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My 298 performer has the sending unit hole right above the left cylinder head. I installed my good gauge there and my stock one at the T stat. Wouldn't it be better to have my Autometer sending unit at the T stat as it seems to be more equal on the output?
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You want the sender to be right before the water exits through the thermostat. That way you get flow from both sides of the block at the point where water is momentarily reduced in flow. It will have soaked up as much heat as it is going to at that point.
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I just figured that out today and could be why I always think I am running hot. Thanks bunches. Just did my 500 mile oil change that was due and was actually 3 oil changes due to all that happened. All break in oil though. Damn this 289 is strong.
Chris
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Water temp is like a lot of other readings we get from gauges; you're reading the temp at a particular spot. There will be spots in the cooling system that are considerably hotter due to flow variations in a convoluted water jacket. The idea becomes reading an average, which is what you get just before the t-stat.
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Just took a nice drive to the coast. 70 degs out and avg speed of 60 some hills and some freeway, this is all after my first 500 mile break in. I moved the sender to in front of the T stat to see what kind of differences I get.
holds at 185-190 ish but sometimes will go up to 200-205 problily when the stat open full. Some times it will go up on a long hill and other times it doesn't. I dont know this just seems odd to me that I cant have steady temp readings. I know these arent hot temps but what will happen when I turn on the air when its 90 outside.
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People often get WAY too concerned about water temperature. The boiling point of water is 212 at sea level at atmospheric pressure. Our cooling systems don't run straight water and also don't run at atmospheric pressure. A proper 50/50 mix of water and a glycol based coolant under a standard system pressure of 13psi doesn't boil until it reaches over 240 degrees.
Ideally you want to run the engine as hot as you can without risking the temperature getting away from you. The hotter the engine runs the less wear that occurs and the more efficiently it burns the fuel. Many modern cars don't even turn of the fans until the temperature reached 220 degrees.
If you have a decent electric fan that's properly controlled you should have no issue keeping it cool. My question would be how are you controlling the fan?
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I have a Autocoolguy controller and have it set by reading the outlet for 20 degs less than the stat rating of 180. I think I have over thought this some. For now I will return the sender to in the intake just above the head as I know now what is coming out of the block heading into the radiator. After all this is a new tight motor.
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Chris....you have a larger cap. radiator than stock...correct?! Alum. OR brass is just fine.
Elec. controlled fan set at a good/safe temp...correct?
It hasn't puked once since you got back on the road.....correct?
Using distilled water with 'some' anti-freeze mixed in......
Using a 13-15 lb. radiator cap?.....
It will blow steam from under the hood before it destroys itself.....Soooooooo!...
You good!!!
Drive the snot(t).....never can remember which?! ... out of it and enjoy a souped-up-Mustang!!
We prolly need a video......with sound!...to offer anymore sound advice!!!
6sally6
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Lol I am working on that
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