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Swap Meet » WANTED - Stock Automatic Shifter » 10/02/2023 11:21 AM

Mach1_Ron
Replies: 1

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For a 1970 Mustang. Please let me know if you have one somewhere.

Show Your Mustang Pictures and History » New Member » 5/16/2017 6:07 AM

Mach1_Ron
Replies: 28

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Been There, Done That, Got the T-Shirt.....

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Coyote » 4/07/2017 6:34 AM

Mach1_Ron
Replies: 23

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Go over to
http://www.pro-touring.com
and look up a guy names CrestonWizard. He has done this and can tell you whatever you need to know about it.;

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 1968 Power steering RAM » 3/20/2017 11:09 AM

Mach1_Ron
Replies: 14

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HAVEaSigAR wrote:

another slightly condescending response posting a link that doesn't work. Why?

Link works fine for me... And I didn't mean anything by the again statement

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 1968 mustang control valve install on drag ,center link » 2/27/2017 2:01 PM

Mach1_Ron
Replies: 4

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mustang stu wrote:

Dear Mach1 Ron, Thank you for the good information, I contacted randy from stangerssite.com as you
said he is very knowledgeable.He emailed me the measurements and measuring points,I was able to
adjust the control valve to the center link in about 3 minutes. Randy explained everything very clearly
making easy for me to adjust the valve to the link. Thank You Mach1 Ron and Thank You Randy
mustang stu

 Glad he could help. I learned more about Factory Power Assist steering from him than I probably need to know. But my Power Assisted steering is working terrific.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Vibration Problem at 70mph...Help me interpret these measurements » 2/22/2017 12:09 PM

Mach1_Ron
Replies: 26

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I'll throw in my 2 cents.... I have ran the 2 degree shims when I first put in the 5 speed, changing from a Top-loader. Fixed the vibration issue, however I was running 51/2 leaf reverse eye springs and they didn't move hardly at all. That being said, I recently did some changing and am now running the 41/2 mid eye springs, and had to take the shims out... Remember for stockish type leafs, you'll get about 2 degrees roll up upon acceleration and driving. You can also have too much angle like I think mine ended up being before I took the shims out. I'd try taking out the 2 degree shims and see if the vibration gets Worse or Better and go from there. I know it's a PITA, but I've been there and have been chasing this last deal for a couple of months myself. 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 68 power steering into 67 manual steering mustang » 1/05/2017 7:37 AM

Mach1_Ron
Replies: 4

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mustang stu wrote:

 I'm thinking I will get a
control valve,pump,slave cylinder, 4 hoses and idler arm. These parts are 49 years old will probably  leak
and cause me problems if not replaced.

When you go to get this stuff, check out http://www.stangerssite.com/
He really knows mustang power steering. He rebuilt ALL of my stuff when I put it back on last year. No issues at all. Car steers like a dream, after having manual steering for several years. Glad I went back.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Bellhousing , adapter plate and t5 » 12/12/2016 7:27 AM

Mach1_Ron
Replies: 12

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TimC wrote:

There are a couple of ways to perform a T5 swap.

If you use the early bell housing and clutch fork, you can keep your stock clutch pedal linkage, with a minor modification to the bell housing to attach the adapter plate.
There is also a clutch fork fulcrum adapter kit available from other vendors, which allows you to use your 66 clutch fork on the 1980's Mustang bell, and use the original clutch pedal linkage

Both the 6 bolt  early bell and the 1980's fox bell will bolt up to the 289 & 302/5.0 blocks

I have a Late Model Bell housing with this Adapter to keep your Z-Bar. Let me know if you are interested, we can work something out.
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Hey fellas.............Here's a little "pick-me-up"..... » 12/07/2016 12:48 PM

Mach1_Ron
Replies: 18

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Hornman wrote:

Well Sal, that is the LA River and you forgot Grease, Adam 12, and every other cop show set in LA.

And of course the Favorite Mustang Movie..... Gone in 60 Seconds.....Well, a fav of mine anyway....

