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FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » I took the Pine-Sol carb soak technique and made it 10X BETTER » 1/21/2024 8:26 PM

Daze
Replies: 18

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MS wrote:

I guess if you are going to buy one, get the biggest possible size. And if two liters is enough to submerge the part, that is enough?
And could throw some rocks in there to take up liquid volume if the part to be cleaned is small

Or some random wrenches, hammers, sockets.  To get a free cleanup on those

That was exactly my thought. Glen and I were talking about this exact thing and he is going to use bad transmission gears. I would be worried about rocks reacting with the cleaning liquid.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » I took the Pine-Sol carb soak technique and made it 10X BETTER » 1/21/2024 7:33 PM

Daze
Replies: 18

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MS wrote:

What size is yours, Daze?  The 15L version would cost as much as a new carb to fill it with Pine-Sol!

15l. On sale fore $170 if you have Amazon prime and then there is a 5% coupon code knocking another 8 bucks off. I paid 139 when I got mine but that was between Thanksgiving and Christmas.  Not cheap but for me the time savings it paid for itself with these two throttle bodies.   Besides “money you enjoy wasting… “

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » I took the Pine-Sol carb soak technique and made it 10X BETTER » 1/21/2024 6:11 PM

Daze
Replies: 18

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RPM, aka Bearing Bob wrote:

6sally6 wrote:

"Awesome" (the name of a cleaner available at Dollar Tree ! BTW)
Funny story......
When I was on submarines, back in my Navy days, I was a cook. The double griddle we used was cast iron and even when it was scrubbed with greenie pads it never really looked super clean.
One day when I was cleaning the galley I took a package of concentrated  Kool-Aid (aka as bug juice! One packet made 10 gallons of bug juice.)
I mixed about a pint of water with a packet of the lime bug juice (NOBODY liked the lime so we had PLENTY). I put the super concentrate on the cool griddle and gently wiped it with a greenie.
The results were.........it looked like a sheet of shiny stainless steel ! Stupid clean.
We started using the "magic concentrate" every time we cleaned the griddle.
We ordered more of the stuff and the crew used it throughout the boat on all the stainless steel surfaces! (even the inside of the stainless steel crapper bowls)                                                                                             .1. Fill the bowl almost to the top
                                                                                                                                                   2. pour in the bug juice mix
                                                                                                                                                   3. swish and flush !
                                                                                                                                                   4. shined like chrome!!
True story.....concentrated dehydrated vinegar worked almost as well.
6sally6

 
Why did you wait all these years to share this tip?

This is at least the second time I’ve heard him tell that story.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » I took the Pine-Sol carb soak technique and made it 10X BETTER » 1/21/2024 5:11 PM

Daze
Replies: 18

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Nos681 wrote:

Cool video Daze.

Flea Bay has them too.

“Creworks ultrasonic cleaner”

I’ve been considering one too.

I have been trying to avoid greedBay unless I absolutly have to.  Poor customer service and they really screw their sellers.  I at one time sold most of my product line on eBay but got to a point where I would rather not sell it at all then sell it on eBay.
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » I took the Pine-Sol carb soak technique and made it 10X BETTER » 1/21/2024 4:43 PM

Daze
Replies: 18

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MS wrote:

So, where do I get one of those ultrasonic units?

Affiliate links to items in this video:

Amazon link to Ultrasonic Cleaner https://amzn.to/3HoeQLJ
Walmart link to Ultrasonic Cleaner https://walmrt.us/490SJH0

 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » I took the Pine-Sol carb soak technique and made it 10X BETTER » 1/21/2024 12:34 PM

Daze
Replies: 18

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After the amazing results using Pine-Sol as a carb dip I decided to do another experiment with an Ultrasonic cleaner.  I expected it to work well, Ultrasonic cleaners are a proven way to clean parts but I didn't expect it to work this well/fast





 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Best kept secrets in the classic Ford community Thanks Greg B » 1/17/2024 10:43 AM

