TKO is right.  You gotta troubleshoot this one.  The next time this happens...STOP!  I don't mean to offend but I'm going to assume that you are not comfortable working on or troubleshooting automotive electrical systems. If I am mistaken please say so.
Otherwise, take your brand new HF digital VOM (that's Volt-Ohm Meter), set it on the 20 volt VDC scale, use you new alligator clip jumper leads to connect the black lead of the meter to the battery negative clamp, connect the red (positive) lead of the meter to the "S" terminal of the solenoid without removing or disturbing the wire connected there.  Watch the meter while having someone else turn the key to the "Start" position.  If the VOM reads +- 12 volts you are getting voltage from the Ignition switch but it isn't making the solenoid close.  So, now take the red jumper loose from the VOM lead and, leaving it connected to the "S" terminal of the solenoid, touch the other end to the battery positive post.  If the engine turns over...may actually try to start if the Painless is set up like stock...the problem is probably in the various connections from the "S" terminal of the solenoid to the Ignition switch "S" terminal.  Like, neutral safety switch on the transmission, or any bulkhead or firewall connectors, or crimp on terminals...bad/dirty/weak connection.
If the engine still does not turn over take a couple of other jumpers and connect them from the body or mount flange of the solenoid to the negative post of the battery.  Now touch the red wire from the "S" terminal to the positive post of the battery.  If nothing still happens get back to us.

I know this is can be confusing but its really pretty simple.  You just need to keep in mind that car wiring normally uses just one "hot" wire for a circuit.  Most devices are grounded and the chassis acts as the second wire in the circuit.  If something doesn't work it's either bad or not getting voltage or not properly connected to the negative post of the battery through the ground (chassis) connection.

Hope this helps.

BB1

Last edited by Bullet Bob (11/08/2020 9:45 PM)

One thing to add, the start circuit to the solenoid is completed via the mounting bolts. Negative is the body of the car. Where the solenoid mounts to the body you should have a clean connection, no paint, this will stop the connection from making up.

Seems like the wipers and radio, etc should NOT be functional when the key is turned to START position.   Can someone who has their car available check that for us?   With radio, ac, wipers on when trying to start the car, I think I remember they accessories should be bypassed during that START procedure.  They should STOP while cranking the starter.

My point is:  if all that stuff works in START position, something is wired wrong.

And also check that neutral safety switch as bob suggested.

MS wrote:

My point is: if all that stuff works in START position, something is wired wrong.

And also check that neutral safety switch as bob suggested.

I keep thinking back to this, could the whole switch assembly be turning when rotating the key. Never making it to the start position?
The other questions would be, How long has the painless wire system been installed. Has everything worked for a long while since installing the painless wiring? Did this start after installing new wiring?
I agree that's something weird.

That's a lot to think about and digest. I was not driving the car very often due to several reasons, moving, storage, registration, keeping/restoring 3 other cars and on and on. I would always start it every week or two and bring it up to temp. and usually a trip around the block to keep everything moving. It was rewired about 12 years ago. Two of my cars are British which makes me very careful about grounds and keeping them clean. I always go to bare metal although in 12 years rust will form. The car was mostly garage kept but always covered.
I explained what I went through and changed out. I did play with the gearshift thinking it might be the neutral switch. It makes sense that all power would be diverted only to starting the car. Painless prints where each wire goes every 9" or so. The wire on the switch blade that is marked for the voltage solenoid is the one that goes to the solenoid and both have the came color code so I feel confident they are correct. As for the switch, There is some very slight movement when the keys is turned. I can see it in the Bezel, but it is slight. I can feel the individual clicks as it goes through the 4 different stages and the 'Start' has a good return spring. I am away from the car presently and won't be home until Sat. but I do not remember if anything worked on 'Acc.' or 'On'. When I get home I'll check that and what TKO & BB1 suggested as well as the neutral switch.
Thanks a bunch
rap

Thank you TKO, BB, BobE, Ron68, swindle, & MS! Sorry it took so long to get back to you all. It got cold and my car is out side and covered. I also needed a break. I took snippets from all your answers and checked everything and I am sure I cleaned more then I needed to but no harm in that.

It was a dead wire from the switch to the solenoid. I tried to pull the wire out to try and see if I could actually see the problem but I could not, it broke underneath the dash and I did not care to make myself into a pretzel to get it out. So, car is back running with lots of clean ground connections at the solenoid and the new main ground strap plus a few other places. Thanks again!
Randy