“A” piece of paper.🤪

Dianne is the real boss of the house...
I’m in charge of the garage.

Here’s another resource I used as well:

http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/page1.html

Last edited by Nos681 (4/25/2020 8:03 AM)

James W has great information as well on his website.

I also used Ford Racing’s instruction manual for this as well.
It has a list of part numbers for components, if you don’t have them already.
I probably did it the hard way, but I wanted to understand what I was doing.
Not just cut, copy and paste.
Especially if problems arise in the future.
I learn and remember best by doing it myself.
Besides I enjoyed the challenge.

Last summer, I couldn’t find the book Bullet Bob recommended.
Now with the popularity of the coyote, I bet many will be available this year.

Good luck on your project.

The EEC does take a signal from the VSS.  You can tap into the positive and negative wires to drive your speedo, aftermarket cruise control, etc.  But the EEC uses it also.  It lets the EEC determine acceleration/ deceleration.  For a stock setup the only items you can easily get away with removing are the Canister Purge, Air Management 1 (The T-bird doesn't have AM-2), and EGR if you choose but we've already talked about that and for your purpose I'd leave it in place.  If you remove CANP and AM-1 you will need to replace the solenoid valves with 5W, 75 Ohm resistors to fake out the EEC.
A note on Canister Purge:  If you remove the canister and the purge function you will want to ensure that you have a vent on the fuel tank that will allow pressure OUT.  The stock 66 fuel cap will allow air IN but not OUT.  With the circulating fuel system of EEC-IV you are adding heat to the fuel in the tank and it is ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY TO ALLOW THE PRESSURE OUT!!!  Don't ask how I know this.  If you know someone with a early Falcon take a look at how Ford did the vent on them.  You can run that vent to atmosphere...as Ford did...or run it to the canister and use a purge solenoid valve just as the EEC system was designed.  This is the way I ended up going.  If you use CANP, mount the Purge Solenoid on an insulated/flexible mount.  If you mount that thing solid on the firewall or near the firewall on the apron you will spend the first two years of driving trying to determine where the Hexx the steady "clicking" is coming from.  Again, don't ask!  I found out that this is a very common issue with most of the modern vehicles...lots of complaints to the dealers.
If you don't have a Falcon handy to look at let me know and I'll send you a pic and an explanation.

BB1