What HE said!!
6sally6

ok  great...now are there kits or what

We really like TCI.  Total cost involved.  Love thier kits and easy to install.  Dummy proof if you know what a monkey wrench is.

Try Speedway Motors out of Lincoln Ne.
[url]http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustang-II-IFS-Stock-Control-Arms-Springs-and-Shocks-Dropped-Spindles,22750.html[/url]  $999
And you would need a crossmember for another 300. They have quite a few other kits with airbags and coilovers too. Just do a little searching.


 

Last edited by Alan (8/03/2013 4:24 PM)

Tubo wrote:

Derek wrote:

Well In my opinion, Based on what your plans are for the car . Big block, Back half, Pro street. You mite as well go the next step and do a mustang II front end. Buy the time you source all the little bits that make it into V8 suspension + convert it to disc brakes + replace the 50 year old worn out bits. And with a big block you'll still need to cut and clearance the shock towers. It'll be less time and $$ to just go with a mustang II front end. Not to mention you won't have any shock towers in your way when your done..

With respect to fellow stangers, I whole heartedly disagree.
It does not cost anywhere near the $2250-$3000 a MII convesion does, to rebuild  stock geometry with better than origional parts. Plus you will have a better handling, quicker stopping car. Besides which, the MII ifs suspension conversion, transfers road torque to the chassis in ways,the unibody is not designed to take. No, IMHO the MII is a poor choice, with less desirable charistics, all at a greater cost.
For those who disagree with me, research over on "www.corner-carvers.com". Those guys live and die about handling and brakeing. Don't like their forums. Ask the folks@street or track

Corky

Well I'll start by agreeing with you that mustangII front ends DON"T TURN WELL, and that they are inferior on mustangs to a design more condusive to the unibody. HOWEVER I think your over looking the fact that he's building a (tubbed out), (fat tire), (big block), (drag car). That may not even need a sway bar. Secondly I think if you do the math $$ you'll find you'll get up to $2000.00 easier then you think. Upper + lower control arms, springs ,insulators,  shocks, inner+outer tie rod ends, center link, idler arm,  steering box, disc brake converion oprox $500.00 by it's self, shipping+handling, and I'm sure I'm leaving out ah few bits and peices AND he'll still have to cut and clearance the shock towers for the big honken drag headers. Compared to (mustang II) all that + rack & pinion steering+ no shock towershttp://www.ebay.com/itm/64-73-Ford-Mustang-FRONT-END-SUSPENSION-KIT-disc-brake-/400519607297
 

Hornman wrote:

  Lots of room for wide engine and headers with Mac Strut. Since a drag car is concerned with going straight, the esoterics of handling pretty much don't matter.

Hornman I do not disagree bout the MacStrut. Which can be done fer bout $1600. However in this case, as the 67 came from the factory with a big block 390, no alteration the the engine bay is needed. Much less cut out the front suspension and add a heavier unit, that is less capable. If more width in the engine bay is needed MacStrut is my choice too. http://www.gatewayperformancesuspension.com/  MacStrut is also my choice fer the Cross Country cruiser 73 Vert/TiVCT 5.0 conversion, on my to do list. 
I just DO NOT care for the MII ifs system, under just bout any circumstances you care to name. 20 years ago it was bout the only alternative, things have changed. Some folks still think the MII is wonderful, and tend to over state it's merits. I have the opinion it's the least desireable option available, and feel obligated to help keep facts straight.

Tubo

DC wrote:

Mine is an MII but it isn't for all the reasons above. I started with the heidt's cross member because it came with all the pre cut and bent pieces to reinforce the frame rails cheaper than I could buy the steel. My top a-arms are relocated to improve camber curve and get more caster. I made a full size set of cut outs of the suspension and pinned them to one of my garge doors to figure everything out. This led to custom upper and lower a-arms to get the geometry right. That was an eye opening experience. I now have a car that out runs my race car on the track and drives better than any other car I have. I do not have to run a ridiculous amount of static camber to get the tires to work since my camber curve is designed in. I ran a reinforcing tube inside the fender well from the firewall to the front frame rail to solve the chassis flex problem and my "export" brace is tied the the inner fenders and that tube. The whole car moves together now when you use a jack. I also moved the rack to fix the bump steer. I am thinking about some more work to the spindles and rack to get a little better ackerman.

DC,
Do you have a pic page of your install/build?  Sounds neat.  Running a reinforcing tube to the firewall is a good ideal!!

I think a good Bash thing would to have radius turning party.  Stock, McPherson and a Mii test in a parking lot and look at all the pros and cons.  I can tell you that the TCI kit turns as sharp as any stock stang I have driven.

Good thread.
I agree with Corky that the stock setup can be made to handle very well any may be the superior setup but shopping at total control or global west really gets pricey in a hurry.
I look at where will the car spend 90% of its time and make it to drive well there.


 

I'm going to investigate some Mac Strut set ups at a local salvage yard. There has to be something out there that will go into shaved towers on these old cars. That will make room for bigger engines plus have R&P.
There is an Ozzie company that has a set up but is too pricy for my budget.
IMO MII is still old technology and other than making more engine bay room, not a whole lot better than what is in the cars now.

Last edited by Rudi (8/05/2013 1:34 PM)

Well it's really a have your cake and eat it thing. We all want more room up front, but what do we have to give up for it?

Did I say Struts SUCK, this is what can happen when you have to compromise on camber settings with a strut suspension. This was a new tire 18 laps earlier. Unfortunately the race was 20 laps. So much initial camber to get the tires to work well caused this tire which was the right fornt (the inside edge is what died) to blow. I guess I used a little too much trail braking which overlapped with turning in on two corners. I gotta not run my 65 Fastback any more on the track cause it teaches me bad things like this. The modified MII on my Fastback works much better under braking, I never have a problem like this with it. I never had a problem like this with the stock suspension with the Shelby dorp either. Both the MII and the dropped stock set-up work far better than the *#$&^@ struts. This happened last weekend on my 95 GT that I race in American Sedan SCCA. ONCE AGAIN STRUTS SUCK!!!

Why not install a stroked Windsor in it and have a car that performs well and also sounds well?

Tubo wrote:

For those who disagree with me, research over on "www.corner-carvers.com". Those guys live and die about handling and brakeing. Don't like their forums. Ask the folks@street or track

Corky

CC.com has such good information and is one reason I opted to not go MII. I am so bummed that I swapped email providers and forgot to change my board profile. I rarely posted, but without logging in you can't see a lot of the pics.