Been in a holding pattern on my red truck, I thought I had a guy that was going to install an 8.50 cert roll cage, but been a week and no comms. I was to the point of doing a bunch of electrical work, but I don't want to have an expensive EFI in there when a bunch of welding is going to happen. I did get a new 16v battery, only 15lbs! Got a special charger for it too, hopefully there will be no burning down of the garage...

The long block is from Ford Strokers, it's a 427w DART block, TFS 11R 205 heads that have been CNC'd by TEA, a wimpy 9.2:1 compression (built for lots of boost), decent sized hydraulic roller and all forged bottom end. EFI is all Haltech with one of their Nexus R5's running the show. Fuel system is made for E85 with an Aeromotive 20 gal fuel cell and one of their in-tank 5.0 GPM brushless pumps, injectors are Injector Dynamics ID1700x (160 lb/hr). I still have to run all the plumbing for the twin Bullseye turbos and water lines for the air to water intercooler on top of the Holley High Ram base. With the coil-near-plug and that High Ram people mistake it for an LS motor at 1st glance, but it's still all Ford, just no distributor

My goal is to run in the 8.50 class in some of the Drag and Drive events.

RCodePaul wrote:

there's a 351W advertised locally as out of an 89 Econoline. The video shows the lifter valley with bosses for the roller spider but flat tappet lifters. Possibly a roller block that's been rebuilt as a non? Or did Ford use some roller blocks for non roller applications? 

Yes, Ford did indeed use roller blocks with non roller cams. All Gen 1 Lightnings (93-95) came with a flat tappet cams, but late 93's and up had a roller ready block F4TE casting. 
 

I've had good luck with this split sleeving for cleaning up existing wiring, just seal off the end with some "harness" tape.

Here's the loom
https://www.techflex.com/general-purpose/flexo-f6

here's the tape
https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-Professional-Self-Adhesive-Electrical-Automotive/dp/B0821HLWCC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.GddHHXumFZI25X5jUnT1Xgi3G4kjpKOq1FkZsY5K2Z6dB_5zmfP3Yqi9Zsq6WMPSydTzVGZrmgwNrIXaMJDiI3lGHLw8uReieFYC7qJcQe_BtqPtOcfsBJ5uP7arkHY98rYp4ErBsZfuDAvWhIUDrLw0k_enDnj3VtHHjtx4EKMhQDhUhWZ6sKMXO8p9xabPZUxVhr509IfWICiB9ijpGtQ5km8mKNU6FBLxfHnHnYY.SlY3XGz3Fl3GzO5jxLbx0Omkmc9xmGkI-o9lRfy0StA&dib_tag=se&keywords=wire%2Bharness%2Btape&qid=1742996621&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

6sally6 wrote:

Raymond_B wrote:

"I'd check your idle speed as well, sometimes folks want it real low to get the chop chop..." 

 
People REALLY do that ?! (how juvenile !!)
6sally6

No judgement here! Just something to look at.

John Ha wrote:

MS wrote:

I used to have the Shelby traction master drawings on the MustangSteve website. I doubt they still exist since I do not own the site any more
They do ride rough.

They're still there - I linked to the page in my previous post.  The drawing is 4th from the bottom

Yeah it's there, but all the pics have been resized down really small. Not sure it's even usable.
 

moon4964 wrote:

Will do, gentlemen. I will report back later this week. I just want to have a safe ride.

You'll be safe, pinion angle and the setting of it is mainly to reduce wear and tear and noise/vibration. Most folks don't even check
 

Here's some good tips on how to measure the various angles. Ignore the talk about numbers though because, as he points out, he has a coil spring rear. 

https://youtu.be/SDjBHT5-u_4?feature=shared

This guy gives a good overview of what you're trying to accomplish by figuring out the *working angle*. Now he's coming from a drag race perspective so don't focus too much on the numbers he puts out as optimal. Street car does not need so much working/pinion angle.

https://youtu.be/Hbu4yQa2kXo?feature=shared

Hopefully this helps, I think to summarize you want to measure either the engine angle or trans yoke angle whichever is easiest. Then measure your drive shaft angle, and finally your pinion angle. The working angle of the drive shaft angle and pinion angle are what you are after, but it's good to get that trans angle too to give you a full picture.

I hope this helps and is somewhat clear

Do you mean part# SW555? If so I found this reference

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cooling/648953-list-fan-switched-pns.html

Installed my Circle D converter and did the prerequisite check of the depth (how far the converter slides forward to touch the flexplate), measuring with a dial indicator it was coming forward 0.380" which is waaay too much. Recommended depth is 1/8 to 3/16 (0.125-0.1875). I attribute some of this extra depth to using a midplate which added 0.165" between the engine and the trans. Just a note this truck uses a front motor plate and midplate instead of engine mounts. Anyway, had a buddy machine up some 0.230" spacers which put the depth right at 0.156", perfect. But then I started worrying that with that much of a spacer is the converter snout even getting in to the pilot hole in the crank? So out came the transmission, I put a bunch of grease in the pilot hole of the crank and slid the transmission back in then I moved the converter back and forth to, hopefully, get a good grease mark on the snout. After that the transmission came out again so I could measure. Looks like I have over 0.150" engagement in the pilot hole, so that's good as Circle D said anything over 0.125 is OK. Then I had to put the trans BACK IN, finally got it done a bit ago and man my back is telling me I need a lift for this kind of stuff.

As a side note this Amazon motorcycle/ATV jack works great as a trans jack.



Spacers super glued to the converter


Taking measurements


Just in case you're wondering what I am talking about on the measurements, everyone should do this when replacing a torque converter!


 

I've used and really liked the controller from AutoCoolGuy. Only downside to me was that it was bulky, but it performed flawlessly in the Texas heat.

Here's an example of popping a rust bubble and then things getting out of hand. The reason I joined this group was that many years ago I bough what I thought was a nice 6 cyl 66 coupe. I was going to restore it with my son. One day I saw some bubbles above the right rear wheel lip, things escalated from there. 

When I got it



Started going after the bubbles



After stripping it down to bare metal and removing the 700 lbs of bondo I found. I never did finish it, sold the car to a buddy...