You have the LCA moved outwards as far as it will go and you still have positive camber?

What springs and isolators are in the car?  If the spring/isolator package is too tall you will have exactly what you describe. 

Just to clarify, the top of the tires are tilted outward, correct?

You can tell by my jibber jabber that I am a little confused about positive and negative camber. When the car is on the ground tops of the tire is towards the engine when it is in the air is toward the outside of the fender.  It moves as much as 3° between the ground and jacking it up on the passenger side the driver side moves about 3/10 of a degree. I would like to get it within Daze’s specs. He does not specify what the passenger side camber should be. I’m not at home so it can’t be more specific on the settings I’m talking about.

There are no shims but I believe that would resolve my problem.

If the top of the tire is tilted inward towards the engine, you can add 1/8” shims to the upper control arm bolts to move it outward and within the adjustment limits of the LCA cams.

As TKO stated, the front end must be fully settled, not jacked up, in order to measure camber.

When the car is on the ground after driving it up and down the street measuring the camber with a Digital Protractor Pro 360 placed on the hub cap of the wheel with the level vertical it reads -88.8 degrees. According to Daze specs it needs to be adjusted to -.5 to 0 degrees. So I need to move it -1.2 degrees. In the air up on jacks it reads 87.9 degrees so I need to move it to 86.7 degrees to get to zero. The adjuster cam is at max adjustment. Just to clarify the hub cap is square, I checked it but to be sure I put the valve stem at the top before it take the reading. I do drive it up and down the street before I take the reading before I jack it up again.    Thanks for the input.

Like BBII said, no hanging dimensions matter.  Only when sitting on the ground.  Be sure caster is set before camber.

Turn plates are really only necessary for caster adjustment.  They won't help with camber.  The wheel should move inwards or outwards without really needing turn plates on a typical concrete garage floor.

Alignment should be done in this order: caster, camber, toe.

Trying to half adjust one then do another leads to tail chasing.

How are you measuring caster? 

Its easier, but probably not as accurate.  Its kind of like trying to plumb a stud with a torpedo level instead of a 4' or 6' level.  Without a direct way to measure spindle inclination you would have to interpolate it from two different camber readings.  For that I've always used turn plates.  I'm not totally familiar with the system (I use Fastrax) so I need to ask how it measures caster?

I adjusted the caster with it jacked up as well but let it down to take the reading. Don't get me wrong the alignment is all messed up now. It gives me something to do. If all else fails I can take it back to the shop. Their front end machine is fixed now. Except they won't be able to get the camber where it should be. I noticed something else last night, The camber cam on the drivers side is adjusted all the way positive and the cam on the passenger side is all the way negative. In all the years I've owned the car I don't remember seeing that. The car was wrecked before I bought it. Looks like the little old lady rear ended somebody. Structurally it looks like only the DS inner front "fender" had been replaced.

I used Method 1 but don't remember what the numbers were. That was a couple of weeks ago. I couldn't get the full adjustment called for but it came close. Because it wouldn't adjust to what the specs called for I used the settings that it already had and made the adjustments using the same left right separation.
  But since I was last here I managed to adjust the camber on the one side I was having trouble with. I wasn't reading the protractor correctly. It doesn't read + or - . Just degrees and I wasn't looking at it while making the adjustments so I past 90º and didn't realize it. I placed the protractor on the tire so I could watch it change as I made the adjustments. I still have 1º to go but it will be a couple of days before I get back to it. Then it will be the left side.

I'm a tad confused by those instructions because it says the amount you turn the wheel in and out doesn't matter to accurately determine caster.  Using turn tables and the Fasttrax I always turn the wheel 15 degrees out, zero the caster gauge, and turn it 15 degrees in.  The reading on the gauge is the caster.  I'm guessing they are doing that with the window in the gauge.  It just seems prone to human error.