It’s such a major undertaking to rewire a car. Are you starting from scratch by copying what Ford did, making use of a factory type harness, or customizing some one’s kit? I find making sketches of what I intend to do helps a lot. It creates a plan that I can come back to if I walk away for a week or two. I still have to relearn where I was, but ht etime I spend scratching my head wondering what the hell I was thinking is cut way down.
For me, I was looking to have the wiring routed around the car with as few paths possible for wire coming from the car onto the motor, if that makes sense. I have 3 places…back of the intake, across the valve cover for distributor and at the alternator. I used a Painless kit on my 67 and routed it through the car following the same path Ford did. It’s what made the most sense for me. So… the front exterior lighting, brake switch, wires for alternator to what would have been a voltage regulator, low pressure switch for the AC, starter solenoid, and horn all enter the engine compartment on the driver side following the apron to the core support. It passed through the core support down low went across the front and back through the core support to the solenoid and alternator. The headlight relays are up high on the driver side apron. Head lights and turn signals are dropped off at the front corners, the two wires for the voltage regulator were extended around to the alternator and starter relay, I think….it’s been a few days!!
The factory oil pressure switch & water temperature, an Autometer oil pressure & water temperature, AC compressor power, choke, and reverse lights all come from the area you are talking about. The spark box for the Duraspark is mounted midway on the Apron on the driver’s side with wiring routed across the valve cover to the coil and distributor. It makes for a nice clean installation. I do have 4 fuse blocks mounted below the starter solenoid. There is a main fuse from the alternator, one for the Painless harness fuse block, one for the auxiliary fuse block, and the last is for the amp. It makes for a nice clean installation.
The power cable for the trunk mounted amp runs in the fender well on the passenger side. It was a good path for easy access to the interior. What is not appealing to you about that route now? I see your relays look like someone crimped those ends onto them before loading into the plastic housings. With a little patience and the right tool, they can be removed to make changes. If all else fails, but splices and heat shrink to make changes. I am curious….why do you need a relay for the alternator and choke?
How do you intend to fuse all of the loads? I see one fuse mounted on the apron below the starter solenoid.
I will try to get my pictures updated in the build section for My Cars. It might help.
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50vert wrote:
