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9/24/2021 6:46 PM  #51


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

Day TWELVE
Friday of Week 2

Finalized radiator and shroud installation. Used a 90 Mustang 5.0 upper hose, cut in the middle to fit the 70 20” radiator.  Used a 3” length of EMT with a bead of weld at each end as a butt connector for the hose joint.

Got the new power brake type stoplight switch and the new grounded electronic flasher switch installed.

Gas pedal spring and firewall seal, brake pedal pad, carburetor linkage all installed.

New rear valance painted and installed.  More Scott Drake crappy parts. The chrome trim for the GT tip holes has studs welded on each side and they were 1/4” away from lining up with the holes in the valance, making a five minute part of the job take 1/2 hour. Busted off the offending studs and rewelded them. I hate Scott Drake’s crappy quality.  Waiting for Jose to find some new bolts to reattach the rear bumper.
I had to do my trick on the rear valance to get the corners to fit perfectly by adding some more angle to the attaching flange at the top.  Those new valances are so damned flimsy you can bend it by hand. I took some pics of this process this time. Just no good way to post them.

Jose put oil in the engine today.

All that’s left is finishing up…
Duraspark wiring, mount the coil and module.
One wire alternator mods to wiring -not sure what to remove and leave…. HELP.  It’s a 65 with deluxe interior and factory gauges.  I know the ALT gauge will  get replaced with a VOLT gauge.
Tranny coolant lines.
Heater hoses to core.
Drive shaft.
Shorten tranny kick down cable.  Right now it does nothing.  Cable too long.
Exhaust system


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

9/25/2021 8:11 AM  #52


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

Thanks to Josh-kabob and Bullet Bob for providing the electrical diagrams I needed to complete the wiring on Jose's car.  Hoping to hear it run real soon.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
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9/25/2021 8:30 PM  #53


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

Day THIRTEEN
Saturday of Week 2

Did the wiring today

Installed the Duraspark module on the firewall. Coil on passenger shock tower. Rewired for one-wire alternator. Got rid of all unnecessary wires.
Bypassed the pink resistor wire under the dash.
Hooked up the flasher for future LED lights.

Its getting closer…. Wife getting more and more agitated every day.


Day FOURTEEN
Sunday

Rested


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9/25/2021 8:58 PM  #54


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8



How it looks after Day 13


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9/25/2021 9:55 PM  #55


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

 

9/26/2021 11:26 AM  #56


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

Looking Good


Its really me....I fixed my caps lock .
 

9/26/2021 11:54 AM  #57


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

Glad to see pics, looking good!!!


If this forum can't fix it, it isn't broke.
 

9/26/2021 5:10 PM  #58


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

Typical Mustang Steve job!!!
Very clean and detailed......
6sally6

PS........why is Sherry getting agitated?!  She's gonna drive it?!!

Last edited by 6sally6 (9/26/2021 5:11 PM)


Get busy Liv'in or get busy Die'n....Host of the 2020 Bash at the Beach/The only Bash that got cancelled  )8
 

9/27/2021 1:57 PM  #59


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

I got my part from NPD today.

Hopefully Jose gets the shaft from CJPP. 😂

 

9/27/2021 8:01 PM  #60


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

Day FIFTEEN
Monday of Week 3

What a hell of a day!!! Everything we touched went to -oh no I used a word I shouldn't have-!

I checked the coil voltage and only got 9.85 volts. Probably due to the way I bypassed the pink wire under the dash.  I had left about 1”’of pink wire at each end, splicing in a copper wire. So, I reworked that, completely removing the pink sections with new copper wire from the switch to the underhood harness.  Now it gets 11.9 volts while battery has 12.3.  close enough.

Put power steering fluid in. All went well with that.  Installed tranny coolant lines.  Had to make a new crowfoot tube nut tool to get to the lines on the side of the tranny

Then the real fun began.

Went to add coolant to the engine. Major waterfall coming from between the water pump and the timing cover. Appears one of the bolt heads holding the rear cover on the water pump is holding the water pump away from the timing cover. Never seen that one before.  Will delay the water pump removal to another day.  But it will be a long day. Coolant lines, hoses, shroud, radiator, AC and PS and ALTERNATOR brackets must be removed. Then remove water pump and figure out what is causing the problem. I do not like having to rework every single item on this build due to crappy parts.

