| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
1 of 1
Offline
Hello everyone I managed to get some work done today on my ole Coupe. Removed the drivers side Quarter panel and rest of outet wheel house. I also have my car on jack stands now with the rear axle out. I have my trunk floor completely removed and my shock crossmember brace removed. I currently have 2 jack stands in the front of the car on the end of the frame rails near the radiator support one on each side along with a piece of wood on top. In the rear I have my jack stands under the rear torque boxes and they also have a piece or two of wood to help level the jack stands out.
Sorry wanted to give some back information on my car also the engine and transmission are still currently installed.
Offline
1965 Mustang with quarter panel removed and outer wheel house
also I did add a few cross braces to keeep some alignment side to side. I dont think those made it into the photos I uploaded. Is the way I have my car on jack stands okay for when I cut out the toe board up into the Firewall. Mine is pitted on my passenger side up to the heater indentation but in the heater area its clean. On the drivers side I need to remove the patch job full toe pan and partial floor pan. Im just curious if I have my car supported enough to cut out the toe boards any tips I dont want to cut to far and have the front frame rail come loose lol!!Last edited by True74yamaha (7/08/2021 11:57 PM)
Offline
Jack stands
forgot the jack stand photosOffline
T74Y
You should place the front pair of jack stands at the pinch weld directly under the door post.
Level the car front to rear and side to side and your good to go.
Cman
Offline
I'd also support the engine, the trans and where the subframes end under the front seats. These cars are quite flexible even when the body is intact.
Offline
Didn’t MS have a jig for this type of work? Thought I read someone borrowed it a while ago.
Offline
My jack stands dont have a pinch weld slot. I guess my next purchase could be two sets of the rubber ends that turn the stands into pinch weld stands.
Offline
I wont share my address for the time being lol I do have lots of extra wood laying around. What about this or some similar bracing underneath.
Offline
That's a job Id be nervous to tackle. I think Id rather rebuild a crashed airplane.
Offline
Its a job yes but its a job that will make my car really nice in the end. Im going to order some jack stand rubber mounts that have a slot cut out to install on cars with a pinch weld. That way I can move my front Jack stands and go to town hopefully I can get her floor done soon. I'm seeing some light in the end of this tunnel. Or maybe its a pin hole lol. Yall think these jack sand pinch weld protectors will serve me okay?
Also I came accross the widened wheel houses after purchasing stock wheel houses. Also I needed to remove my old wheel houses so I didnt really want to use the edge of the stock inner for the mini tubs. I have now have my dynacorn wheel houses they fit together really nicely for buying them separately. I have now also cut out a 2" wide strip of 18 gauge steel im thinking about building some wider inner wheel houses of some stock style replacements. Any suggestions or has anyone here installed MTFs mini tub kit? Im wondering how much of the frame rail edge he cuts off. One reason why I was also thinking about doung this is I also need to cut off the axle snubber or whatever its called on the side of the frame rail. Mine has some good rust on its mounting flanges. The crazy part about my floor in my car is how the rust through was really concentrated in the trunk area. And under the rear seat, other than that the rest of the floor is really clean but has pits. In a decent amount of areas and also the passenger side toe board is really pitted. The drivers side I need to remove the ole patch job and fix it. Gotta love these cars.
Last edited by True74yamaha (7/10/2021 1:01 AM)
Offline
Hopefully this isnt like their jack stands lol. I was also thinkimg after I get those pinch weld protector adapter gizzies for
my jack stands ill pick up this floor jack adapter. It will come in handy plus I think its wide enough to to sit under the front frame rails and help suppot my car. Good idea? Also ive heard of some cars spreading after cutting the floor out. I plan on cutting one side at a time to tackle the front floors.
Offline
cman66 wrote:
T74Y
You should place the front pair of jack stands at the pinch weld directly under the door post.
Level the car front to rear and side to side and your good to go.
Cman
Thanks
Offline
True74yamaha wrote:
I wont share my address for the time being lol I do have lots of extra wood laying around. What about this or some similar bracing underneath.
Looks OK to me. I'd add supports under the front and rear, both sides. Also, I'd place a support across the spring towers in the engine bay, and at other places along the body. I'd also place a support in the door opening, front to rear. With as much as unibodies flex, over doing the supports can't hurt. You don't want to finish the welding and find the doors won't close, fenders and/or hood, trunk lid, etc. do not fit correctly.
Offline
True74yamaha wrote:
Hopefully this isnt like their jack stands lol. I was also thinkimg after I get those pinch weld protector adapter gizzies for
my jack stands ill pick up this floor jack adapter. It will come in handy plus I think its wide enough to to sit under the front frame rails and help suppot my car. Good idea? Also ive heard of some cars spreading after cutting the floor out. I plan on cutting one side at a time to tackle the front floors.