Daze
Replies: 31

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Like I said before I only think it is critical in extreme situations.  Boost or NOS above 6000 RPM.  In those situations one degree either direction can cause detonation in an intake or to much advance in the cylinder.  Both results can be catastrophic but with a normal every day engine its not going to be an issue.  A few years back I was fighting an issue on a 351w on my run stand. Engine wasn't running poorly but I had two header tubes not getting as hot.  I was playing with EFI in self tune and it kept going rich.  Problem ended up being the 5 and 6 spark plug wires had gotten switched so one was way advanced and the other was way retarded.  Point being even though far from perfect the engine was still running okay and if a stock(ish) motor can be off by that much without major issues the one or two degrees of phasing is not going to effect it at all.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Best kept secrets in the classic Ford community Thanks Greg B » 1/16/2024 2:53 PM

Daze
Replies: 31

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Daze wrote:

Rufus thanks for pointing out the difference in rotor tips.  You helped me bust the myth that ford went to a bigger cap to avoide crossfire INSIDE the cap.  

The conventional wisdom that Ford went to a bigger cap to avoid crossfire inside the cap is a myth and like all good myths it is based in a sound logical concept but I just discovered proof that it is in fact a myth. Yes the terminals are further apart and logically that would indicate less unwanted spark jumping because the spark has further to go, BUT I went out to my garage and compared the smaller cap rotor to the bigger cap rotor and the bigger cap rotor has a much bigger tip to account for it moving faster. I took the distance between the cap contacts, subtracted the width of the corresponding rotor tip width and divided by 2. The number was THE SAME. That means inside the cap, from a spark point of view there is no difference. From this information it is obvious Ford made the change to the bigger cap fore some reason OTHER than crossfire inside the cap. Not to mention that if crossfire inside the cap was an issue there would be 20 years of Internationals sitting on the side of the road.
=13px

CORRECTION I measured hastily this morning and when I came out to work, I double checked my measurements there is about a .075 inch difference in the space on either side of the rotor contact on the bigger cap from the tip of the rotor when the rotor is centered. I don’t want to put out false information so I’m retracting what I said above. Ultimately, this has worked for a lot of ignitions. It may not work for all of them. A person is just going to have to try it and possibly adjust if they’re getting crossfire.


 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Best kept secrets in the classic Ford community Thanks Greg B » 1/16/2024 11:30 AM

Daze
Replies: 31

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MS wrote:

Explain what this is for, why matters?

It is my understanding that timing phasing only matter on a lock out distributor in a situation where massive timing swings need to happen to account for boost and NOS, situations where you want it retarded and even being off by a couple degrees advanced can cause catastrophic consequences.  There was a guy on VMF that wanted an adjuster to phase a Duraspark distributor that he had locked out and so yesterday I went out to the garage and invented one.  I took and old vacuum canister, chucked it up into the lathe to separate the halves, I then removed the diaphragm, added a heavy spring (I believe from drum brakes) cut the vacuum inlet off, machined a spacer to go between the adjuster that was already inside and the adjuster arm cup, drilled and tapped 4 holes and put it all together including installing a 1/4" fine thread bolt into the stock adjuster.



There is about 1/4" total adjustment which comes out to one reluctor tooth when installed in the distributor. That works out to about 8º





If I was going to install this in a car I would replace the bolt with a long setscrew with jam nut (just used what I had kicking around in the shop) and add 4 more screws to hold the halves together. Not only would they look cool but the body of the canister flexes a bit with just 4 screws.
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Best kept secrets in the classic Ford community Thanks Greg B » 1/16/2024 11:09 AM

Daze
Replies: 31

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Rufus thanks for pointing out the difference in rotor tips.  You helped me bust the myth that ford went to a bigger cap to avoide crossfire INSIDE the cap.  

The conventional wisdom that Ford went to a bigger cap to avoid crossfire inside the cap is a myth and like all good myths it is based in a sound logical concept but I just discovered proof that it is in fact a myth. Yes the terminals are further apart and logically that would indicate less unwanted spark jumping because the spark has further to go, BUT I went out to my garage and compared the smaller cap rotor to the bigger cap rotor and the bigger cap rotor has a much bigger tip to account for it moving faster. I took the distance between the cap contacts, subtracted the width of the corresponding rotor tip width and divided by 2. The number was THE SAME. That means inside the cap, from a spark point of view there is no difference. From this information it is obvious Ford made the change to the bigger cap fore some reason OTHER than crossfire inside the cap. Not to mention that if crossfire inside the cap was an issue there would be 20 years of Internationals sitting on the side of the road.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Best kept secrets in the classic Ford community Thanks Greg B » 1/15/2024 7:20 PM