Tomorrow is another day. Will install and weld up the exhaust system.  Water pump revisit on Wednesday, which is the dey this car was supposed to drive away under its own power.

Stay tuned…

Decided to go to the opposite end and replace the fuel sender. Installed new one.  Note new one has 3/8” tube instead of 5/16” as it should have. Not a deal breaker. The rubber seal felt like a thin rubber band and two attempts to install it resulted in distorted seal (yes, used grease to hold it in place-ain’t my first rodeo). Finally after two attempts and MASS VOLUMES OF SPILLED GASOLINE, I found an old one in my tool box and installed it. Jose had assured me all the gas had been removed from the tank.  NOT!!!
Will place gas in tank tomorrow. Did not want to leave it overnight unsupervised.  Hopefully leak is cured.

Attempted to install Scott Drake 💩 dual exhaust system.  Jury is out if this thing will ever get installed properly. Yes, I could put it in there and the exhaust would go through it, but I like things straight, level and in a workmanlike manner. We’ll see how it turns out. I already determined the 2” GT tips will require an extension to reach the tailpipes. Since we cut off the 1-7/8” diameter rear of the pipes, they are too short to reach the 2” ID tips. Will have to add a section of pipe to make it work.   Hopefully I can get everything to line up and fit correctly.  Nothing worse than seeing the mufflers from the rear of the car and one is at a different angle than the other. Details matter.

Then, the $32 brake light switch installed holds the brake lights on ALL THE TIME. More freaking rework… and not easy rework.

Basically were ten minutes away from firing the engine… then, the LAW kicked in.

So, today was a backwards moving day. Hopefully tomorrow will be better.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
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9/27/2021 8:59 PM  #61


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

MS wrote:

Day FOUR
Thursday of Week 1

Installed front suspension, ready for spindle assemblies once we get the brake line brackets bolted into the frame rails centered under the UCA.
The brand new MOOG complete upper control arm assembly bushings would barely rotate, so I disassembled them to do the MustangSteve style rebuild on them. I was surprised to find that MOOG has adopted my slotted UCA shaft conversion!  That made my day.  So, I reassembled them with grease (they were bone dry) and properly adjusted and welded the steel bushings so they would rotate freely.  We did the Shelby drop, installed new springs and everything else.
Borgeson box is bolted to the frame.  I made a spacer so the rubber boot on the steering box pitman shaft did something other that just hang loose around the shaft. Now it acts like a real seal.
I modified the pedal support and pedal for the MustangSteve power brake conversion and sealed bearing pedal shaft kit. Turns out that someone added the c-4 tranny and the car was originally a manual three speed. That explains all the stripped bolts in the bellhousing and the crappy coolant lines that did not resemble any originals. Jose said it was automatic when he bought it in 1992.
We modified the mounting holes in the shock towers where the shock mount and export brace bolts down so they would work with later model 3/8” carriage bolts instead of the wimpy 65-66 5/16” carriage bolts. Had to redrill the cowl for the new Drake export brace to fit.  It aligned nicely with both shock towers once the cowl was redrilled.  The Scott Drake concours export brace is actually a decent part, unlike most of their other stuff.

So, tomorrow, the spindles and front brake lines go on, 1” sway bar goes on, then engine and tranny go in.  The car will be sitting on all four tires with the engine and tranny bolted in place by the end of Friday.

Still waiting on brake booster to arrive to finalize the steering column installation.

Trade ya...

 

9/28/2021 12:25 AM  #62


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

About those rear cover bolts on that water pump. They probably have taller heads on them and, no, shorter ones off of the old water pump probably won’t fit.  Different threads.  I’ve experienced this twice in the last few years while using Auto Zone pumps.  I took the first one back as PO’d as you should be and with the second one I was smart enough to check it before I left the store.  I told the manager “I don’t know who you are going to sell this to, cuz it’s not going to fit any small block Ford I know of.”

