I used AAW in my 68 and bought the special crimp tools.
All my firewall forward wires exit the cabin to under fender through splash shields enclosed in surplus dishwasher drain hoses sealed at both ends on both sides.
In retro should have used all Weatherpak where possible, the supplied ones are ancient Delco  type.
One of my goals was to hide under hood wiring and “trunk the battery”
The stock location of the fuse box is a pain and hard to access, find a better place , perhaps glove box area.
Lay out the stock harness and use it to copy the route of the new wires to o/e components, leave wires long and terminate after final harness location.
I used tie wraps mostly to se use the wires, braided wrap is nice if needed underhood.
Don’t use electrical tape, it goes gooey in short order, I used non sticky harness tape in a few places.
That’s all I got for now unless my memory gets jogged.

I wrap the exposed portions of the harness in my mustang with high quality electrical tape.  Though friction tape is another option that doesn't leave a residue and still looks period correct. 

I'll use split loom for areas that aren't easily seen, because it makes working on the harness a lot easier in the future. 

Last edited by TKOPerformance (9/26/2020 1:15 PM)

I always thought of 3M Scotch 33 as a high quality electrical tape.....it ain’t so any more. That stuff will be gooey and sticky in short order sticking to you, the wire, and anything else it touches. I like the braided sleeve material. McMaster Carr has one that looks just like the stuff Painless sells. The ends can be secured with heat shrink or friction tape. I made a reference to it here not to long ago. Should be able to do a search and find it. 

The down side to any type of tape is that wire you decide to add after it’s all taped!!! 

If you have to add in connectors, weather packs are a good choice. There are a few on my car. 

Bullet Bob has a nice list of electrical goodies he has shared will several on the site. It helped me a great deal. 

Before you start, take the time to think about what you want for electrical components. Plan as much as you can for adding any items that are not included in the harness you bought. Make a diagram to use as your blueprint of where it will all be located. Good planning leads to a quality product, not something that looks like a series of afterthought!!

Make notes in your instructions pamphlet that came with your harness and don’t loose it. If they are like Painless, changes get made to harnesses and the instructions get revised. Older revisions are not always available if you loose yours. Good luck. 

I used split loom in some  areas. I also ran some flexible conduit in the passenger fender well. I ran it from the top rear hood area to the front lower hood area. 

I re did the entire wiring harness in my '66 w/ a 5.0 swap.  Bought an EFI harness and 1966 chassis harness from painless wiring.

1) ground ground ground.  Make sure you utilize proper grounds.  

2) Don't use that hard plastic electrical tape.  Use the stuff that BMW uses.  It's almost like a felt on the outside.  Looks just as good if not better and doesn't get all sticky and messy over time.  You can find it on Amazon.

3) One of those quick wire stripper tools are a god send.  

4) Quality electrical braiding can be found in different sizes and large rolls on amazon.  

5) There are these push in zip ties (also found on amazon) that work great for sheetmetal.  you just drill a .250 hole and press in and then you have a solid anchor for your wires.  They come in packs of 25 so if you need to redo some wiring just cut it off and replace.

6) If you were going to add some accessories or add ons like an electrical fan, custom audio system, fog lights, multi spark ignition, etc.... now would be the time.  Running wires later sucks.