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1/16/2021 7:00 AM  #1


T10to T5 conversion

I have put this off long enough. before I start on this conversion from the T10 to T5 I would like to know that I have all the parts to do this swap. I enjoy driving my car and since money is really tight right now I want to be sure I have every thing on had that is required.
I have the clutch peddle quadrant welded, I have clutch cable, the bracket that attaches to the top of the pinch weld near the top of the fire wall, transmission brace and the mount, and of course the T5 and shifter, and bell housing,  speedometer cable and the starter. the donor car was an 89 mustang gt all the materials I've listed were bought from MS. AM I LEAVINF ANYTHING OUT?
 since I am running the t10, I am guessing I will have to run the flywheel that is 10" the engine is a 74 302 and the balance for that engine would require the original fly wheel? EDITED. i have everything form the donor 89 mustang gt, from the engine to tail shaft. the t5 is goiing in  my car that is already a standard t 10.

Last edited by val fulesday (1/16/2021 9:49 AM)

 

1/16/2021 7:43 AM  #2


Re: T10to T5 conversion

You have the block plate for the T5 bellhousing I assume?

If the car was a factory manual trans the starter may be different.  When converting from auto to manual the auto starter works.  If you need a new starter I would get one for a '92 5.0 T5 application.  They are a lightweight gear reduction design, but cost the same as a regular starter.

You need a flywheel that uses the 28oz. imbalance with 157 teeth.  The larger flywheels won't fit in the T5 bellhousing.  You also need a clutch for a 5.0 Mustang.  The Ford Racing Cobra is a great clutch for stock or mildly modified engines. 

 

1/16/2021 9:16 AM  #3


Re: T10to T5 conversion

Don’t forget the pilot bushing. Also when I did mine Rosehill Performance had a fastener kit for the T5 conversion. It contained all of the fasteners needed for the swap and was very useful. Off hand I can’t remember what starter I used but I E mailed Bruce and Modern Driveline what trans,bell and flywheel I was using and he told me what starter to use.


"anyone that stops learning is old, whether at twenty or eighty"Henry Ford
 

1/16/2021 1:19 PM  #4


Re: T10to T5 conversion

TKOPerformance wrote:

You have the block plate for the T5 bellhousing I assume?

If the car was a factory manual trans the starter may be different.  When converting from auto to manual the auto starter works.  If you need a new starter I would get one for a '92 5.0 T5 application.  They are a lightweight gear reduction design, but cost the same as a regular starter.

You need a flywheel that uses the 28oz. imbalance with 157 teeth.  The larger flywheels won't fit in the T5 bellhousing.  You also need a clutch for a 5.0 Mustang.  The Ford Racing Cobra is a great clutch for stock or mildly modified engines. 

Good info that some aren't aware of.


Bob. 69 Mach 1, 393W, SMOD Toploader, Armstrong  steering, factory AC.
 

1/16/2021 8:12 PM  #5


Re: T10to T5 conversion

If you use the original flywheel, you will use the original starter. 

If you used the 5.0 flywheel ( which you cannot on a 74 engine) you would need the later starter, or an early starter for an automatic. 

You do know you will need to shorten the driveshaft.  The 7/16” bolts holding the bell to the block are longer than your original bolts.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

1/17/2021 7:33 AM  #6


Re: T10to T5 conversion

Bearing Bob wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

You have the block plate for the T5 bellhousing I assume?

If the car was a factory manual trans the starter may be different.  When converting from auto to manual the auto starter works.  If you need a new starter I would get one for a '92 5.0 T5 application.  They are a lightweight gear reduction design, but cost the same as a regular starter.

You need a flywheel that uses the 28oz. imbalance with 157 teeth.  The larger flywheels won't fit in the T5 bellhousing.  You also need a clutch for a 5.0 Mustang.  The Ford Racing Cobra is a great clutch for stock or mildly modified engines. 

Good info that some aren't aware of.

This may explain why I had to use two shims under my starter to make it work properly without that annoying noise.  Those shims definitely don't add up to 3/8" thickness, more like 1/8-3/16", but they were necessary nonetheless.

 

1/17/2021 7:36 AM  #7


Re: T10to T5 conversion

MS wrote:

If you use the original flywheel, you will use the original starter.

If you used the 5.0 flywheel ( which you cannot on a 74 engine) you would need the later starter, or an early starter for an automatic.

You do know you will need to shorten the driveshaft. The 7/16” bolts holding the bell to the block are longer than your original bolts.

Needing to modify your stock driveshaft, now is a good time to evaluate whether or not its worth spending money modifying.  I initially planned to reuse my stock shaft with the correct yoke and new u-joints.  When I took it to the shop to get it balanced they immediately talked me out of messing with it due to its age and condition.  If the shaft has a lot of pitting or any kind of rubber bonded harmonic dampening component on it I would highly advise you just get a new shaft made.  My new shaft cost me all of $250 on top of what I already had in u-joints and the yoke.  Cheap insurance. 

 

1/17/2021 9:44 AM  #8


Re: T10to T5 conversion

TKOPerformance wrote:

MS wrote:

If you use the original flywheel, you will use the original starter.

If you used the 5.0 flywheel ( which you cannot on a 74 engine) you would need the later starter, or an early starter for an automatic.

You do know you will need to shorten the driveshaft. The 7/16” bolts holding the bell to the block are longer than your original bolts.

Needing to modify your stock driveshaft, now is a good time to evaluate whether or not its worth spending money modifying.  I initially planned to reuse my stock shaft with the correct yoke and new u-joints.  When I took it to the shop to get it balanced they immediately talked me out of messing with it due to its age and condition.  If the shaft has a lot of pitting or any kind of rubber bonded harmonic dampening component on it I would highly advise you just get a new shaft made.  My new shaft cost me all of $250 on top of what I already had in u-joints and the yoke.  Cheap insurance. 

I had to use the 'automatic' starter (deeper depth for the drive gear) with the T5 flywheel, and also got a new driveshaft for my T5 conversion (which was shorter than the original).  I used a hydraulic clutch, so no useful info on that portion of the swap.  Also, had to enlarge the shifter opening slightly to make the installation easier (no lift, working on my back).


65 Fastback, 351W, 5-speed, 4 wheel discs, 9" rear,  R&C Front End.
 

Board footera


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