BobE wrote:

HudginJ3 wrote:

Well changing the fuel pick up did nothing for it. In overdrive and fourth all is OK, shifting into third and flooring it at 65 mph it starts to go then runs out of gas. I held it floored till it got down to 40 mph, as soon as I let up off the throttle it took off. As long as I keep my foot out of it it runs fine, but not if I fly low.

Is there any portion of the existing fuel line where there is a rubber hose?  If so, it maybe it is collapsing under a heavy load? 
Does the carburetor have a filter, or screen, installed at the inlet to the carburetor … maybe it’s partially clogged?
Check the needle & seat, maybe it is too small to provide the fuel needed under high RPM?
Consider running a temporary fuel line from the tank forward to the fuel pump, this will at least tell you if the existing fuel is causing the problem.
Consider rigging up a small (like 1 gallon) fuel tank that you can place in the engine compartment so as to eliminate the entire fuel line and tank pickup.

 

OR.......jus change the mech. fuel  pump

6sal6

MS wrote:

My 427 runs fine on a 3/8" steel line from the tank.  And a Carter mechanical fuel pump.  Look at the fuel tank pickup, plus the rubber line from the pickup to the hard line.  And, your 70 has an additional rubber line plumbed in under the torque box.  I have seen old ones that could get sucked flat under load.

And fix that 65 degree advance thing.  That is way off.

I replaced the fuel pump in May with another Carter. There was no change, I added a new filter at the inlet to the fuel pump using the hoses that came with it. When I changed steel fuel line with a new one I changed all the hoses and the one in the torque box. No change. There is no way, that I know of, to connect a filter directly to the carb. The fuel line connects to a banjo fitting that mounts straight down. I had to reroute the fuel line from the pump to other side of the carb and then bend it 90° up and connect a short hose to it. (I used a tubing bender)  I "T" ed the pressure gage in at that point. 

I made an attempt to change the advance and was successful to a point. The end result is I timed it from 6° BTDC to 12° BTDC and got the high timing down 30° BTDC. It's more than I wanted but it doesn't ping any more. I also got the dwell set closer. So I started to work on the carb thing. When I get that fixed I'll go back to the distributor issue.  

I removed the rubber fuel line between the carb and the steel fuel line. With the steel fuel line in the relaxed position there is about an 1/8 of an inch between the line and the banjo fitting. The rubber hose has no structure to it at all. There looks to be places where it was getting sucked in and possibly restricting the fuel. I replaced it with a spare hose that came with a new fuel filter. The new hose looks way better the the other new hose. So now it runs better and I'm back to working on the ignition. It seems to still run out of gas but at a higher RPM and at the same RPM that it cuts out. I was trying to figure out how the engine reacts to too much dwell and to little dwell.

BobE wrote:

Did you try to loosen the banjo fitting and rotate it to get a better angle with the fuel line?

 
My carb is an Edelbrock, the banjo is on the passenger side. I had to rerouted the fuel line to reach it so I ran it over the timing chain housing under the distributor next to the heater port under the choke and up to the banjo. I had to put in a little more bend in the line and move the banjo to butt up against each other. They are close enough that I have to remove the banjo to install the fuel line hose. Works good.

6sally6 wrote:

So that STILL didn't fix it?!
6s6

I hate redoing work that I have recently done. But that hose proved that I need to take a look at the rest of the hoses again. They were all replaced before the bash. Because it is now running a little better Im going through the ignition system again because it has a definite miss. While I was looking for information on the Duraspark I came across your and Gaba's conversation in 2019. It's a pretty good read. Before the bash I had set the gap of the rotor and stator to .007 according to another article that I read. I checked the dwell at 36 and readjusted it wider and it is still at 36. I do not understand that. The vacuum advance also goes up to over 50 BTDC at 3000 rpm. The mechanical goes up to 35 BTDC and stops at 2500 rpm. 

HudginJ3 wrote:

6sally6 wrote:

So that STILL didn't fix it?!
6s6

While I was looking for information on the Duraspark I came across your and Gaba's conversation in 2019. It's a pretty good read..... The mechanical goes up to 35 BTDC and stops at 2500 rpm. 

 
Welp..........I've slept since then soooooooo... I don't remember  mine and Gaba's convo. (Looking back at Gaba's "issues" with his engine.....maybe not a good reference!)
Sounds like your total advance is (35*) is pretty good for stock-ish iron heads. Maybe a few degrees less for  aftermarket/more efficient heads.
If plugs/wires/distrib cap/ are all in good shape maybe look at the coil?!?
Do you have an MSD (or equivalent) in your system?
What about that troublesome little pink wire?!?
Battery good?!? (I told you of my experience with a weak battery causing a high RPM cut-out)
Excessive amount of ground wires?!? Seems we can never have toooo many ground wires

Try plugging your vacuum advance off and see how it performs!
(IF that solves the high RPM miss then......you can work backwards)
If all that doesn't help it HAS TO BE fuel related....right?
6sally6

HudginJ3 wrote:

The valves have come loose twice during all this process.     Adjusting them helps.

 
IS the cam a roller or flat tappet?
6s6

The cam is a roller with stock lift roller tip rockers. The heads are Edelbrock Performers. I think they use pressed in studs. The rockers are held in place with a long nut and an alan screw in the nut to lock down on the stud.
 

MS wrote:

Edelbrock heads have screw-in studs. You must not be tightening the rocker nut setscrews properly if they are coming loose.
My method:
Adjust nut to proper rocker adjustment. Back off 1/8 turn. Tighten setscrew as tight as you can get it by hand with 3/8” ratchet. Then, turn the adjusting nut and the setscrew together 1/8 turn.  They NEVER come loose using that method.

 
That's a new method of torquing valves to me. I have never done it that way. I'll give it a try.

With the cam on the base circle I adjust the rocker until there is no slack in the pushrod.  Some like to twist them side to side.  I find I can't feel when there is drag and they end up too tight if I do it that way.  I therefore go up and down until there is no slack, then go 1/4 turn past that.