Last edited by Muzz 66 (9/28/2021 12:48 AM)


'66 Fastback since July 27, 1981. Springtime Yellow, originally a 200 cu in, 4 speed. Also a '92 LX Coupe, 5.0, 5 speed.
 

9/28/2021 7:40 AM  #63


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

The pump came with the serpentine belt kit he bought.  I remember the bolts being very shallow heads as the always are, but apparently they are problematic.

This is the kind of thing you should have spoken up about to keep others from seeing the same problem!

I am going to do the exhaust and finish up the fuel sender issue today and hit the water pump on Wednesday.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
     Thread Starter
 

9/28/2021 5:17 PM  #64


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

I'm sorta happy putting in studs for the front cover and WP.
I always hated trying to keep up with which long one went in which hole.
My only draw back is...I used all-thread for the studs
Shoulda looked for some grade 8 stud material I guess.
6sally6


Get busy Liv'in or get busy Die'n....Host of the 2020 Bash at the Beach/The only Bash that got cancelled  )8
 

9/28/2021 7:21 PM  #65


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

The bolts are the ones holding the backing plate to the back of the pump, not ones that go through from the front.
The serpentine came with all socket head bolts that fit in the machined billet brackets, except for two bolts. On those, I used Ford grade 8 flanged head bolts like I use on everything. I think using proper bolts makes the car look much more professional.

NO hardware store bolts and crappy washers were used on this build.  Every bolt is a flanged head grade 8 bolt.  Most were special ordered in correct size and length to fit where they go.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
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9/28/2021 7:29 PM  #66


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

Day SIXTEEN
TUESDAY of Week 3

Installed the exhaust system today.  Had to go to a muffler pipe and get the rear half of both tailpipes remade so they would work with the Scott drake 2” GT louvered exhaust tips. (Stock was 1-7/8”)
The entire system is level an straight within 1/8” and 100% welded with no clamps used.

We installed a brand new brake light switch designed for power brakes.  Of course, it makes the brake lights stay on 100% of the time.   MORE REWORK to file the booster for clearance or special order another switch.  Gotta love aftermarket parts.

Still waiting for that driveshaft that was supposed to be delivered Monday, according to FedEx.

Tomorrow I will rework that water pump, removing everything starting at the radiator. That is one downside of installing a tight-fitting fan shroud.  It requires that you disassemble everything to get to the pump.
A/C, P/S, Alternator, all those fancy billet brackets.

It would have been finished today if not for the water pump issue.

Praying for no more problems.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
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9/29/2021 4:37 PM  #67


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

Wish I had patience. I probably would have went postal by now.


If this forum can't fix it, it isn't broke.
 

9/29/2021 5:47 PM  #68


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

Day SEVENTEEN
Wednesday of week 3

Turned out the water pump leak was caused by incorrect gasket that was supplied with the pump. The port openings were larger on the gasket and overlapped mid air.  This was all my fault for not verifying fit more closely.  At least it was working on all clean, new parts.  It did not take too long since we were already pretty well practiced at removing the radiator and shroud.  That part is fixed.
I made a custom 5/16” steel tube for the radiator overflow.  You want pics?  Just come to the mini bash and see it in person.
Bring your camera.

We put gas in the tank and, of course, the new seal leaked worse than the other new seal.  I talked to the owner at Alamo Classic Ponies in San Antonio about a seal and sender. He said they always had problems with the replacement seals but NEVER has a problem with Ford Original type seals. He said Ford still stocks them and he has some in stock.   Jose will be at his place when they open in the morning to get three of the Ford seals, a new sending unit with 5/16” tube, unlike the existing new one with 3/8” hose, a new filler hose and body seal and maybe a new gas tank.  I hope he gets the new tank, but I am concerned about quality.

The brake light switch was repaired by grinding a small amount off the activation plate. Did not take much at all.  Just a big pain getting the switch out and back in place.

The car is ready to run once we get it to stop leaking gas tomorrow.

Forgot to mention.  Monday’s driveshaft delivery has still not occurred.

