Cubic dollars for cubic inches.....

cough cough........does that equal "Shivel-lay"?!
Does shopping list equal a NEW?? cam       or re-ground?
6sal6

Whats your cam specs on the old cam?

I bet one with :
230-ish intake and exhaust (+6*)  @050
.560-ish lift
108-110* LSA
will produce a 'nice-handful' of fun with your current tranny and gear
Do you plan?? to chamfer/enlarge all your oil return holes (maybe enlarge the #5 cylinder supply/return oil holes)   Prolly a high volume oil pump(with HD oil pump drive shaft) would be a good idea. 
IF you degree your new camshaft in you will know how much advance is already 'ground in' the cam. An advance of a few more degrees(4/6*) will improve your low end power while decreasing it in the upper RPM range by a few hundred RPM. A good thing when building a 'street' engine. IMHO.
Can hardly wait to hear/see how it runs!!!
6sal6

Hey Dan, it’s hard to say if the block was really hurt or not. But it’s .060 over and I wasn’t gonna use it anymore.

Last edited by Bolted to Floor (2/09/2020 10:05 PM)

Here’s the info on the motor now that it’s together. 
New parts
D4 390 Truck block .020 over for 4.07 bore
Scat cast crank 4.125 stroke 
Scat BBC rods – for longevity as I was told by a coworker with a love for Chevy’s!!
Race tech forged pistons with 1.5 mm, 1.5 mm, 3 mm ring pack
Mahle file fit Plasma moly rings 
Sealed Power bearings
Comp cams hydraulic roller with .558 / .567 lift with 114 lobe separation degreed to cam card spec at 107 intake center line spec'd by Brent Lykins
Morel roller lifters
Bushed factory style non adjustable rocker arms and shafts from Rocker Arms Unlimited
Smith Brothers push rods
 
 
Re-used from busted motor
Felony heads
Edelbrock RPM intake
Ford racing 9 way timing chain
Standard volume oil pump checked out by machine shop and given a good bill of health. 
ARP oil pump drive shaft
750 vacuum secondary carb
Cap, rotor, & plug wires
 
I was shooting for 9.5 compression with a near zero deck height. Taking some measurements before the heads went on, it looked like the piston was about .018 in the hole. Wallace racing calculator has my compression at 9.28. 
 
Had the motor broke in on a dyno. Too much trouble to shoehorn it in the car to have to take it back out. I look at it as money well spent. No oil in the water, no water in the oil, no leaking rear main. No unnerving noises. It made 486 HP and 525 FT# torque.
 
It’s been shoehorned back into the car and the car is all back together. It will need more tuning, but it’s good enough for now. I set the timing to 14 initial. Used a vac gauge to get the highest reading out of the carb which was 16. Not sure when the total comes all in or how much I have right now. That will wait for another day. The front seal in the timing chain cover is leaking. 
 
The last motor did not have an oil gauge with numbers, just an idiot light. I never worried about it either , cause the light wasn’t on!!! There is a new Autometer oil pressure gauge working on this motor.  Oil pressure cold is about 50 psi idling about 900-950. Oil pressure hot is around 12 psi idling about 900-950. I guess I’m paranoid now.
 
That hydraulic clutch is still a pain in the back side. I didn’t break the lines when I pulled the motor cause I didn’t want to deal with bleeding it again. I guess cause I moved it in all directions during the re-install, I still had to bleed it. I also figured out looking under the dash that I don’t have a straight enough line between the clutch pedal and the clutch master. As the pedal goes down, the pivot point on the master pushes to the side as it goes forward. It could be adding to my problems.
 
Driving the car down the road again is great, missed that feeling a bunch. I’ve run it up to 80 briefly, no shakes or shimmies. It is kinda twitchy though from removing the control arms to weld in the plates. It does seem quieter going down the road than what it used to be.
 
 Now, this one needs to make 6000 miles, then another 95,000!!! 

Below are random pics of the assembly in no certain order. 

[url=https://ibb.co/44DS2GD][/url]


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[url=https://ibb.co/dDph84S][/url]


[url=https://ibb.co/T8S9DvC][/url]


[url=https://ibb.co/9Vqvjjt][/url]


[url=https://ibb.co/dtT0QPj][/url]


[url=https://ibb.co/8Mdr8x2][/url]


[url=https://ibb.co/mzbGRH6][/url]


[url=https://ibb.co/BsxVQhm][/url]

https://youtu.be/oEu-nLYaTJk


 

Glad to hear it is back on the road. Good you could pre run it to break it in. Takes away all the intrepdation. I never have liked hydraulic clutches. That's why mine feels like it is grinding when I push it in sometimes.

6sally6 wrote:

Bolted to Floor wrote:

[url=https://ibb.co/7RLwNh6]
The[/url] scoring on the cam is compliments to the oil starvation.




New Racetec piston.

The block will clean up at .020. New Scat crank, Scat rods, piston, rings, and bearings have all been dropped off to the machinist. New lifters are at the house and a new cam is coming. This is turning out to be an expensive adventure. 

I was leaning toward a 4.125 stroke from the beginning, just so happens that Scat was sold out of the 4.25 when I was ready to order, so that made life simpler. The rods are 6.7" BB cough cough. The new displacement will be 429.

Luuuuuv me some 'short skirtz'!!
6s6
 

New pistons look soooo good.
 Back when I got my forged SRP's all lined up in a row they looked like huge diamonds.

HudginJ3 wrote:

Glad to hear it is back on the road. Good you could pre run it to break it in. Takes away all the intrepdation. I never have liked hydraulic clutches. That's why mine feels like it is grinding when I push it in sometimes.

 
Thanks Doug, if I can’t it sorted out. I will be looking at the old mechanical linkage. No room for a cable!!

I would vote for the original clutch linkage. Fab it up with rod end bearings and it will be smooth. the only clutch linkage I have had fail in the past was cable and hydraulic. If you could go with external hydraulics that would be OK, but the hydraulic throwout bearings seem to be problematic. 

If it comes down to installing the mechanical linkage, it will be a real challenge to get it in there.

Oscar, looking forward to getting together after all this COVID stuff has passed. I’ve moved since the last rime you were over too. Now on the northeast side of Houston.