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Bullet Bob wrote:
Man Gaba, you have one very understanding wife. I don't matter how surgically clean I might make engine parts...they ain't gonna be worked on in Jean's kitchen!!!!. Period!
BB
Yeah this was a ask forgiveness later kind of situation.. when she finally noticed what I was doing , she hovered until all “gross” stuff was off the island Hahahaha
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Next up: GABAVIRUS
Coming to a kitchen near you!
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MS wrote:
Next up: GABAVIRUS
Coming to a kitchen near you!
Hahahahahaha!
I needed that laugh.
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GABAVIRUS good one MS
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I’m contagious ....
Hahaha
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Is there a test kit available
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Looks like those heads are cut for o-rings. Are you going to run boost?
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Raymond_B wrote:
Looks like those heads are cut for o-rings. Are you going to run boost?
I think that's just squish area.
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Raymond_B wrote:
Looks like those heads are cut for o-rings. Are you going to run boost?
No I’m not ... I’m letting that oring groove be there as it ... There is no insert in the groove, and the machine shop I’m working with said I could easily use those heads for the compression I’m running (10:1) with a normal gasket ,
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Bullet Bob wrote:
Raymond_B wrote:
Looks like those heads are cut for o-rings. Are you going to run boost?
I think that's just squish area.
No these heads are cut for o-rings .. the new one I bought doesn’t have that groove. 10 years ago, edelbrock used to add this ring on customer request .. they don’t anymore .
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Gaba wrote:
Raymond_B wrote:
Looks like those heads are cut for o-rings. Are you going to run boost?
No I’m not ... I’m letting that oring groove be there as it ... There is no insert in the groove, and the machine shop I’m working with said I could easily use those heads for the compression I’m running (10:1) with a normal gasket ,
Good to know about the gasket as that was my next question
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After reading the definition, I'm pretty sure that ain't you Gaba. Funny though.
Last edited by Bearing Bob (3/20/2020 2:47 PM)
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Pretty sure you'll have to run an o-ring on the head that's cut for one. Basically the o-rings act at a stainless steel spring that allow the combustion chamber to still seal even when the head lifts up off the block a little bit. Without the o-ring I don't think the combustion chamber sealing ring in the gasket will work effectively because it won't lie flat against the head; there will be a recessed area above it.
Trick Flow used to have instructions with their o-ringed heads that said if you weren't going to run o-rings you needed to mill the heads flat to remove the grooves.
If the machine shop says its okay I'd ask if they will R&R the head if its leaks. If they say yes, then rock on. If not then I'd at least get another opinion from another engine builder/machine shop.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
Pretty sure you'll have to run an o-ring on the head that's cut for one. Basically the o-rings act at a stainless steel spring that allow the combustion chamber to still seal even when the head lifts up off the block a little bit. Without the o-ring I don't think the combustion chamber sealing ring in the gasket will work effectively because it won't lie flat against the head; there will be a recessed area above it.
Trick Flow used to have instructions with their o-ringed heads that said if you weren't going to run o-rings you needed to mill the heads flat to remove the grooves.
If the machine shop says its okay I'd ask if they will R&R the head if its leaks. If they say yes, then rock on. If not then I'd at least get another opinion from another engine builder/machine shop.
Just for information sake ...
If ... I use the Felpro 1006, the gasket compresses down to 0.039 and the normal gasket( 9333PT-1) to be used on the other side compresses down to 0.047”.. is that a difference too great?
Also I don’t see a steel wire in this head .. that something I need to install?
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Just to eliminate the 'chance' of a problem...I would use the same thickness of gasket (0.039 would be my vote for the+ CR)
Not sure (gasket MAY seal around the groove !?)
I would check with the machinist and ask "Are YOU SURE?!"this one grooved head ain't gonna come back and bite me in the A$$?! IF he's as reputable as you say........he should tell the truth.
6s6
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I would not use different gaskets side to side.
There are several ways that o-rings work. There are "lockwire" gaskets that have a raised ring around the chamber meant for use with o-ringed heads. There are small flat o-rings used on top of conventional gaskets. There are o-rings that seal the combustion chamber meant for use with solid copper gaskets (typically coated in a sealer to seal the water jacket).
I can't find anything online about what Edelbrock wanted used with their heads. You could contact their tech department.
If it were me, I'd mill the groove off that head and mill the other one to match. If this bumped compression beyond what I wanted, or reduced quench distance too much I'd just make up the difference with a gasket of appropriate thickness.
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I have used plain gaskets with "o-ring" heads and with the "o-ring" in the block. I always find a gauge of copper wire that fills the groove to support the gasket. Only on street engines, On race engines we always use the wire or o-ring that the groove was designed for. Memory tells me 10.3 to one was the highest compression we did that on.
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DC wrote:
I have used plain gaskets with "o-ring" heads and with the "o-ring" in the block. I always find a gauge of copper wire that fills the groove to support the gasket. Only on street engines, On race engines we always use the wire or o-ring that the groove was designed for. Memory tells me 10.3 to one was the highest compression we did that on.
Flat copper wire? Where does one find such a thing?
Online!
My guess is that it is a round wire that compresses when the head is torqued down. ICBWT
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When you torque the head the round wire goes flat partially and embeds in the gasket as well. Since copper expands well with heat, the hotter you get the better it seals. I always cut the wire to hug the outside of the groove.
And I made sure the ends were cut flat with a smoothing file.
Last edited by DC (3/21/2020 10:48 AM)
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do you roll it by hand or.......some type of wire roller?!
6sal6
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DC wrote:
When you torque the head the round wire goes flat partially and embeds in the gasket as well. Since copper expands well with heat, the hotter you get the better it seals. I always cut the wire to hug the outside of the groove.
And I made sure the ends were cut flat with a smoothing file.
Copper wire of any specific thickness?
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I always measure the groove to figure groove cross section area. Length X width = area. Then pick a wire with slightly smaller area. I am talking single strand wire not multiple strands.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
I would not use different gaskets side to side.
If it were me, I'd mill the groove off that head and mill the other one to match. If this bumped compression beyond what I wanted, or reduced quench distance too much I'd just make up the difference with a gasket of appropriate thickness.
I'd do this to keep things symmetrical. That said, back in tyre 70's my brother had a 64.5 with a screaming 289 that rarely lost a race. After teardown for a rebuild he found that the dealer had done some warranty work that resulted in 2 replaced pistons, of different cr and weight!!! YMMV.
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One more step closer ..
Old head valves spring were too weak .. test showed 100lb off after sitting there for years compressed .. valve seals were still very pliable , and installed height was the same as the new head from edelbrock (1.80”)
So , all I had to do was replace those springs with new ones from edelbrock. The part number is visible here .. those are the springs for my 60399 heads
The green Velcro strap was my safety addition ... that was a necessary finger saver when the compressor prongs slipped a few times!
Went well, all 8 springs changed out ... slow and steady.. quarantine work ;)
Old ones all out ..
Last edited by Gaba (3/23/2020 3:34 PM)
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