Starting your rebuild eh?😎

I know a guy in upstate New York that has Allisons stacked like cord wood.  Merlins too.

Seriously though, if you're going to have the rods rebuilt anyway (which, you should as they are the most highly stressed part of the engine), you will be about the same cost wise to just buy a budget set of rods from Eagle.  Polishing them doesn't really do much.  You would need to have them Magnafluxed to make sure they are not cracked, then polish them, and then have them shot peened.  Then resize the big ends,and  have new bolts installed.  On the other hand you can buy a set of entry level rods for $350-$400.  Once the cheap rods came out I stopped rebuilding rods for engine builds.  Wasn't worth my time or money. 

The WYAIT MONSTER is lurking....watching...waiting...

I don't know why this is not clicking with me, maybe later it will. But if I understand correctly I don't need the wire from the solenoid to the coil with a 12 v coil. 
I did come up with the idea of just mounting the stock solenoid down behind the shock tower near the frame rail. But if I have to have a relay then using the stock one now it will likely never fail.
All ideas and drawings welcome

So...the long and the longer of it.  If you have a 12V coil...that means one that can survive with 12V running to it continuously, you can run the red/blue wire at the solenoid directly to the small lug on the mini starter and run the battery positive cable directly to the big lug on the mini starter. This means some sort of aftermarket coil...not a stock coil which is designed to run on approx. 9 volts continuously, hence, the infamous "pink" resistor wire from the ignition switch to the coil. 
The black/yellow wire, as well as any other wires that are connected to the pos. side of the solenoid, will also need to be connected to the big lug of the mini .  This is to provide cabin power as the stock setup did.
The brown wire at the "I" lug of the solenoid can be taped up and left to dangle or removed ...it's no longer needed if your coil takes full 12 volt continuous.  And, the stock solenoid can be removed.

Butt (TS&T) if you are using a stock coil you need a way to provide 12 volt to the coil DURING STARTUP.  This can be accomplished two ways.  One:  By installing a small Bosch type relay that closes during start and sends 12 v to the coil +.  Or two:  By leaving the stock solenoid in place with the brown wire attached and running the red/blue wire and the positive battery cable to both the solenoid and the mini starter.   I'll be happy to make up a drawing if 'lectriciy ain't your gig, Chris. No offense intended, it ain't for everyone.

Now, with my help, you should be totally cornfused.

BB

Last edited by Bullet Bob (11/19/2020 8:46 PM)

The jumper that connects to the Pink wire comes of of the "C" (coil) terminal of the switch then plugs into the Pink resistor wire.  The nichrome resistor wire has to be of a specified length to drop the voltage at normal coil current so to get that length they might have it looping around various places.  But...it ends up at the inboard firewall connector where it becomes the red/green wire on the engine side.  The problem I got into is that you can easily disconnect the switch end of the pink wire at the bullet connector but the firewall end is molded into the firewall connector.  If you cut the pink wire near the firewall and splice on a solid wire back to the switch, you'll still have a couple of inches of resistor wire going into the firewall connector...and that won't work.  It will get very hot and you'll let the smoke out of that little piece of nichrome wire...and make a mess.  So, I found that I had to by-pass the firewall connector with the replacement solid wire and tie it back onto the red/green coil wire forward of the firewall.  Think small hole with grommet.
The red/blue wire connects to the "S" terminal of the ign. switch and will connect to a little harness that runs down to the transmission neutral safety/backup light switch then back up to the firewall connector and out to the starter solenoid. 
The "always hot" yellow wire connects to the "B" terminal of the ign. switch...battery power.
The black/green "accessory" wire connects to the center lug of the ign. switch.  Mine is a #10 screw lug but your's could be different, I guess, mine is a 66.

Forward of the firewall, the red/blue wire goes to the solenoid (S).  The red/green wire goes to the coil (+).  The brown wire comes from the solenoid (I) and ties into the red/green wire at the firewall connector.  I'm not sure how they did the 65 but our 66 looked like Rube G. figured it out.  The brown wire came into the firewall connector from the engine side, passed through the firewall to the cabin, then immediately looped back into the same connector and was molded into the same terminal as the Pink wire.  Why they didn't just run it along with the red/green to the coil I'll never know but that's how ours was connected.  Really doesn't matter if you are running a 12 volt coil.  The brown wire can just be abandoned in place.

Now I know I have you confused but I don't know any other way to explain this setup.

BB
 

wsinsle wrote:

you splain better than I do Lucy-Bob

Good to hear/see you on here, Walt.  Don't hear a lot from you but it's always good.  Our best to Brenda and the family.  Hope you guys can make the next bash...whenever that will be allowed.
I sicked someone onto you regarding a low fuel light a while back...don't know if they ever contacted you. 

Bob
 

 Figured since the block was getting cleaned and serviced I should clean under the hood too. Got the wires figured out. Just wraped them all up and will connect them to the radio antena output (should help AM reception) also replacing the under the hood wires as they were rather stiff atfter 55 years. Not bad for first coat.

Last edited by Cab4word67 (11/28/2020 10:33 PM)