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After removing the floor pan on drivers side I removed the pancake rust and un fortunately the top of where the front leaf spring mount is pretty pitted. More correctly is more to the side of the leaf spring mount not directly above it. The mount itself looks solid torque box outer plates are in perfect shape. I hate to remove the torque box for this. I wish someone made a patch for this portion I dont want to eliminate the leaf mount either. Im thinking of getting some plate removing the leaf spring mount and making a patch. Any suggestions of patch material thickness??
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I noticed that the transition pan that I bought doesn't really line up with the Oem shock pan atleast with any of the plug weld holes that were drilled to remove the new mount. I have the pan sitting now seems about right I still have one of my stock inner wheel housings installed. To go by for reference.
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Im thinking im going to use some 3/16" 2-3/4"x like 3- 3/4" remove my rear axle housing remove the leaf springs then proceed to removing the front leaf mount. Then patch the bat material that the leaf mount mounts to. Any suggestions?
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Measure & Measure oh and Measure again.
Cman
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Thank you Cman do you think 3/16" strap sounds sufficient thats what its looks like about right now. I'm planning on buying the open tracker watts link, and then use that package as a base. That or maybe build my self a nice Bell crank for my setup. Also like the looks of the MTF watts link with the bell crank on the top of the axle housing. One of the things thats holding me back from building my rear axle set up is I havent found good information on determining how long the bell crank needs to be.
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The rear axle housing is my next project since in the area and it should be serviced anyways. I plan on washing it in some Evaporust then hopefully Ill find some factory markings I can tell the housing hasn't ever been touched. Also thinking I'm going to red oxide the 3rd member. I've already gone thru the brakes updated the fronts to MS Kit the Drums were rebuilt other than that the housing hasn't been touched. I would like to pull the whole thing apart and check it and make sure I dont have any issues. Plus new bearing all through out?i would is there any reason not to put all new bearings in the 3rd member? Sorry im still learning more mechanical things. I have disassembled a couple 9" one 8.8 and a henry J rear also made a coworker get a back ache when I lifted up the 3rd member out of the 1969 mach 1 some fancier rear diff then other mach 1 staggered shocks shaker hood. Cool car. White with red vinyl stripe. What should I wash the inside of the housing out with after sanding down and prepping the out side? I used lacquer thinner before. But I also used a solvent tank. I just dont want to get particles in there and wreck it. Any suggestions?
Last edited by True74yamaha (6/10/2021 1:59 AM)
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I'm an ABDFI (ain't-broke-don't-fix-it) kinda guy.
Is there something worng with the inside of the 3rd member or.............
6sal6
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T74Y,
Are you replacing the Front bracket that is between the torque box and the front spring mount.
On my car look to be about 1/8" material
Cman.
Last edited by cman66 (6/10/2021 6:22 PM)
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cman66 wrote:
T74Y,
Are you replacing the Front bracket that is between the torque box and the front spring mount.
On my car look to be about 1/8" material
Cman.
Thank you. yes I need to replace the material above the forward leaf mount on the torque box other than that my torque boxes are really clean.
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6sally6 wrote:
I'm an ABDFI (ain't-broke-don't-fix-it) kinda guy.
Is there something worng with the inside of the 3rd member or.............
6sal6
Nothing wrong just my OCD of seeing that faded ole housing and third member sitting my leaf springs to me I would just have some piece of mind knowing it completely clean,properly serviced, repaired if needed, and also I want it to look its best . Also so people who get under my car like if I have someone weld my exhaust in I want them to look up under my ride and say damn thats clean. Im also debating converting the rear to disc brakes as well to match the front 2013GT. But I plan on painting my housing black then on the third member spraying in SPI red oxide epoxy. Plus replicate all the old marking on the housing.
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My next undertaking will be redoing the driver side that my friends DAd did a crappy patch job on he welded the new over some old and lap welded not my idea of a good repair so I'm going to redo it now that I own a welder and I'm going to do a but weld. Then I need to patch the passenger side toe board and up into just barely under where the bulge for the heater box. Its pitted. To bad my car just has pitting on the pans other than that they are really clean the worst of the rust was in the back. Do you or anyone know that have installed the passenger side firewall toe board patch. Does it patch under the bulge where the box sits at all?
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Also On the rear axle housing note I should probably start a new thread but I have two different AOD transmissions that were given to me for the Build. I was curious what rear gear would go good with the AOd is it pretty close to like a gm 700r4? I know my truck 85 chevy k10 350 700r4 has a 3.73 posi lock rear but my trans in that has a shift kit different pressure plate and cooler.
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Also debating I think one of the two transmissions that I was given is a little new so it would need a transmission shift controller gizzie
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