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This ~20 year old article was probably the deciding factor in buying AFR heads. Now I do realize the how and why of magazines testing parts, butt...
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I remember reading another article where all they swapped was the heads on an otherwise stock 5.0 and saw a similar gain. Stock cam, stock intake, etc. That was the one that led me to buy the set I have on my 331.
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Check out edelbrocks wedsite
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David67 wrote:
Check out edelbrocks wedsite
These are bare heads that have valve guides and seats installed, but will require final sizing $$$ and a valve job $$$ to match the valves you will be using. They will need valves $$, springs $$, keepers $$, push rod guide plates $$, etc.
Cheaper to buy fully assembled heads but I would still strip them and at least check spring pressures and hand lap the valves.
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David67 wrote:
Check out edelbrocks wedsite
These are intended for racing classes requiring stock geometry cylinder heads. There's no reason to spend a premium on these for any other application. The come bare because when you can't touch the ports all the magic is in the valves, valve job, and camshaft (requiring specific springs for the cam). In these applications they grind specific camshafts that would be terrible on the street and idle at like 2,000RPM. There will be rules limiting lift, but not necessarily duration or LSA (these are harder to check on an assembled engine). So the cams will have stockish lift, but an absurd amount of duration and a ton of overlap to breathe at high RPM. They also typically have super steep ramps, and guys may switch to solid lifters if its legal to avoid valve float and zing the engine past 7,000 RPM. A little crazy for sure, but that's what it takes to win in those classes. Its also how you see cars that ran low 14 to high 13 second ETs in true stock trim run deep into the 12s or better.
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Trick flow vs edelbrock?
What’s better on 2500-3500 rpm range?
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IMO Edelbrock are better heads than Trick Flow at any RPM range. The reason is simple, the Edelbrocks are newer technology. Trick Flow's biggest claim to fame was that they allowed you to run 2.02/1.60 valves on a 5.0 with stock pistons. A 2.02/1.60 valve head is intended for higher RPM, because you have to be sucking some serious air into the chambers to get flow around the roadblock that is a big valve head. You do that with the piston speed generated at higher RPM. At lower RPM those heads typically don't flow great, and this is an area where you can't really look at just flow bench numbers because they are misleading. To make power at lower RPM you need an efficient port, not a big one.
Its like anything else, valve size and port size need to be matched. For years the thought was that cramming a bigger valve into an inefficient port somehow made it efficient because the flow bench numbers would improve. All it really did was create larger flow volume. The problem is that there was no emphasis placed on the velocity of the air, or its flow characteristics. The greater the volume the worse the velocity all things being equal. You need volume at high RPM because the amount of time you have to fill the cylinder is very small, but at low RPM there's actually too much time for the larger volume port to work right.
The valve layout in the Trick Flow heads also tends to induce tumble and swirl into the air flow, which is not good for power in a gas engine.
Bottom line, though better than the stock E7TE heads, the Trick Flow heads are just outdated racing technology repackaged for street use. If the AFRs are out of the question my vote is for the Edelbrocks.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
IMO Edelbrock are better heads than Trick Flow at any RPM range. The reason is simple, the Edelbrocks are newer technology. Trick Flow's biggest claim to fame was that they allowed you to run 2.02/1.60 valves on a 5.0 with stock pistons. A 2.02/1.60 valve head is intended for higher RPM, because you have to be sucking some serious air into the chambers to get flow around the roadblock that is a big valve head. You do that with the piston speed generated at higher RPM. At lower RPM those heads typically don't flow great, and this is an area where you can't really look at just flow bench numbers because they are misleading. To make power at lower RPM you need an efficient port, not a big one.
Its like anything else, valve size and port size need to be matched. For years the thought was that cramming a bigger valve into an inefficient port somehow made it efficient because the flow bench numbers would improve. All it really did was create larger flow volume. The problem is that there was no emphasis placed on the velocity of the air, or its flow characteristics. The greater the volume the worse the velocity all things being equal. You need volume at high RPM because the amount of time you have to fill the cylinder is very small, but at low RPM there's actually too much time for the larger volume port to work right.
The valve layout in the Trick Flow heads also tends to induce tumble and swirl into the air flow, which is not good for power in a gas engine.
Bottom line, though better than the stock E7TE heads, the Trick Flow heads are just outdated racing technology repackaged for street use. If the AFRs are out of the question my vote is for the Edelbrocks.
TKO thank you for that sir .. here is why I was asking about TFS vs EB
Reading up on AFR’s .. General opinion being, that they will be most helpful if I’m looking for peak hp pulls on the dyno or the track.. but not so much on the street.. on the street, they don’t get a chance to perform their magic with an automatic transmission unless I’m shifting it manually letting my rpm go past 3500-4000 at each shift. ( almost what you say happens on the 2.02 valves)
Now is that truly the way it is?
300 dollar difference is major but 50 dollar difference isn’t anything . I’ll be calling edelbrock and cam companies to get their prices but if edelbrock heads are just 50 bucks cheaper then AFR is ofcourse in the running still..
