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FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » How many gallons in a 16 gallon tank? (Part 2) » Yesterday 1:12 PM

MS
Replies: 4

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Zero ohms means fully grounded. The gauge should read full.

Any measure of ohms above zero means it is “less grounded” and the gauge should read closer to empty.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Mustang Steve. Can we talk about your fastback today? » Yesterday 9:10 AM

MS
Replies: 17

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I am using Foxbody mounts st rear of the mufflers and 2007 Mustang rear tailpipe mounts.  Both pretty soft.   All have been changed THREE TIMES along with 2” system, 2-1/4” system and two different 2-1/2” systems with zero change in the vibe.  I do not believe it has anything to do with exhaust.  The last attempt was to remove the h-pipe and install two flexible 8” long sections.  Zero change.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Whats your thoughts on adding a axle housing drain plug? » Yesterday 9:02 AM

MS
Replies: 15

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Steve69, I have better pics of the brake lines if you need them.  Or, check out my virtual bash pictures on the BASH forum.  I documented most details like that in a bunch of pictures, so they would be readily available for this type thing.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Sonny and Cher Mustangs » 11/25/2020 10:10 PM

MS
Replies: 5

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Those cars were designed and built BEFORE Mustangs were considered classics, so they had no appreciation of the damage being done.  As a kid, I had the 1/24th scale models of those and thought they were really cool. Now, not so much!!!   Cher was better looking back then, as well.   So, everything is relative...

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » MPG - What are you guys getting? » 11/25/2020 10:04 PM

MS
Replies: 11

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I think you are quoting some VERY optimistic numbers.  A non-overdrive tranny just can’t do that from what I have experienced.

My 66 with aluminum 427 and five speed with 3.70 rear gets 19 on the highway cruising 74 mph and about ten running around in the Texas hill country where I live.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Off topic » 11/25/2020 10:00 PM

MS
Replies: 8

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I have tried to contact him by phone. No reply.  Hoping he is ok. Will keep trying.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Mustang Steve. Can we talk about your fastback today? » 11/25/2020 9:57 PM

MS
Replies: 17

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Greg B wrote:

All the same, it's probably time somebody redesigned that front hub.   If they do, you will have one more thing to change out.  I have a set of v8 spindles on my shelf with drum brakes still on them that came off that old rusty coupe I once had.  Both have big counterweights on the drum.  I thought about pulling one off yesterday just to see if it was directly over the notch.

And I know this whole thing seems a bit out in left field, but since the notch is in both sides, and the newer rotors and tires are balanced, wouldn't that make the imbalance in both hubs, and attached rotating masses relatively equal on both sides?   There is your tuning fork... kind of like an exhaust drone.

 
Note that six cylinder drum hubs are not even symmetrical.  I think that notch had more to do with controlling warpage from thermal expansion cycles than balance. It is so close to center, and only rotating about 800 rpm that I doubt it was measurable.

I will be exploring the removal of interior quarter panels that have heavy speakers in them as my next attempt to find the problem.  Just need an appropriate round-tuit to get started. Those panels have never changed since 1992. Only thing not changed.  Vibe is same before and after subframe connectors.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » remove fuel pump eccentric dowel pin on camshaft » 11/25/2020 9:49 PM

MS
Replies: 12

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The dowel’s main job is to connect the camshaft to the timing chain sprocket so they rotate in unison.  Secondary function is to drive the fuel pump eccentric. Two different length dowels were used depending on whether it had a one piece eccentric (longer dowel) or a two piece eccentric (shorter dowel).  Early efi engines had just the center piece of the two piece eccentric, which will fail rapidly if you try to drive a fuel pump with it.  Then the eccentric went away and an oil slinger was installed.  All of the options required a dowel pin.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Classic Vehicles and Reliability » 11/24/2020 6:02 PM

MS
Replies: 26

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Steve69 wrote:

https://i.ibb.co/tYvzrhN/02-25-2011-10-39-44-PM.jpg

Steve69, my first BRAND NEW CAR was a 1979 COBRA Mustang with a 2.3L turbo. 
Your pic brought back memories!