Daze
Replies: 31

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6sally6 wrote:

EZ answer would be..........Axe Greg B if he has had any crossfire situations pop up.....
6s6
 

Lot of people have commented on my video and forum posts saying they have been running this for years, no issue.  Also International used it for over 20 years so I think it is fairly sound.  One engine builder who had a lot of good incites said crossfire is very RPM dependent.  Not as much of an issue until 6000 and above.  He also said most of the crossfire he has seen has been outside the cap but it does happen inside in extreme situations and without venting.
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Best kept secrets in the classic Ford community Thanks Greg B » 1/15/2024 1:45 PM

Daze
Replies: 31

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TKOPerformance wrote:

So, without knowing why they made the switch its all just speculation on our part. 
 

That!! that right there, exactly my point
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Best kept secrets in the classic Ford community Thanks Greg B » 1/15/2024 11:02 AM

Daze
Replies: 31

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TKOPerformance wrote:

Does the smaller cap have a vent?  I seem to recall that crossfire often was caused by ionized air inside the cap, and if you could vent it the issue resolved.  

Seams like a good theory, but I don't buy it.   The larger cap IS vented and if venting was all that was required Ford' bean counters would save $.02 per distributor on less plastic.  Yes ionized gas inside could crossfire so venting is good but I think their decision to go bigger has more to do with cheap spark plug wires and crossfire outside the cap.  If small caps were prone to misfire inside than all the MSD and other aftermarket caps would be bigger as ignitions have only gotten hotter.  Why can the aftermarket run smaller caps, because of aftermarket wires.
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Best kept secrets in the classic Ford community Thanks Greg B » 1/14/2024 10:32 AM

Daze
Replies: 31

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Some of you may have seen the thread I started a few weeks back regarding using an adapter and an MSD cap to reduce the size of the TFI distributor.  I also am a fan of the Duraspak distributor but never liked its big bulbous cap.  Yes you can swap that cap out for a points type cap BUT it requires new plug wires or at the very least changing the boots on your old ones.  What I really wanted was a smaller male cap that fit on the duraspark distributor... and thanks to Greg B I have one.






 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » I made a DIY tool and saved myself $80-$300 over buying it » 1/06/2024 7:58 PM

Daze
Replies: 7

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Already made some improvements. Added a tension spring to help secure it when in use and shortened the lower strut so it doesn’t hit the connecting rod.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » I made a DIY tool and saved myself $80-$300 over buying it » 1/06/2024 3:32 PM

Daze
Replies: 7

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RTM wrote:

Great idea. What are you using to set/zero your measurement?

 

I will installit on the bolts/rods and and then turn the dial to 0º
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » I made a DIY tool and saved myself $80-$300 over buying it » 1/05/2024 7:17 PM

Daze
Replies: 7

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I am actually getting into the 393 build and I need to properly torque the rod bolts.  I know the torque wrench is "good enough" but wanted the extra accuracy of measuring rod bolt stretch.  I went online to find a budget tool but was horrified to see they were $80-$300.  I already had a dial indicator, a push rod, some 5/8" key stock and miscellaneous hardware so I decided to make my own fixture for my indicator.  I am very pleased with how it turned out.


FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » I did a non traditional parts cleaning solution shootout » 1/04/2024 9:44 AM

Daze
Replies: 16

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Nos681 wrote:

Doesn’t Purple Power have a warning about etching aluminum on the label?
Water might make it a more effective cleaner too without as much etching.

I would need to look again but I believe it said "use caution" around aluminum and not much more


Nos681 wrote:

I enjoy your experiments like this.

What was the cost comparison?

Thanks, I try to do it in a way that does a real apples to apples comparison.  I never thought to compare cost.  I just went to Walmart's website and it looks like the purple power is cheaper but neither are very expensive for the job they are doing.  Depending on the size bottle you get the Purple power is about half the cost of the Pine-Sol.

As promised I did another experiment and put one of my throttle bodies in a Pine-Sol  24 hour soak and the other throttle body went into a Pine-Sol filled ultrasonic cleaner.  That video will drop in a couple weeks.