In that case , are AFR going to outperform edelbrock on the street ..? 2500-3500rpm range?
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Gaba wrote:
In that case , are AFR going to outperform edelbrock on the street ..? 2500-3500rpm range?
Performance? I bought my AFRs cause they be purdy.
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The AFRs will be better everywhere so long as they are sized correctly to the application. This is why they offer so many different heads. Going with their 165 heads will make a killer street engine. Its just as their name implies: Air Flow Research, because that's what they do. There is simply more and better engineering in the way the ports are designed, cast, and machined.
For example, my 185s had very faint ribs at even spacing running through the intake ports. I thought, that's odd. The exhaust side doesn't have them, so its clearly done on purpose. I figured they know what they're doing, there must be some benefit to it, bolted them on, and didn't think about it again. Until yesterday, when I was watching one of the Hot Rod shows where they tore down a GT350 and standard V8 engine from the new Mustangs side by side. The GT350 had those ribs, whereas the standard engine did not. I've never seen another aftermarket head with them. Clearly there's a performance advantage there or Ford wouldn't have done it. I'm guessing cost wise this type of detail simply isn't worth it for the other head companies, but this is why AFRs are the best. They flow great at all lift values and their port velocity and efficiency simply cannot be beaten.
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Bearing Bob wrote:
Gaba wrote:
In that case , are AFR going to outperform edelbrock on the street ..? 2500-3500rpm range?
Performance? I bought my AFRs cause they be purdy.
They are that too. Nicest looking set of heads I've ever installed. I took them out of the box and though "these belong on my coffee table, not an engine!"
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I would go with Trickflow over Edelbrock heads. Not sure where TKO is coming up with his information saying Trickflow has have outdated technology. There twisted wedge 11R are Awesome heads and have great reviews. Talk to Woody at fordstrokers.com. He's built hundreds of strokers. He'd put the Trickflow along with the AFR heads as far as performance. There much better than the Edelbrock heads.
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A coupla builders I know of in Oz, with great reputations, luv the 11Rs.
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You've got to be real careful here comparing apples and oranges differently than I compared apples and oranges. Yes, that's a bit tongue in cheek, but here's my reasoning:
All TF heads are not created equal, but then neither are all Edelbrocks. My intention was to compare heads of similar characteristics at different price points. For the money you are not going to get a better head than an Edelbrock. They are made in the USA and use high quality components. Edelbrock controls their production process from casting through packaging.
You can't compare the TF heads at the same price point as Edelbrock, because the Edelbrock heads I'd recommend are over $300 cheaper. Specifically I'm comparing the E-Street heads (which are under $1,000 a pair right now at Summit) with the Trick Flow M61 or M58 heads (which are $1,320 a pair). Given these two options I'd definitely save the money and use the Edelbrocks. The M61/M58 TFs are basically the same head they've been building for decades with minor updates. They are designed around the ability to use a 2.02/1.60 valve package on a 4" bore engine with stock pistons. The valve positioning and port design is a dated circle track design. TF can try to spin this however they want, but the facts are out there if you want to research it.
So next, I'm comparing those same M61/M58 TFs to the AFR 165 Renegades. The AFRs are the more expensive heads by about $300. But performance wise there's no comparison, the AFRs are significantly better.
Now, if we are going to level the playing field, a proper comparison are the TF 170 11Rs and the AFR 165 Renegades. In this comparison the AFRs are actually a bit cheaper, and I've yet to see anything pointing that the additional $67 you pay for the TFs is worth anything. The AFRs use better components (valves, etc.) which is part of the reason they are more expensive than the lower priced heads referenced above. Where you need to be careful is that the quality of the TF heads has gone down a bit in recent years after they were acquired by Summit.
Here are the TF 170 11Rs:
Here are the AFR 165 Renegades:
The array of heads available for the SBF is dizzying. The AFRs are more expensive than the entry level aluminum heads from any manufacturer. BUT that's also because at the performance level we are talking about AFR only offers one head where others offer a lot more options. The point of my initial advice was not to directly compare offerings from TF, Edelbrock, and AFR; it was to illustrate the best options at various price points to somone trying to decide how to spend their money on a small cubic inch street engine build. If we level the playing field and compare the best options from all three companies what you'll find is that the AFRs still win, because they are the still best head and are actually also the cheapest.
Everyone is going to have their preference. Engine builders tend to stick with what they know. If they are selling engines and customers are happy there really isn't much pressure to innovate. When you are building for volume and watching your bottom line, like in any other business, you are going to look at the head which has the best combination of cost, reliability, and performance. This can be a different set of criteria from one of us looking to build one engine one time. My preference is for the best product available for the intended application. The difference in cost would have to be extreme for me to consider it a primary factor in my decision making. I'm not going to leave HP on the table, so long as I'm not moving outside my build criteria. I also exhaustively research every component in an engine I build. I've never bought a crate engine because I've never been able to find one with all the parts in it I want. There's always something that's different and I know the reason is that the builder is cutting cost because he gets a better deal on the parts he's using compared to the ones I'd use. In the real world is it a noticeable difference on the street? I can't say. I know I've always been happy with what I've built, and I don't build enough engines to say "on this one I'll use a different set of heads". I can't claim a ton of direct experience, but I can claim that its unlikely anyone researches stuff as well or as much as I do. Its the German perfectionist in me, and sharing that knowledge is why my posts tend to be so darn long.