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » remove fuel pump eccentric dowel pin on camshaft » 11/24/2020 5:57 PM

MS
Replies: 12

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Cut a 3/8” bolt 1” long by cutting it under the head.  Protect all cam lobes and bearing surfaces with masking tape or something adequate to protect from weld splatter. 

Weld the bolt to the stud, so as to make the stud longer.  Place a 3/8 drive socket or a steel tube over the bolt threads, leaving about 3/8” threads exposed.  Place a washer and nut on the bolt.  Tighten the nut until it pulls out the stud. 

To install the new stud, freeze it, then drive it in place with a small hammer.

And quit screwing around with electric fuel pumps!!!!

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Mustang Steve. Can we talk about your fastback today? » 11/24/2020 5:50 PM

MS
Replies: 17

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That went off the rails quickly. 
Every single part (yes, every part) has been replaced at least three times

It is not s vibration, but rather a harmonic above 74mph.   You don’t feel it.   You hear it.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 78 granada 302, and a T5 » 11/23/2020 9:03 AM

MS
Replies: 12

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Texas! wrote:

To the best of my knowledge there are only 2 different starters ever used on the SBF. There is the short nose with the drive gear that is recessed inside the case and the long nose with the drive gear exposed. The short nose starter is used with the 164 tooth flywheel and is called the "manual" starter in the parts stores' computers. The long nose starter is used with the 157 tooth flywheel, the 157 tooth flexplate and the 164 tooth flexplate and is called the "automatic" starter in the computers.
Both versions of the starter were originally direct drive. Newer versions are PMGR but they still have the same long or short nose and will interchange with the direct drive.
I have an ancient Lakewood scattershield on the 302 in my '65 and it requires the larger 164 tooth flywheel. I am using a short nose PMGR starter off of a 90's Bronco with a 351W and manual transmission.
 

 
Partially correct.

When the 5.0 came out, Ford repositioned the ring gear so all starters are same. Basically the same design as all earlier automatic starters then fits the automatics or the manual transmissions.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Classic Vehicles and Reliability » 11/22/2020 10:00 PM

MS
Replies: 26

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josh-kebob wrote:

I always carry tools no matter what vehicle I drive on long trips. Prefer to rely on myself when sumptin breaks. Limped into an O'Reilly's in Cuba, MO one evening. F150 fuel pump gave up the ghost. Changed in the parking lot and was on my way. The mustang has extra fuses, tail light bulbs and a quart of oil along for the ride.

Mr Tim and I stopped at that same Cuba, Missouri OReilly to buy a battery and rewire the alternator on the 68 convertible I was bringing home to Dallas from Illinois for my friend, Doug!  Small world.  See the article on the website about bringing that car home.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » 78 granada 302, and a T5 » 11/22/2020 11:02 AM

MS
Replies: 12

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Old 289/302, including your 1978 version used 10” clutch and had 28 oz.  5.0 used 10.5”.

To use the 10.5” clutch, you need 157 tooth, 28 oz. flywheel for 10.5” diaphragm clutch and automatic starter from a classic or any starter from a 5.0.  Be sure to use the correct block plate for the 5.0 with T5.  Best flywheel is Ford Racing billet in that configuration.

Or, you can use a stock 65-78 flywheel having 157 teeth and a 10” diaphragm clutch and utilize the old starter for a manual transmission. Use the 5.0/T5 block plate.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Classic Vehicles and Reliability » 11/22/2020 10:55 AM

MS
Replies: 26

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I carry minimal tools on trips.  I figure that, if I take tools, I am planning on working on something. I do not plan to have to work on my car during a trip.

My theory is to do my best when putting it together, test everything, then go for it. The only trouble on the road I have ever had was a bad battery. 

The ones I see on the side of the road are typically (but not always) from poor workmanship. Like a wire that magically came undone or got against a hot manifold and shorted, or a hose routed too close to sharp edges or hot exhaust.  Or a bolt that mysteriously fell out. 

