Verify firing order first. 

Did you verify that the TDC mark on the balancer was really TDC #1?  Ford used at least three different pointer/balancer combinations over the years.  Its really easy to get mismatched parts.  I'd verify this with a piston stop.

What kind of distributor/coil/wires are on the engine?

As for overheating, get a real gauge on it.  The factory gauge is a glorified idiot light.  There's a lot of reasons why they can be "off".  I would at least temporarily get a known good gauge on it.  Overheating isn't 190 degrees.  Overheating isn't engine temperature above t-stat opening temp.  Overheating is temperature continuing to rise in an uncontrolled fashion past 210-220 degrees.  With proper system pressure its not going to puke until it hits about 250. 

MS the engine was rebuilt = $3500.00 worth balanced flywheel to damper,30 over. Pertronix flame thrower 1,
matching coil, new 7mm wires.TKO Performance talked about the damper, I will try to get number 1 cylinder 
piston as high as I can (tdc) to check it with the damper. When I do some thing like this, I try and do it the right way,any time I cut corners it bites me in the a#s. All parts listed in first post were new.
mustang stu

you know how to make a piston stop?   To help find TDC.....

Timing-timing-timing !!  What it sounds like to me......Find true TDC....install a timing tape on the balancer and it will give you ALL KINDS of good tuning info.
Check for vacuum leaks (especially around the carb base). BOTH of these things -can- cause over heating.
Like TKO said....190 ain't over heating.....200+ IMHO is over heating. Different radiator caps (higher number) can help with boil overs/over heating.
Last thing to mess with is the carb. Dial in the timing....-maybe- a lower thermostat(might need a spring in the lower hose?!) No vac. leaks then finish off with carb adjust.

Food for thought..........with 110*LSA the cam -may-be a little snotty at idle. One trick to clean that up is A LOT of initial timing. (10 degrees shore-ain't enuff!)
We'll get it though!!
6sally6

The coil is it feed with 12 volt or 6-9 volt ? If the coil is a 12 volt coil and you are feeding 6-9 volt thru the resistor wire you get kind of this, Under load it will backfire and run like crap. 

Ron68 wrote:

You should be running a 195 degree stat. That should be sufficient for proper running temperature. If you are running hot, a lower temp stat won't fix your problem. You need to find the cause of the overheating and not try a band aid like a lower temp stat. The suggestions about your timing should be checked out as improper timing will cause overheating and poor performance. Keep us posted on what you find out with the timing.

Yep, all a lower temp t-stat does is delay the overheating a little bit. 
 

I know you said the engine was rebuilt, don't rule out a possible bad seating intake valve.  Suggest performing a compression check if all aspects of the ignition system checks out OK.

Why 10 degrees?
Have you tried 12-14?

Remember the 70’s?
They retarded timing to get engine temperatures up to burn cleaner.

I did same thing.  My timing wasn’t advanced enough for the cam.  Initially I didn’t have a timing light.

Something to look at.

Last edited by Nos681 (12/14/2020 7:37 PM)