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8/13/2013 5:17 PM  #1


Brake Pedal Change Out Question

1970 Mach 1 Mustang 351 Automatic

I am swapping out my manual break pedal to a breake pedal for a power brakes.
Got the old one out pretty easy and have located the mounting hole for the new pedal. Problem is I cant seem to get the new pne which is much longer into its position. Looks like I may have to move my steering column to do so. Has anybody run into this before?

Thanks

kenzo

 

8/13/2013 6:01 PM  #2


Re: Brake Pedal Change Out Question

All set had to remaove a bracket that was bolted on as it was preventing it from slidine all they way up
It is tight working under there especially if you are a bigger person, I have the dash out which is making this a little easier.

     Thread Starter
 

8/13/2013 7:08 PM  #3


Re: Brake Pedal Change Out Question

Kenzo wrote:

1970 Mach 1 Mustang 351 Automatic

I am swapping out my manual break pedal to a breake pedal for a power brakes.
Got the old one out pretty easy and have located the mounting hole for the new pedal. Problem is I cant seem to get the new pne which is much longer into its position. Looks like I may have to move my steering column to do so. Has anybody run into this before?

Thanks

kenzo

 Kenzo,  Brake switches are different for manual and power......jj


"Never put a question mark where God put a period "  Richard Petty
 

8/14/2013 12:26 PM  #4


Re: Brake Pedal Change Out Question

Thanks didn't realize...just ordered a new one.Almost ready for a test ...less brake lights..

Thanks for the heads up!!

     Thread Starter
 

8/14/2013 5:12 PM  #5


Re: Brake Pedal Change Out Question

Test drive ...Brakes work nice, so long story short I installed the wrong break pedal and power booster in my 70. I changed out the pedal for a power brake pedal and installed a 1/2" spacer in between my power booster and firewall and I am back in business. They are still a little weird at low rpms as the car has pretty low  vacuum at idle like 16-17 and I am assuming that is why. 
I have a vacuum canister that may solve that problem but its not that bad so I may live with it.

Car has a pretty agressive cam in it so it was interesting driving it with the auto. I kept pushing it into neutral when I was at stop to settle out the idle while at stop.

Back on the road.

KC

     Thread Starter
 

8/14/2013 5:32 PM  #6


Re: Brake Pedal Change Out Question

Kenzo wrote:

Test drive ...Brakes work nice, so long story short I installed the wrong break pedal and power booster in my 70. I changed out the pedal for a power brake pedal and installed a 1/2" spacer in between my power booster and firewall and I am back in business. They are still a little weird at low rpms as the car has pretty low  vacuum at idle like 16-17 and I am assuming that is why. 
I have a vacuum canister that may solve that problem but its not that bad so I may live with it.

Car has a pretty agressive cam in it so it was interesting driving it with the auto. I kept pushing it into neutral when I was at stop to settle out the idle while at stop.

Back on the road.

KC

 That should be
plenty of vacuum...Get a rebuilt original Bendix booster from Cardone $130-no core charge,look on line/E-Bay ....jj


"Never put a question mark where God put a period "  Richard Petty
 

8/14/2013 6:46 PM  #7


Re: Brake Pedal Change Out Question

Does your booster have an check valve?  If not, an in-line check valve should keep sufficient vacuum for low rpm/idle stops.  But I agree with jerseyjoe that it may simply be the booster.  I ran a system with only 9" at idle and it worked fine unless I repeatedly pumped the brakes at idle.

 

Board footera


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