I have this and sometimes use it to raise the front with one jack, as opposed to two from the sides at the torque boxes. But that is the only use I've found for it.
Offline
Maybe a guy can have toooo many jacks and such??!
(well......a woodworker can NEVER have too many clamps sooooooooo.....!!)
When you weight time& money....wonder if a full tube chassis under your Mustang is an option? With that you could just attach panels to a full chassis/suspension deal.......
6sally6
Offline
Bearing Bob wrote:
True74yamaha wrote:
Hopefully this isnt like their jack stands lol. I was also thinkimg after I get those pinch weld protector adapter gizzies for
my jack stands ill pick up this floor jack adapter. It will come in handy plus I think its wide enough to to sit under the front frame rails and help suppot my car. Good idea? Also ive heard of some cars spreading after cutting the floor out. I plan on cutting one side at a time to tackle the front floors.I have this and sometimes use it to raise the front with one jack, as opposed to two from the sides at the torque boxes. But that is the only use I've found for it.
I've seen a wooden 4x4 being used under the front frame rails for the same purpose ... just saying.
I had also made a wood block, with a "V" cut, that fit the crossmember under the engine to lift the front end with my floor jack. Interesting, I had the export brace lying close to being in place as it didn't fit the shock towers studs that were off by about 3/16". When I jacked up the car (no engine or trans, but body complete) on the crossmember, the brace fell into place.
Offline
BobE wrote:
Bearing Bob wrote:
True74yamaha wrote:
Hopefully this isnt like their jack stands lol. I was also thinkimg after I get those pinch weld protector adapter gizzies for
my jack stands ill pick up this floor jack adapter. It will come in handy plus I think its wide enough to to sit under the front frame rails and help suppot my car. Good idea? Also ive heard of some cars spreading after cutting the floor out. I plan on cutting one side at a time to tackle the front floors.I have this and sometimes use it to raise the front with one jack, as opposed to two from the sides at the torque boxes. But that is the only use I've found for it.
I've seen a wooden 4x4 being used under the front frame rails for the same purpose ... just saying.
I had also made a wood block, with a "V" cut, that fit the crossmember under the engine to lift the front end with my floor jack. Interesting, I had the export brace lying close to being in place as it didn't fit the shock towers studs that were off by about 3/16". When I jacked up the car (no engine or trans, but body complete) on the crossmember, the brace fell into place.
I have used a big 4x4 as well to lift the car when having to go to taller jack stands so that it was then easier to transfer this fastback to the Rotisserie.
Offline
6sally6 wrote:
Maybe a guy can have toooo many jacks and such??!
(well......a woodworker can NEVER have too many clamps sooooooooo.....!!)
When you weight time& money....wonder if a full tube chassis under your Mustang is an option? With that you could just attach panels to a full chassis/suspension deal.......
6sally6
Man with to many to tools Never!!!
Offline
Sorry everyone that im such a noobie on bracing my car before the floor removal. Thank you everyone on the guidance. I ordered a set of four jack stand pinch weld protectors. I will do as above mentioned place stands on each side directly under the door hinge pillar post and in the rear near the torque boxes. I also have some 4x4s and a 2×4 under my floor supports near the kick up on the front frame rails. Should I also use a ratchet strap or two to wrap around the rocker panels and through the door way. That what I could ratchet the rockers together. Also I plan on removing one side at a time. I was thinking this will all help me to keep the lower body from spreading.
Offline
My '66 has places along the pinch welds where the manual jack is placed. I think that is true for all of our cars. Look for them to get jacking points. There are recessed places about an inch long right behind the front fender and right in front of the rear fender.
Offline
lowercasesteve wrote:
My '66 has places along the pinch welds where the manual jack is placed. I think that is true for all of our cars. Look for them to get jacking points. There are recessed places about an inch long right behind the front fender and right in front of the rear fender.
Thank you for that. I didnt realize the rear of the rocker be the rear wheel had a recessed area to place a jack stand. I did know however about the front place. Thank You. lowercasesteve
Offline
One corner was messing with me. Kinda awkward with the front end having the majority of the weight. I have it now flat on each jack stand plus I have two stacks of 6x6s & a few misc pieces of wood under the floor support Im also going to use one of my jacks with a round log on it to help support the trans tunnel when I cut floor out on one side. My garage floor is apparently wanky where I decided to park my car. Lol. And I also plan on cutting the exhaust off tomorrow and or seeing if I can break the bolts loose.
Last edited by True74yamaha (7/14/2021 12:54 AM)
1 of 1
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |