First one was a physical contact switch.
It was supposed to maintain contact to radiator via a speed nut…kinda like zip tie.
Over time worked loose to affect fan operation sometimes.

Second temp sensor failed, like it exploded and oozed out of housing.
It was located in thermostat housing.
I was in a drive thru window at Hardee’s and only way to get out of lane was to go all of the way through.

Both were wired into the control side of wiring.

When I installed the aluminum radiator, I simplified the wiring as I had the replace my first electric fan because it wouldn’t fit the core by 1/4”.

Other than recent mechanical problem with cooling system, haven’t had any problems with setup.

Don’t use a vacuum cap and RTV to cap off coolant port.
Since mid 90’s I have also run a 16# cap after original heater core was replaced.

Back in the day, not all fans were setup with a clutch.
So the fan was operating all of the time.
Thermostat is just a valve that opens and closes at predetermined temperature.
So I have no problems running the electric fan and allow thermostat to do its job.

This was also done before the soft start of fan motors became popular.
Even some of those can have a hum during operation which is more annoying to me.

Kinda like running a regular 120 volt fan on a modified sine wave inverter.
Does it work?
Yes, but at a compromise.

My A/C seems to work well with the electric fan.
The fan draws enough air to hold a t-shirt rag to the condenser.