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Besides stock type radiators (65-70), what are y’all using?
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I have a stock 289 2bl and installed the American Eagle 2 core 1" tube stock size in my 65 with a Derale fan (#16217) mounted on a home made shroud, controlled by Autocoolguy. I have Vintage Air also. What is nice is that you can still remove the fan/shroud without pulling anything else as I found out on my last road trip when the keeper came off the fan.
Last edited by Cab4word67 (10/30/2020 10:08 AM)
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This is what I'm planning on dropping into my 1966 Coupe that has a 5.0. Pricey but it's a complete kit. Most importantly it's max size that's designed to fit.
Hoping they might have a thanksgiving day sale or something.
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What kind of mods are required for a foxbody radiator?
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I used the ACP Maxcore radiator. Right now I have the factory size 65-66 rad with a Spal fan. It seems to keep the engine cool enough, but I don't have any real road miles on the car yet. It will idle all day long and stay at about 195.
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TremendousWand wrote:
This is what I'm planning on dropping into my 1966 Coupe that has a 5.0. Pricey but it's a complete kit. Most importantly it's max size that's designed to fit.
Hoping they might have a thanksgiving day sale or something.
I haven't seen that set up before. It is pricey, but seems like a nice set up. My only concern with that set up would be finding a replacement rad and what it would cost (I assume you could only buy it from them) if it started to leak or ate a rock while going down the road.
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That "LOOKS" cool...no pun intended. Butt (TS&T), I gotta wonder why my $230 Virginia Classics aluminum radiator (20", two row, 1" tubes) with a homebrew shroud and a seven blade mechanical clutch fan, and a coil of gas-rod in the lower hose won't go over 195 (Stat) except when I took it to Las Vegas in June a couple of years ago and sitting on I-15 for a half hour it got up to 210 or so with the AC going full bore.
I just can't help but wonder how I got so lucky and every one else has so much heating...or should I say cooling troubles.
Oh, and we put the same setup in the Falcon project and it behaves the same way, except when it put a fan blade through the hood, but that's fixed now. Highway, traffic, idling, parades...it just runs at the stat. I don't understand.
I'm serious and I'm not trying to be snotty...no really. Keeping an engine reasonably cool should not be rocket science...a little thermal dynamics maybe but.... When I first put ours together way back in Ought 6 or 7 it was okay at low speeds but wanted to warm up a bit above 50 mph or so. When we started getting ready to attend the 2010 Bash in Waxahachie, TX I decided that it had to run cool. So in the interest of time I took the "shotgun" approach. I changed the copper four tube, 20" radiator to the aluminum. I bought a new fan clutch, and I wound a length of 1/16" gas rod around a big socket and stuffed it into the lower hose. Car has never gotten hot since...I'm pretty sure it was the coil in the lower hose that did the trick but there's no going back.
My point here is that it usually is something simple or at least not what you are thinking.
A proper shroud...PROPER SHROUD...makes a huge difference. Whatever fan you use it's gotta pull ALLl the air THROUGH the radiator. If the lower hose is collapsing at higher speed it will shut off flow. If the block is full of rust and crap it will run hot. If the timing isn't set properly it can run hot. If it's just a tad lean it will run hot. If the fuel system isn't keeping the carb bowl full it will go lean and get hot...and the hotter it gets, the leaner it gets, and the hotter it gets, on and on.
I guess I'm just saying to do all the simple (inexpensive) stuff first. I've been doing this crap for 60 years and in my experience simple problems are rarely cured by standing back and throwing money at them...and believe me I learned that the hard (expensive) way.
Just sayin'
BB1
Online!
If in doubt, read Bullet’s post again.
Most overheating is caused by crud and rust buildup inside the block and heads. Or something stupid like a wad of RTV blocking the timing cover passages. No amount of shiny new radiator will cure either problem.
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Bullet Bob wrote:
That "LOOKS" cool...no pun intended. Butt (TS&T), I gotta wonder why my $230 Virginia Classics aluminum radiator (20", two row, 1" tubes) with a homebrew shroud and a seven blade mechanical clutch fan, and a coil of gas-rod in the lower hose won't go over 195 (Stat) except when I took it to Las Vegas in June a couple of years ago and sitting on I-15 for a half hour it got up to 210 or so with the AC going full bore.
I just can't help but wonder how I got so lucky and every one else has so much heating...or should I say cooling troubles.
Oh, and we put the same setup in the Falcon project and it behaves the same way, except when it put a fan blade through the hood, but that's fixed now. Highway, traffic, idling, parades...it just runs at the stat. I don't understand.
I'm serious and I'm not trying to be snotty...no really. Keeping an engine reasonably cool should not be rocket science...a little thermal dynamics maybe but.... When I first put ours together way back in Ought 6 or 7 it was okay at low speeds but wanted to warm up a bit above 50 mph or so. When we started getting ready to attend the 2010 Bash in Waxahachie, TX I decided that it had to run cool. So in the interest of time I took the "shotgun" approach. I changed the copper four tube, 20" radiator to the aluminum. I bought a new fan clutch, and I wound a length of 1/16" gas rod around a big socket and stuffed it into the lower hose. Car has never gotten hot since...I'm pretty sure it was the coil in the lower hose that did the trick but there's no going back.
My point here is that it usually is something simple or at least not what you are thinking.
A proper shroud...PROPER SHROUD...makes a huge difference. Whatever fan you use it's gotta pull ALLl the air THROUGH the radiator. If the lower hose is collapsing at higher speed it will shut off flow. If the block is full of rust and crap it will run hot. If the timing isn't set properly it can run hot. If it's just a tad lean it will run hot. If the fuel system isn't keeping the carb bowl full it will go lean and get hot...and the hotter it gets, the leaner it gets, and the hotter it gets, on and on.
I guess I'm just saying to do all the simple (inexpensive) stuff first. I've been doing this crap for 60 years and in my experience simple problems are rarely cured by standing back and throwing money at them...and believe me I learned that the hard (expensive) way.
Just sayin'
BB1
Great explanation.....you will now be known as, "Radiator Robert" or RR for short!
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More likely BSB, but thanks Joshie.
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