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Can someone with 4.5 leaf reverse eye springs get me a measurement from the rear wheel
Center to the fender lip?
I’m 90% sure that reverse eye is what I need but don’t want it too low either.
I love the way my 68 coupe sets right now with absolutely worn out stock springs and a 1/2” block.
If changing the springs I would really like to get rid of the blocks
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I've got 4.5 mid-eyes. Happy to give you a measurement on those if you would like.
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Yes, that would be great and good info to have for comparison
Thanks
Rick
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I have 4-leaf reverse eye springs and it is 13" from axle c/l to edge of fender opening. That is vertical up to the fender lip. That means yours might be 1/2" more - 13.5".
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ABDFI...............!
I mean....does it rattle....squeak...wallow(waller)....sag when trunk full ...Why chang'em if your pretty happy? New pair of shocks help?!
6sally6
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Sal,
The stock springs actually still ride decent, but I have two different size blocks in them so the car sets level. And the biggest reason is I’m tired of the wheel hop every time I launch a little aggressively.
I took the motor out to change one leaking head gasket which meant I did them both and all the other seals and gaskets.
Now I’m moving the battery to the trunk. And hey while the trans is out I e been wanting a better shifter for
The 5-speed. And while the seat is out it needs new seat buns.
So yea, mine as well do the lead springs while it’s on jack stands.
Motor out
Motor ready to go back
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Mine has 4.5 leaf reverse eye with 1/2” lowering blocks. 245x45-17 tire. No wheel hop. About 500hp.
Oops. Mine is 66, so not relevant.
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MS
I would think for these purposes that the rear fender shape is close enough to the same for a measurement between the fender lip and axle center. 66 or 68
You’re 245-45-17 is the same height as my 275-40-17.
But my biggest fear is the reverse eye would set it too low, but if you’re still using blocks, I should be safe.
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kardad wrote:
Yes, that would be great and good info to have for comparison
Thanks
Rick
It just occurred to me too that mine is a 64.5, but should be close enough. With a 245/45/17, 4.5 mid eyes and a VERY full 22 gal tank, I have 13 1/4" from center of wheel to the fender lip.
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kardad wrote:
Sal,
The stock springs actually still ride decent, but I have two different size blocks in them so the car sets level. And the biggest reason is I’m tired of the wheel hop every time I launch a little aggressively.
I took the motor out to change one leaking head gasket which meant I did them both and all the other seals and gaskets.
Now I’m moving the battery to the trunk. And hey while the trans is out I e been wanting a better shifter for
The 5-speed. And while the seat is out it needs new seat buns.
So yea, mine as well do the lead springs while it’s on jack stands.
Motor out
Motor ready to go back
NUFF SAID!!!!!
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HEY !!
would you experts please explain to me what tire or rim size has to do with the measurement between center of axel to fender / rear quarter bottom lip ??..
I do understand that tire / rim size play a part in finish ride height from ground to axel center ... tire clearance ... rake from front to back ...
BUT spring height clearance in my thinking is dependent on what springs or blocks you use . center of axel to lip won't change by tire / rim size .
?? what do you say am I missing something ??
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OK......I think I got this one.
You are correct...........
Center of axle to fender lip WON'T change with taller tire rim combo UNTIL.......you need to jack the body up to clear bigger tire combo. OR lowering the body to improve cosmetics of small short tire combo inside fender well. Most hotrod guys (I guess) like the wheel wells full-of-tire/wheel combo. Bigger / taller wheel combo increase axle to road height but IF-IF you lower the body to maintain you 'original'-axle-to-fender lip clearance...then ride height stays the same.
That's when the tubbing and axle narrowing comes into play. When the tire/wheel combo goes to the EXtreme..the body is lowered (to maintain the 'original' axle-to-fender clearance).
6s6
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That is why the measurement is taken from axle centerline to fender lip. It totally removes the tire and wheel diameter from the equation.
My measurement is 12-3/4” with reverse eye 4-1/2 leaf springs and 1/2” blocks.
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Say Steve didn't you add a block to your leaf spring to axel bracket ?
and on your 66 don't you have 4.5 med eye leaf springs
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Yes, as stated in post #13 of this thread.
Ride quality is great, too. Not too stiff, not too soft.
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