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1/25/2021 11:04 PM  #1


65 4 wheel disc brake tuning

I installed a 1990 brake booster and a 1 inch mc in my 65, I also modified the manual brake pedal by lowering the brake pedal pin and reinforced the firewall. The brakes are very good but I would like to fine tune the brake pedal feel, the pedal has a lot of travel for my taste but it does stop the car really well. My current brake pedal ratio is 4:1, I was wondering if I increased the pedal ratio to 5:1 would it take out some of the pedal travel. I saw where the1967-1969 Mustang power brake pedal has a larger ratio as well
thanks

Last edited by Triton (1/25/2021 11:05 PM)


1965 Notchback, 8.8 rear end, T-5, Diy Front Struts, Shelby Drop, Bumpsteer Kit
 

1/26/2021 9:06 AM  #2


Re: 65 4 wheel disc brake tuning

5:1 will make for MORE pedal travel. 67-69 PB pedal is 3:1 ratio.

If you have excessive travel, the first two things to check:
1. Rear brakes not adjusted properly. They need to be as tight as possible while not inducing drag.
2. Booster output shaft adjusted too short.

If you still have excessive travel after those two items are verified correct, you may have a bad internal valve in the booster


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

1/26/2021 10:09 AM  #3


Re: 65 4 wheel disc brake tuning

The rear brakes are disc from on an 8.8 and they work well from my testing to adjust the proportioner. I checked the booster rod before installing the master cylinder so it's good. My pedal travel isn't too excessive but I would like to have less, it would give me a little more confidence in the brakes because I have to get used to them compared to my other vehicles. The brakes stop the car well just wanting fine tune them


1965 Notchback, 8.8 rear end, T-5, Diy Front Struts, Shelby Drop, Bumpsteer Kit
     Thread Starter
 

1/26/2021 12:42 PM  #4


Re: 65 4 wheel disc brake tuning

With four wheel discs, about 2” travel is expected until the pedal is hard.
Be sure all air is bled out.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

1/26/2021 4:15 PM  #5


Re: 65 4 wheel disc brake tuning

Good point, I have stainless steel lines on the car and sometime have a hard time getting them to seat. I'll bleed them again!


1965 Notchback, 8.8 rear end, T-5, Diy Front Struts, Shelby Drop, Bumpsteer Kit
     Thread Starter
 

1/28/2021 9:22 AM  #6


Re: 65 4 wheel disc brake tuning

I have 4-wheel discs, am using the stock 'manual' brake pedal.  I recently went from manual brake setup to a hydoboost power brakes system using the same pedal assembly, and, as MS noted, I do have some pedal movement before braking starts, that is to be expected.
Regarding SS brake fittings seating, I've found that putting a small amount of lubricant on the tool seating surface while making the double-flair, or bubble-flare, helped to make a better seat on the tubing.


65 Fastback, 351W, 5-speed, 4 wheel discs, 9" rear,  R&C Front End.
 

1/28/2021 7:45 PM  #7


Re: 65 4 wheel disc brake tuning

Follow up on the tube flares:
Especially on stainless, do not tighten the second half of the flare process real tight where it flattens the sides of the flare.  Leave some compression room so the tube nut can seat the flare into the female fitting, doing the final part of the flare as it gets tightened into the fitting.  If you crank the flare tool down real tight, it work hardens the flare and it will never seal.  Same goes with other types of tubing.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

1/29/2021 10:10 AM  #8


Re: 65 4 wheel disc brake tuning

MS wrote:

Follow up on the tube flares:
Especially on stainless, do not tighten the second half of the flare process real tight where it flattens the sides of the flare. Leave some compression room so the tube nut can seat the flare into the female fitting, doing the final part of the flare as it gets tightened into the fitting. If you crank the flare tool down real tight, it work hardens the flare and it will never seal. Same goes with other types of tubing.

Interesting.  I found I really had to crank down on the flair tool to get a proper seal with SS tubing.  With copper-nickel tubing I found that I needed not to tighten too much to get a proper seal as you stated. 
 


65 Fastback, 351W, 5-speed, 4 wheel discs, 9" rear,  R&C Front End.
 

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