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I finally finished wiring the shop and game room. Can’t count how many times I went back to the store for more single gang boxes. Kept thinking of stuff to add.
Insulation is complete now. Tomorrow, the sheetrock crew starts. Glad it is them and not me. They will do tape, float, texture and sealer. Then we paint. Ordered the hickory plank engineered flooring for the gameroom and bathroom tile floor today. Still undecided on what to do with garage floor. I spent $9k on a second driveway out the north side, so something else might get cut. Hope to have it complete in a month.
Last edited by MS (6/18/2020 6:13 PM)
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Looks real nice. It's hold cars and boats real good. Nice sunset picture.
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Me jealous!
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Get that pristine concrete sealed (and painted?) before you spill petroleum products on it by mistake.
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lowercasesteve wrote:
Get that pristine concrete sealed (and painted?) before you spill petroleum products on it by mistake.
Good point!!
How long does the concrete have to "sit" before it can be sealed and painted/stained. Doesn't it hafta 'out-gas' or something?!
Just wonder'in......
6sal6
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Looking real good Steve.
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I like the Pex piping, shouldn't have to worry about it freezing. The blocking for upper cabinets is sure better than trying to find studs later on too.
There will be at least three more things you want to add once the drywall goes up!! Do you have both of your AC units in that panel?
That’s not a driveway, it’s a burnout box and launch pad!!!!!
Last edited by Bolted to Floor (6/18/2020 10:35 PM)
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Looks great Steve.
That’s a beautiful area.
I know that’s why my dad moved there.
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Coming along nicely!
In terms of the floors, I have done a couple of garage floors, including my current one with, with epoxy. The first two I did, I used U-Coat It. That stuff was great. Very affordable, easy to apply and held up very well to regular shop abuse/misuse and automotive chemicals and never showed signs of wear after several years. Sold those houses at least 10 years ago, so can't say what they look like now, but I am sure the floors still look good.
In my new garage, I let the guy who poured my floor talk me into using Sherwin Williams' industrial epoxy floor coating. It is no where near as good as U-Coat It. It scratches easily, shows tire prints and has chipped by dropping something as light a 5/8" box wrench.
If I were to do it again, I think I would just go with a high quality concrete sealer with a little color tint of your choice. It will look good and hold up better than epoxy, especially if you plan on doing any welding on it. Splatter is not kind to an epoxy floor coating.
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Any water lines can freeze and fail. If freezing is a possibility make sure they get the insulation behind the pipes. I will say whoever did the plumbing did a nice job. So often I see them forgo 90s and just bend the tubing in a radius. Then the feeds don't stick out of the wall straight. It just looks terrible.
I'll ask my associate who handles all the painting for my business what we've been using for floor epoxy. We do a fair amount of industrial sites and whatever he has been using on those floors has held up really well to traffic, forklifts, and chemicals. And that's on old concrete
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Didn’t Steve say he used to do hanger floors, I’m sure he’ll know what to do.
Remember his avatar signature burn out, that on the new concrete and clear coated would be the cat’s meow.
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Nice looking shop Steve. Plenty of planning and I can see that it is well thought out. Better to be sure before the sheetrock goes on I say. What's the chances of you bumping out a wall and doing an extension later on?
Loved the sunset, big sky country right there...
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It's going to be a really nice watering hole; not to mention Outstanding shop!
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Chaplin, thanks for the flooring input. Yes, I used to design and install concrete and floor coatings in airplane factories. But, my budget does not allow for the “good stuff” Stonhard brand epoxy stuff we used there.
I kind of like that idea about the stained and sealed floor coating. Any more info on brands, installation and cost? All I really need is something to keep concrete dust from forming on everything for the next 100 years. Heck, one friend used to put Mop-n-Glo on his floors every few months. They looked great until it started wearing off.
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Amazing he's not on two sets of stilts strapped together. I've seen that more times that I care to admit...
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LOL, nice picture!
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Did'ja catch him?
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This afternoon that same guy put two five gallon paint buckets one atop the other, stood on top of it, and scooted down the entire length of a wall putting screws in the drywall. Sorry, but I would just never have even thought of doing something like that.
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The only thing that nice long driveway needs now is an MS '66 Mustang dual signature.....:-) That's gonna be a really nice shop. Congrats!
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MS wrote:
Chaplin, thanks for the flooring input. Yes, I used to design and install concrete and floor coatings in airplane factories. But, my budget does not allow for the “good stuff” Stonhard brand epoxy stuff we used there.
I kind of like that idea about the stained and sealed floor coating. Any more info on brands, installation and cost? All I really need is something to keep concrete dust from forming on everything for the next 100 years. Heck, one friend used to put Mop-n-Glo on his floors every few months. They looked great until it started wearing off.
In the last year before I retired, we had the floor done in our large hangar in Seattle. There was three bays, and the crew that came in sanded all the old covering off down to bare concrete, then they sealed all the joints flush, then painted two coats of an epoxy coating. We waited the specified amount of time for it to cure, then moved an aircraft on to it. When we rolled the aircraft out the next morning, some of the coating stuck to the tires and pulled up. They had to come back and patch the spots and we waited even longer. Finally got it right, after 6 months to do all three bays.
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MS wrote:
This afternoon that same guy put two five gallon paint buckets one atop the other, stood on top of it, and scooted down the entire length of a wall putting screws in the drywall. Sorry, but I would just never have even thought of doing something like that.
Years ago onJuly 3, 1996, to be exact, I was installing a garage door in the back of the garage for a drive through arrangement. I used a 5 gallon bucket upside down as a step stool. I was on the bucket when it decided it wanted to be on the other side of the garage. I fell and landed on a sharp corner of the wood burning stove and then to the concrete. I thought I had broken my hip it hurt so bad. Ended up just tearing a big chunk out of the back of my hamstring. To this day it still bothers me and I do not use 5 gallon buckets as step stools.
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"long-time-a-go....when-I-wuz-a-welder. I stood on a many 5 gallon bucket to weld pipe/electrical hangers and such. EZ to move and usually was just the right height.
Since it was a federal job I could have requested safety staging complete with hand rails and toe boards properly installed and 'inspected' before ever stepping on it. By the time it was completed I would prolly be on another job...the insulators would have come AND the painters...then it would be nearly impossible to get to the hangers!!
Just do it and move on.......... Federal guv-mint.....gotta love the efficiency.
6sal6
PS......ANYBODY gonna answer my question about HOW LONG to wait before painting/staining 'sea-mint' floorz?!!
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I've heard 4 weeks. If you're building a building on the concrete, by the time the sheet rockers are done, you're months out, so...
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Not sure Sal, I've been waiting 3 decades.
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