 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » Are Heim joints actually banned? » 1/04/2024 9:32 AM

Daze
Replies: 15

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MS wrote:

The real question:
Would the fact they are banned keep anyone from using them?

assuming they are illegal, (which I doubt) if you use them and you get in an accident because one failed an insurance company could use that as an excuse not to pay out.  They could say you chose to install that part and so you are responsible.

The entire thing seams fake.  If they were banned I think Summit would mention that in their thousands of heim joint product pages.

If there is anything I have proven over the last 20 years is anyone can have a web site and put on it what they like 😁
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » I did a non traditional parts cleaning solution shootout » 12/31/2023 9:26 PM

Daze
Replies: 16

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TimC wrote:

I have an ultrasonic cleaner I use to clean the carbs.  I use diluted Simple green.  Works like magic, but it does discolor the cast aluminum.  

That is what is so amazing about Pine-sol it gets it clean with NO etching or discoloration.
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » I did a non traditional parts cleaning solution shootout » 12/31/2023 10:23 AM

Daze
Replies: 16

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MS wrote:

Could the Pine Sol also be diluted to reduce the cost? I was using that cut 2.5 gallon container to do four pistons/rods at a time.

I do not know about diluting it.  Might work but all the research I did they were using it at full strength.  It is not that expensive and can be reused quite a few times.


Greg B wrote:

I wonder how it would work in an ultrasonic cleaner. I was thinking of buying one and waited until HF came out with their new years 25% off coupon. This year it had the exception that it doesn't count. . So no ultrasonic cleaner for me.

I did soak some rubber stuff in pine sol once. It really refreshed it. AND it made the basement smell great! Pine sol is good stuff.

Edit: I posted before watching your video.

You are stepping all over future videos 😂😂😂  I have an ultrasonic cleaner that is carb size, got it from Amazon.  I am going to do one throttle body in the cleaner and one in a non agitated soak.  I am also going to do a video on restoring rubber with pine-sol.  I have been doing that for years and it is a fantastic technique.
 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » I did a non traditional parts cleaning solution shootout » 12/30/2023 7:33 PM

Daze
Replies: 16

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Seams like I am always needing to clean some engine part and I am not a fan of the more traditional chemical dips due to harshness and smell.  The internet is full of peoples "solutions" for dipping and for carbs Pine-sol kept coming up.  This summer at the bash I was visiting with MS and and he recommended Purple Power for cleaning part.  I decided to try them both and see which one worked better.  





 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » To anyone who is running a TFI distributor and needs a smaller cap » 12/28/2023 2:51 PM

Daze
Replies: 15

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Nos681 wrote:

I bet you could make an adapter for stock cap.

I'm sure you could but the cap you found is so much smaller that I think the wire boots would be tight, its a tight fit on the MSD cap and this cap is as I sad .5" smaller

Nos681 wrote:

Will the rotor from same application fit onto the TFI shaft?

Perhaps place a notch in the TFI shaft to locate it like factory?

So the rotor is not the problem.  For this setup you use a "stock type"  rotor with the MSD cap and the TFI distributor.  It does however need to be an electronic advance type rotor that is located by the metal disc inside the TFI and not the shaft itself.

As you can see from the pic the rotor spins freely on the shaft and then is located by the arm off the back.  
https://amzn.to/47fW03V

Nos681 wrote:

My other thought was to use a “points style” cap with the 2 quick clamps on the TFI.

I looked at that too and while being doable we are rapidly getting to the point where my time is worth enough that I would just rater order an extra "gold platted cap" and keep it on the shelf 😁


 

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » To anyone who is running a TFI distributor and needs a smaller cap » 12/28/2023 1:43 PM

Daze
Replies: 15

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Nos681, picked one up today and it’s laid out exactly the same way, ONLY the diameter is .5” smaller. I thought maybe you had found a winner but no joy. I would be shocked if you found an OEM replacement for the MSD cap. Holley has a good family of products none of which are cheap and they only want you coming back to them for replacement parts.

FYI Ford, Classic Mustang Tech Discussion » To anyone who is running a TFI distributor and needs a smaller cap » 12/27/2023 11:43 PM

Daze
Replies: 15

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Nos681 wrote:

Perhaps a marine application?

it's for a bunch of jeeps and dodges from the 90s and early 2000s  that is why i will be shocked if it fits but stranger things have happened.  I will know for sure tomorrow

Board footera


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