearing diameter? Otherwise double check input shaft length.

I'll try to take some measurements when I get back in town (flying to Gary, Indiana today for work). I can tell the input shaft fits into the pilot bearing, I put a small amount of assembly lube in the end of the input shaft and can see where the pilot bearing slid over the end of the input shaft. 

I had some issue with the throwout bearing not staying in place, but i was able to move the clutch fork back and forth and the throwout bearing didn't seem to be stuck. 

Michael H. wrote:

I used an adapter plate too, but I was installing a T-5 behind a 289 instead of a 200.  Have you tried bolting the adapter plate and bellhousing to the T-5 and then installing it all as one unit?  That's how I installed mine. 

that's how I decided to try and proceed, and how I discovered the transmission-to-adapter bolts provided with the adapter are too long. 

And of course, that's when the oil started leaking. 

TKOPerformance wrote:

jptucker101 wrote:

it's a 1992 T5 from a 4 cyl mustang

You've got some kind of a mismatch because of this I think.  The V8 and 4 cylinder T5s are a bit different.  Did the adapter say to use a 4 cylinder T5, or specify WC vs. NWC?  All the 4 cylinder T5s are NWC.  The pilot bearing is different for the 4 cylinder T5 (smaller ID).  I would verify that you have the correct pilot bearing.  Then bolt up the bellhousing and adapter and measure from the bottom of the pilot bearing bore to the face of the adapter.  Then measure the input shaft from the rear face of the trans to the tip of the input shaft.  See what those measurements tell you.  Something seems off. 
 

The adapter didn't specify, it just stated T5 adapter. But I'm using the exact procedure and parts from this link:
https://fordsix.com//viewtopic.php?f=76&t=50854

I'll plan to take some measurements later this week and see what I come up with, though. 

 

Another trick that I have used several times when I couldn't get a manual transmission to seat fully is to put the transmission in any gear and rotate the output shaft slightly back and forth... this causes the input shaft to rotate slightly back and forth.  Sometimes you'll have splines that aren't quite aligned and this will allow them to slip into place.

BillyC wrote:

I did the swap on a 66/289 and used the 92 bell housing but I did learn some things that might help you. I bought a complete fastener kit from Rosehill Performance. It saved me a ton of time searching for bolts, etc. Another thing I do, learned this a long time ago, since I don't have a lift and seldom have an assistant I thread two pieces of all thread into the top two trans mount holes in the bell housing. Make them long enough that the input shaft is barely in the bell when the all thread starts in the trans. That way you are not dealing with the weight of the trans while trying to line things up. And finally if on the outside chance that you can't get all of your questions answered here, I'ld be real surprised if you don't, contact Bruce at Modern Driveline. Good luck.

I've got a couple sets of 6" long bolts with the heads cut off for this purpose.  I grind a taper on the outboard end to make getting the trans on them easier, and also cut a slot in the end in case they bind I can use a big flathead screwdriver to back them out. 

IF you have  an engine hoist and can get the car up high enough......put the engine/trans in together. By fitting it all up on the floor/bench before install....you can get everything mated up and working before the hassle of  fighting it under the car.
Don't be too "down-on-yourself"...I have more than several "war storys" concerning T-5 install in 66 Mustang.
How bout the time  I finally got everything in place and was sliding the T-5 home into the pilot bearing when..........the car rolled off the stands and I was under the car. I slide out "just-in-time" as the car rolled across the driveway and backed into a tree. When the car fell down off of the stands it snapped the input shaft (of the T-5) off FLUSH with the pilot bearing! I had to use a carbine Christmas tree burr to grind the piece out of the pilot bearing!  Soooo don't talk to me about having problems installing a T-5!
One of several!!
Hang in there
6sally6 

First thing to do is remove the adapter from the bellhousing and test fit it to the front of the transmission. Then test fit the bell to that assembly.  Then, slide the clutch disc onto the tranny input shaft to make sure the splines engage properly. If it all fits, and the throwout bearing and release arm fits properly into the tranny/bellhousing assembly, and the throwout bearng slides smoothly on the tranny bearing retainer tube, then you can install the assembly to the engine.
The clutch splines can sometimes be difficult to engage the input shaft. If you have the Ranger diaphragm clutch and used the proper alignment dowel, and you are certain you have the right crank bearing, it should all go together.
When building a custom system such as this, you need to verify prior to final assembly that every mating part will actually mate where it belongs.

Somewhat related:
One trick I have used to make it travel that last 1/2” is to have someone push the clutch pedal to the floor as you push that last 1/2”. But be darned sure the pilot shaft is already in the clutch before you do it or the disc will drop down. That only works if the bell and adapter are already bolted to the block, though. It allows the disc to freely rotate and engage the shaft splines.

The only dimensional difference on a 4 cyl T5 is a smaller input shaft diameter where it fits into the pilot bearing or bushing.

Any chance your pressure plate is hitting. When I put the T5 in my car I first tried to use a pressure plate (3 finger type I think) that came with the car and it would not let me get the bellhousing all the way tight. I tried a diaphragm style and that worked. I remember I compared them and one was about a half inch thinner than the other.