"YOU ax'en me Walt??? ....You are the (one of) electritical guru on here!!!"
6sal6

Replaced coil twice and ignition module?
Am i understanding correctly?

Do you have power going to ignition module?
Fusible link or inline fuse?

Do you have another reluctor?
Possible that it got demagnetized with ignition on and charger going overnight.

The reluctor is magnetized normally.

Last edited by Nos681 (9/25/2020 6:11 PM)

If you pull distributor and spin it, as the reluctor tabs pass the pickup coil, you should get a pulse.

I haven’t a clue voltage wise...milliamps my guess.

I’m sure you have an oscilloscope.
Haven’t touched one in years.

A real electrical engineer could tell ya how to do it.
Not me.

Another place to inspect are the wires going to the pick up coil in distributor.
The wires have to move with vacuum advance...a mechanical problem again?😁

This has been frustrating but I'm thinking I got 2 bad Dura Sparks. I replaced the first after leaving  the key on but still didn't start. After multiple testing I bought another module and still no start.
Recap:
Mike & MS: "YOU ax'en me Walt???    ....You are the (one of) electritical guru on here!!!" 
My head was hurting from beating it off the wall, I was willing to try anything. LOL

NOS:
Replaced coil twice and ignition module?
Am i understanding correctly?
Actually purchased a second Module (original +2) I had a coil 0n the shelf that I tried. It worked the last time used.
Do you have power going to ignition module?
Fusible link or inline fuse?
Yes, voltage is good to coil and module with key on.
Do you have another reluctor?
Possible that it got demagnetized with ignition on and charger going overnight.
The reluctor is magnetized normally.
No but I can check and see if I can buy one without buying a whole distributer.
If you pull distributor and spin it, as the reluctor tabs pass the pickup coil, you should get a pulse.
I haven’t a clue voltage wise...milliamps my guess.
I’m sure you have an oscilloscope.
Haven’t touched one in years.
A real electrical engineer could tell ya how to do it.
Not me.
I unplugged the distributer and and connected a Simpson Meter on milli volts. (A simpson is a old style meter with a needle not digital, it will react faster that digital for those who may not know) I cranked the motor and got pulses. Connected it to the other end of wires near the Dura Spark and got pulses there too. Not sure how large the pulses should be either.
Another place to inspect are the wires going to the pick up coil in distributor.
The wires have to move with vacuum advance...a mechanical problem again?
Everything looked good inside the distributer.

Barry:
Ground strap inside distributor??
Everything looked good inside the distributer.

Greg B:
Have you tried something as simple as putting a jumper wire on the duraspark module positive?
I thought about this 3 beers after quitting last night. May have damaged the ignition switch and loose power while cranking. Will try today.

John Ha:
I did the same thing a few years ago (left power applied for a long time without a running engine).  The Duraspark box was very warm and the car would crank but not fire.  I replaced the Duraspark box and all was good.  I don't recall the alternator being warm but didn't check it either.  You may have damaged something there too but you can have it checked
Still think I got bad Dura Sparks but thanks for reminding me about the 3G I might have to replace LOL!!!

I am going to buy another Module today and set up a test gig. Stay tuned. Same bat time same bat channel!

Last edited by wsinsle (9/26/2020 7:32 AM)

Can't answer about the Dura Spark, but it is common for the alternator to get warm when leaving the key on for extended periods. I did the same thing when I was replacing the drive belt, had the belt off, keyed the vehicle on for some reason and then got distracted. Came back a few hours later and the pulley was super hot to the touch. I thought I had ruined a new alternator. After speaking to the place that built the alternator they said it is quite common. So hopefully that removes one of your worries

So after getting my 3rd Dura Spark module, one that actually worked, I did some more testing. Found out the coil was bad too. It tested OK with the ohm meter but no spark out on my test jig. So go get a new 12 volt coil tomorrow and should fire up.

wsinsle wrote:

So after getting my 3rd Dura Spark module, one that actually worked, I did some more testing. Found out the coil was bad too. It tested OK with the ohm meter but no spark out on my test jig. So go get a new 12 volt coil tomorrow and should fire up.

Let me guess ..........Advance Auto Parts!
6sal6
 

I just ordered a Motorcraft module for my conversion which cost $50. I figured the extra dollars spent would pay for the labor of having to R&R the cheap module. That said, I'm sure I've jinxed the Ford piece.

I bought Motorcraft box and coil through Rockauto.

Bearing Bob wrote:

I just ordered a Motorcraft module for my conversion which cost $50. I figured the extra dollars spent would pay for the labor of having to R&R the cheap module. That said, I'm sure I've jinxed the Ford piece.

What! Conversion! Say it aint so!

RV6 wrote:

Bearing Bob wrote:

I just ordered a Motorcraft module for my conversion which cost $50. I figured the extra dollars spent would pay for the labor of having to R&R the cheap module. That said, I'm sure I've jinxed the Ford piece.

What! Conversion! Say it aint so!

Well... as soon as I started ordering parts for the Duraspark conversion, old Rosie started running way better than ever. Not sure how long she can keep it up, so I'll keep those DS parts on stand by.