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Who is going to the Fairview show Saturday 11/19? » 11/17/2016 7:12 AM

Mach1_Ron
Replies: 29

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I'll be at the Show, but unfortunately, Not Breakfast.....

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » lower control arm with strut rod = strut arm . pros/ cons » 11/08/2016 7:26 AM

Mach1_Ron
Replies: 29

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MS wrote:

If one were to NEED the wedge kit because the UCAs were moved more than 1", it would make more sense and cost a ton less to just pie cut the UCA right inboard of the balljoint, bend the end of the UCA downward and then reweld it and add some strengtheners.  It accomplishes exactly the same thing but with zero cost.  Also, bolts don't like being run through angled wedges.  It just gives more places for something to come loose.  Angling the UCA outboard end is free if you can weld.

I have the 1 3/4" drop on the Mach, been that way for 20 years and I have been running the Negative Wedge Kit as well. Never hurt my tires, Alignment is no problem, I have taken the stuff apart several times for spring swaps and such. Always bolts back together just fine...nothing has ever come loose. That's just my $.02

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 4 Air Conditioning options, any changes since the 2014 discussion? » 10/27/2016 6:16 AM

Mach1_Ron
Replies: 7

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MS wrote:

You definitely want one that replaces the old heater box completely. That way, you get dehumidified defrost for the windshield.  I have Vintage Air and it has worked flawlessly.

X2 on Vintage Air. Works Great and their Customer Service is Awesome.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » finally my fastback is on the lifter » 9/14/2016 6:37 AM

Mach1_Ron
Replies: 69

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Also depends on your Tire size, as I have 275x40x17's in the back of the Mach and run a 3.89:1 gear with a T5. At 70MPH it is only revving 1900 RPM.... So take the Tire circumference in consideration also. BTW, I also run a Detroit Locker and LOVE It....

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Good vibrations » 8/23/2016 1:53 PM

Mach1_Ron
Replies: 18

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boomyal wrote:

Steve, post a link to the gauge you used.

Home Depot sells a nice Digital one...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-10-in-Multi-Function-Standard-Digital-Level-THD9403/205999357

Worked for me.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Could I please see some pics on how you guy run heater hoses » 7/27/2016 7:10 AM

Mach1_Ron
Replies: 40

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Kristang wrote:

BobE wrote:

Bullet Bob wrote:


What are you doing for a ground on the battery?  Corky had a problem until we added a length of #2 from the batt. neg. to the transmission.  Just can't have too solid of a ground.

Nuther reason I dislike batteries in the trunk.  Just sayin'

BB

I agree w/BB, you should run the ground cable from the battery directly to the engine.  Relying on the body/frame for the electrical "return" is not a good idea due to excessive current draw of the starter has on the battery and the resultant voltage drop, copper (or aluminum) is a much better electrical conductor than steel. 
I had this problem years ago with a trunk battery installation and it was solved by adding the ground cable directly to the engine.
Although I have my battery in the front, I still run the ground from the battery directly to the starter.  As indicated in other posts you also need to ground the engine to the body to avoid other electrical issues.
 

Thanks BobE.  It certainly cannot hurt to try running the battery ground back up to the engine.  I will give it a go, especially since you indicated having a similar experience.  Now I know what I'm doing with all the left over ground cable I have!  Thanks for the suggestions.  I will update here when I get it done and can give it a test.
 

I do agree about having good and even multiple grounds, however my battery is in the trunk and the Ground cable from it goes to the frame... I also have Frame to Engine Block, which is essentially Battery to Engine Block. I used 00 Welding cable for these ground cables and Do Not have any cranking issues, Hot, Warm or Cold. I used to have weird issues and they ALL seemed to get taken care of with Good Grounds.
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Could I please see some pics on how you guy run heater hoses » 7/25/2016 11:35 AM

Mach1_Ron
Replies: 40

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Depending on what MSD Box he's running, he can retard the timing from it when starting also....

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Could I please see some pics on how you guy run heater hoses » 7/13/2016 7:03 AM

Mach1_Ron
Replies: 40

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Hard to get the one going to the Thermostat housing made up in the coil stuff...

Board footera


REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on.