IME all of the stuff designed to "custom fit" classics is junk.  Its niche market stuff made overseas that neither sounds good initially nor lasts very long.  If you want quality, dependable sound you have to figure out how to adapt universal stuff to your classic, because the real deal manufacturers just don't build stuff that custom fits anything.  In a '67-'68 its easy enough to just modify the opening in an aftermarket radio bezel to fit a standard DIN sized chassis.  Its trickier in a '65-'66.  You don't want to butcher the dash, but there's other ways.  A custom console with a spot for a head unit for example.

I'm also going to advise using an external amp.  The problem is that the amps inside the radio have to work WAY too hard and they burn out.  I've yet to have an external amp built by a decent manufacturer fail.  Its certainly a bit more work to add one, but its that whole, "How often would you like to do this?" deal.  Personally, when I do a sound system for one of my vehicles I never plan on touching it ever again. 

You probably would think the system in my '67 is overkill, and for some it probably is.  For me its just right.  JBL front components (mids in the kick panels, tweets on the A pillars, x-overs under the dash; all custom mounts), JBL 6x9s in the rear (custom modified aftermarket trap door), Rockford Fosgate 4 channel amp with an x-over and output running to a second Rockford Fosgate amp driving a single JBL 10" sub in the trunk.  Alpine in dash CD head unit.  It took a good deal of work, but it sounds great, and having used quality components I know it will last. 

As Barry mention. The aurora mod if you have the original radio is the best way to go, and yes it's more $. The red car has one. I was feeling cheap the day I ordered the restrosound for the 67. It's OK, sound not so wonder. It's a PITA to have to get the book out and figure how to make a change every time or when after the battery disconnected.

Last edited by red351 (2/19/2020 6:30 PM)

I knew it was just a matter of time.
Didn’t know that was out there.
Guess I should get out more....😁

You want everything to match.  If your speakers will handle 140-200 watts peak you want an amp that can deliver that.  The reason why is the same reason you don't want to just run 45watts per channel from the head unit.  You're going to end up driving the amp really hard, which will shorten its life.

Typically though you don't match amps and speakers based on peak values, you use RMS values.  Think of RMS as "power at normal listening levels".  The idea is that you can keep the gain on the amp low and hear what you want to hear at about 1/2 max volume on the head unit (or less).  This makes everything live a long, happy life. 

Your impedence values also need to match.  If you have 4 Ohm speakers get a 4 Ohm amp.  Most good amps will play into 2 Ohms, so its not a concern.  Don't worry about what it will do bridged, you're not going to do that. 

My advice would be to go with something that delivers at least 75watts RMS at 4 Ohms on 4 channels.  Here's some options:

https://www.crutchfield.com/g_347050/4-channel-Amps.html?tp=35782&pg=2#&nvpair=FFRMS_Power@@Channel|[rank2]%2061%20-%2080%20watts

The Rockford Fosgate one that's $250 is what I run, but I don't think you'll go wrong with any of the name brand ones (MB Quart, JL Audio, Kicker, MTX, or Infinity).  I've used or installed amps by all of those manufacturers before and they sounded great and lasted  essentially forever.  Sound quality may be somewhat limited by your speakers, but I'd get a good amp now, and you can upgrade the speakers later if they distort, suck, or blow out. 

Your head unit will also play a role in how "clean" the sound is going to the amp.  FYI, NEVER use line level connections to an amp (speaker wires from the head unit).  Always use RCA cables.  There are line level converters if the head unit lacks RCA outputs, but most have them. 

You can shop the price around too.  Sometimes Crutchfield is best, sometimes Amazon beats them, etc.  Any questions just ask, and feel free to PM me too if you want. 


 

Will a stock 65 AM work?
Chris
 

Thank goodness for simulcast on AM and FM in the SF Bay Area.
That was all I had for a year.