ok, someone educate me here.  I wouldn't think that lowering the upper arm and cutting coils has any effect on the anti sway bar position.  why would that be the case?  It's attached to the lower arm, right?

Just trying to learn. Thanks.

Shortening the link spacers will do the trick. Be sure to use grade 8 bolts (you'll probably need shorter ones). My car looks to be about the same height as yours and my end link spacers are probably about half the length of what I see in your pics. With the longer links the sway bar may also contact the frame before full bump stop in a worst case scenario.

Novi Rick, lowering the car means the lower arms sit 'higher' in relation to the chassis so the front of the sway bar will move down with standard length spacers in place, the frame bushings being the pivot point.

Last edited by McStang (7/23/2013 6:57 PM)

Steve-G wrote:

My first thought was , could it be upside down. I will try fliping it tomorrow.

It's not on upside down.

So as the car chassis is lowered, the sway bar rotates in the frame bushings, with the end result being the front / center part of the bar sits lower as it rotates.  Got it.  Thanks. I wasn't thinking of the whole bar, only the end links.

Does this put added stress on the end links or bar?  How is the ride affected?

I had to shorten the end link spacers and bolts on mine - running a big 1 1/4" (hollow) bar that definitely had clearance problems at my ride height (about as low as it will go) with stock length spacers - modified spacers are about 1 3/4" IIRC.

As far as shortening the spacers and messing up the bar geometry goes I really don't think this is a concern. As long as the end links are the same length on each side the bar will work fine. All the really low cars I've seen at track days have shortened end links and I haven't experienced anything 'funny' with mine - it sticks like gorilla snot with the current setup and tires with no funky behaviour over rough tarmac or when whipping around tight corners as fast as I can get it to go which is pretty quick ('66 Coupe). I'm also running Baer Trackers to correct bumpsteer, setup with a homebrew gauge, which is pretty much non-existant.