Last edited by TKOPerformance (12/30/2019 6:52 AM)
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TKO - followup question.. edelbrock e street heads will need springs and valves changed to work with the roller correct ? Is that a $$$ undertaking? Or something I can accomplish at home?
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Gaba wrote:
TKO - followup question.. edelbrock e street heads will need springs and valves changed to work with the roller correct ? Is that a $$$ undertaking? Or something I can accomplish at home?
The Edelbrock web site specificly states that the valves, springs and valve spring seats are not compatible with hydraulic roller camshafts.
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Gaba, after all this discussion, I think you know what the realistic answer is.....save your moo-la, purchase the AFR heads and don't look back....
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josh-kebob wrote:
Gaba, after all this discussion, I think you know what the realistic answer is.....save your moo-la, purchase the AFR heads and don't look back....
Yeah.. for that price range AFR 165 is the way to go... why even go with anything else at that point ...
I am coming up with ways to see if I can save the moolah and buy the AFR’s .. but if I can’t , which Is a possibility, all this info is gold to helping figure out what to go with.. as a second choice .
I am pricing some machine shops in the area to get the block cleaned and prepped .. any suggestions for the dfw metroplex?
Called city motor .. Blaine motor .. republic custom engine... horse power research(OVERPRICED) .. any other suggestions... before I basically pick one of the top three?
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It does say the E-Street heads aren't compatible with hydraulic roller cams. As to exactly why I can't seem to get a straight answer. My guess would be the springs aren't up to the task. There's a reference to needing to change rocker studs if upgrading the springs, which I simply don't understand. I didn't see anything about the valves or the valve seats on their website, but it is in the notes on Summit's website. I'd probably call Edelbrock to be 100% sure, as I've seen multiple mistakes on Summit's website before.
If you could get away with just a spring swap, sure, it's easy and can be done at home with just a spring compressor. Springs are probably about $100. If you really have to change everything else then its in no way worth it. You'll end up with more in the heads than a set of AFRs and they will still be a lackluster head by comparison.
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In my auto repair business days I would not recommend City Motor or Blain. I have no experience with the others you mentioned. MS wasn't to happy with Wells Racing and I can understand why with his welding experiance but I figure no one sees it so so what. Dennis also has personality issues and business issues BUT.... I have know him since 1984 and he has always helped me. He will give you the strong impression that he doesn't have the time and often cuts you short. If you are patient with him he will make suggestions that are often cheaper and better than what your thinking. I have had the best success with him just by telling him what kind of performance and use I am intending to get out of the car and just let him come up with it. He picked my cam and followers and because of that told me I didn't need to change the springs in my heads. His preferred engine is GM but he will admit if he doesn't know something FoMoCo. He was familiar with all the parts of my build though. If your thinking of City Motor or Blains, 15 more minutes of driving might be worth it. Dallas EPA laws prevent him from "acid?" cleaning engine parts any more so he is limited to steam cleaning parts after the first cleaning, whatever that is, I didn't ask.
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I'm always intrigued by these articles, but over the years I've learned to approach them with a bit of skepticism. Here's why:
Problem 1: these engines are run on a dyno only. They never seem to make it into a car, and so all you get is a picture of power. Things like vacuum to run power brakes, idle quality, etc. aren't reported, because they don't matter.
Problem 2: there are sponsorships and advertising associated with them. When you get parts for free to test does it behoove you to make them look good or bad? If they look bad you're likely not getting free stuff again in the future. This also limits you to a pool of parts from suppliers willing to give you parts for free or at a deep discount. It doesn't mean you're seeing a real world best bang for the buck on parts.
Problem 3: the pricing is basically always unrealistic. Sure, I could buy a complete junkyard motor for $150 20 years ago, but that's simply not happening anymore. I've also always been quoted higher pricing for labor when looking for various services performed in the articles. Now, maybe there's some regional variation, but I doubt it because they are building these engines in a state with one of the highest standards of living in the country.
Problem 4: junkyard parts are always magically good. I've yet to see them Mag a set of heads and find a cracked one, etc. Yet if you research it you'll find a lot of people have that problem, yet these guys alone seem immune. Not even so much as the cost to have the heads Mag'd included anywhere.
So do they give you an idea of what's possible? Sure, but go into it with your eyes open. Magazines sell pie in the sky. Its why they exist. Automotive stuff may not be as bad as say bodybuilding mags (sure, that Mr. Universe just took this supplement...well, that and six different kinds of anabolic steroids we aren't going to tell you about), but its still a business designed to get you and me to buy product above all else. Even if sometimes the product is the magazine itself.
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