Concrete curing is a lengthy process.  The strength of concrete continues to increase for years after its poured.  The standard for strength measurement is 28 days, but that is just a date at which it needs to meet or exceed its design strength.  You can walk on it the next day.  If I need to drill it for anchors I really like to let it set over a weekend.  Its definitely still "green" for a week.  Its usually recommend that you avoid parking on it for two weeks.  All told, I'd wait at least a month to put anything on it sealer or coating wise, unless the product I was using said otherwise. 

If it were me I'd wait as long as possible.  You also don't want to get anything on it that will soak into the pores like oil.  Its about impossible to completely remove.  Most of the epoxies today are laytex based due to the EPA's crusade to remove VOCs from everything.  An oil based paint probably wouldn't be effected by the oil, but good luck finding any.  If the finish is nice I would just use a sealer.  You could put some tint in it as mentioned. 

MS wrote:

Sheetrocking today

This guy is a Liability to your homeowners insurance,  He falls, guess who he sues?????
On another note, pex piping will swell a mile before it bursts, the fittings they just blow out!  I would say the threat of them freezing in that part of Texas is very low

Slab was poured in November.  It is plenty cured enough for a sealer.  Right now, the entire garage floor is covered with cardboard, all joints securely taped.   Generally, two months is plenty of time for any moisture close to the surface to be gone.  The gameroom is getting hickory, engineered hardwood planks.  I am considering a light stain with sealer on it the garage floor.  A neighbor has that for the floors in his house.

A test on the Pex, to convince me, used a six inch piece of 3/4” with 100% fill of water, plugged both ends. Placed in freezer for a week.  It did not burst, so any fears of freeze damage are unwarranted, especially in an insulated building in south Texas.  I used both the stainless and copper compression rings on this installation.  That stuff goes together so easy, it is just scary to think it will still not be leaking in 20 years. I see why plumbers like it compared to PVC or copper.

Ultimately time's going to tell on the PEX.  Its certainly got its advantages, but so did polybutylene.  If the plastic is hearty enough, like the black stuff they use for wells I'm sure it will be fine if the fittings don't fail (I don't think metal fittings will).  PEX can still break from freezing, I've seen it happen.  Its more resistant than any other type of pipe, but in the right conditions anything's possible.  I don't regard this as a real concern given where you are. 

Copper is seeing a resurgence thanks to low price, perceived quality, and the wonder that is the Pro Press.  Most big plumbing outfits don't want their techs soldering anything anymore, so the Pro Press solves that problem.  With battery operated pipe cutters running copper is now pretty fast and efficient.  Its biggest problem IMO is that the price can fluctuate, and you need to use the good copper (K), not the cheap stuff. 

Rich, I'm amazed at what you and Bonnie accomplished with your house. I can see the sheer amount of work that went into it. I think I'm quite handy around the house ... but nothing on that scale.
At least you've got a reason for being a grumpy old man.  
I'm still tryin' to find mine.

TKOPerformance wrote:

red351 wrote:

Never heard of K. It was M or L ,but we quit with the radiant heat and just plain pluming a few years  back when we finish restoring this 1852 farm haus' that was about to be taken down.    Should have started new...    23 yrs later, it's done, and we did 100% of the work ourselves as we could afforded it. Were tired and just worn out after all of this, and maybe a little crabby.

They may not sell K at the regular home stores.  M was soft copper.  Usually could be bent without kinking into a large radius.  Its since been banned for use on potable water systems.  L is the next step up, but it has more impurities in it and is softer.  I find L is more prone to corrosion than K. 

I guess I know where to come when I need plumbing advice. 

Steve, don't forget to add your signature to the concrete before it's sealed.