No Mustang ever stopped running because it had a carb on it. Nor has one ever quit running because it had EFI on it.  It quit because somebody didn’t do something right.  So, in most cases, failures are caused by human error, not mechanical parts.  So, take your time, assemble it the best you can, test it out, then head to the bash.  Or whatever your life’s dream of a road trip may be.

Everyone will help out if you DO have a problem on the road.  But, it is your responsibility to do your best effort to NOT have a problem on the road.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Electronic C-4.... » 11/21/2020 10:10 AM

MS
Replies: 20

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I like that, Bullet.  Now I know how to modify the one in my truck! 

This has to be one of the biggest benefits of this forum.  Between tips like that and garage points, we can make anything run better than new.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Carburetors - What is your favorite brand and why » 11/20/2020 9:50 PM

MS
Replies: 25

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My Holley is actually a Quick Fuel version. It has adjustable vacuum advance with the turn of a screw. Big improvement over Holley originals that require a spring change.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Do'in a little spruc'in up on the old hot rod and............. » 11/20/2020 12:21 PM

MS
Replies: 16

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Bob, the Nordans are quite easily distinguished from an original bumper.  The Nordans are better formed, have smoother edges and fit better than the originals.
I still have my rear one.  The front one died during the great crash of ‘09.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Carburetors - What is your favorite brand and why » 11/20/2020 12:19 PM

MS
Replies: 25

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I like Holley.
Probably the biggest reason is nostalgia.  They came on every real muscle car with very few exceptions.  I am willing to go through a little extra pain to have “the look”.
It has to have the cathedral type bowls, too. None of that single inlet stuff.

Once dialed in, they make great power and drivability.

Edelbrock makes a great carb, no doubt, but they look like they belong on a Chevy.  I have one on my truck, just because it was a great deal on a used working carb.  But it looks like it is missing half the carb.  Looking for 3x2 setup to replace it eventually.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Cobra hydroboost with Mustang Steve T5 cable conversion??? » 11/17/2020 10:26 AM

MS
Replies: 50

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You can install a longer pedal and mount the pedal pivot higher up if you need a lesser ratio.  Like the 67 power brake cars and all Mustangs after 1978.

Thanks for the pics showing the angle of the plate.  I am guessing the pic I saw of yours with the master cylinder pointing down must have been prior to tightening the studs. 

One other challenge I ran into was the brake pedal hitting the input body of the hydro unit before it was 100% activated.  It has been many years so I do not remember all the details like yesterday.  And I am not even sure about yesterday!

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » starter wiring question » 11/17/2020 10:19 AM

MS
Replies: 15

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The WYAIT MONSTER is lurking....watching...waiting...

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Adding MS rear disc brake kit » 11/17/2020 10:15 AM

MS
Replies: 2

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It is recommended that you only use a brand new bearing. I have never been willing to take the chance of a previously stretched bearing and retainer possibly coming loose.

Another reason.  Not sure how you can remove the existing bearing without pushing on the outer race alone.  That can possibly damage the ballbearings with minute flat spots or distortion. You never press a bearing in place pressing on the outer race.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Whats your thoughts on adding a axle housing drain plug? » 11/17/2020 10:06 AM

MS
Replies: 15

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That looks like the one that was on my car.  The big piece is a fill port that goes at the top.  Mine always had oily residue around it even though the welds were not leaking.
The drain on the bottom, at first, seems like a plus but, to me, it just got in the way of my floor jack when I placed it under the rear end.   A vacuum tube placed into the original fill port is a good way to remove old fluid. If you change fluid alot, the drain plug is probably the way to go but, in reality, does that ever happen unless the entire diff is being removed?

All that considered, when I had the new housing built, I had it done without the extra parts.

https://i.ibb.co/YhJgY61/7-D9-C9893-CABF-4-C06-BA20-EE6965-FAB6-DC.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/Sn8G74K/999-F3-ACA-E9-DC-4412-9-A22-D0-CFC166-DB19.jpg

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » PART 2 STARTS DRY (NO FUEL) CHOKE DROPS? » 11/16/2020 9:59 AM

MS
Replies: 18

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Small slit when cold and off...

Maybe adjust that to eliminate the slit and make it close shut. That will help to make it “come off choke” a little slower.

Board footera


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