Last edited by MS (9/29/2021 9:34 PM)


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
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9/30/2021 5:11 AM  #69


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

I found one for my 68 at a swap meet. It had a yellow Ford service replacement stencil on the back.
A “Z” in the first letters denote that it’s a Ford replacement part.


Good work ain't cheap, Cheap work ain't good!   Simple Man
 

10/01/2021 3:33 PM  #70


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

Day EIGHTEEN
Thursday of Week 3

The new drive shaft finally showed up, three days late, from CJPony.  Installed the Maverick C4 yoke on it and installed it in the car with no issues.

We started the car today.  This is the smoothest, quietest engine ever. The Summit 500 cfm carb started as soon as gas got to it.  I adjusted idle speed and mixture. All appears to be fine. Checked the timing with a light and got it at 10 degrees BTDC, just as I had set it up when I stabbed the distributor.  The Scott Drake Hipo 2” exhaust system is really quiet. Stock Explorer roller cam runs smooth with zero valvetrain noise.
Slight tranny leak from the shifter selector shaft seal, but the tranny was installed “as purchased”.
Borgeson steering using saginaw pump make zero noise and works well.  Not road tested yet.

Battled leaking fuel pickup again.  Install it, watch it leak, drain tank.  Cuss alot. Repeat, repeat, repeat. The owner of Alamo Classic Ponies in San Antonio swore by Ford replacement seals, so we bought four.  NONE OF THEM would fit in the groove in the tank because the diameter of the seal was 1/8” to 1/4” too large.  And, if it won’t fit in the groove, there is no way it can seal. The guy suggested using Ultra Grey RTV on it, so he lost credibility with me really fast.
Finally found a used seal in my parts that fit in the groove and was able to get it to seal.
FIVE TRIES for somebody that knows how to do it to get it to seal. 

Anybody that wants to manufacture a correct size seal has a great opportunity to make some money. The ones that come with the reproduction senders do not fit right, either.

So, the car has been started, now awaiting the hood to be installed and a new, non-melted speedo cable and some gauges for oil and temp.  Tried to get gauges to work, installed new CVU, still not right. 
Ordered autometer oil and temp gauges. Gas gauge worked, but apparently no longer does. Maybe just need to add more gas since it only has under three gallons in it.

Took Friday off to celebrate Sherry’s birthday.

Hope to drive it Saturday


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
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10/01/2021 3:38 PM  #71


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8




If you could SEE the sound of the first start of a new 5.0 in a 65 Mustang, this would be it.


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10/01/2021 3:56 PM  #72


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

Outstanding.
3 days late from CJP is on time.


Bob. 69 Mach 1, 393W, SMOD Toploader, Armstrong  steering, factory AC.
 

10/01/2021 7:16 PM  #73


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

Lessons learned, among many

Do NOT bypass the pink ignition wire by splicing into it, leaving a 1” piece of pink at each end of the new wire.  While doing that simplifies the ignition wire getting through the firewall, it results in lower voltage. In this case, it resulted in 9.8 volts in RUN. Replacing the pink wire altogether resulted in 11 volts in RUN.

WILL EITHER WAY WORK?   Yes, I have run durasparks off the pink wire alone back in my lesser experienced days, without issue, but they are supposed to have full system voltage.  To do it right, eliminate the entire pink wire from the system.  The pink wire is a resistance wire designed to reduce the 12 volts down to 9 volts for use with the original points ignition.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
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10/01/2021 7:18 PM  #74


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8




Wrong way to bypass pink wire.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
     Thread Starter
 

10/01/2021 7:32 PM  #75


Re: Mini Bash Thrash / or... How to convert 1965 6 Cylinder Mustang to V8

Well, as luck has it, a friend of jose’s has passed away, and the funeral will be Friday when we are supposed to arrive in Kansas.  So, he will not be able to attend the Junction City mini bash with us. He said he will definitely be in Alabama for the main bash and hopefully can hit another mini before then.

Meanwhile, I suppose I better get started on the v8 swap in my 69.  I just got the 5.0 block prepped at 4.030”. Now to build the 331 and get it installed.  AFTER I get the 5.0 for my boat rebuilt.  It is just the wrong brand of 5.0.


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Board footera


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