I do. Get ready to spend some cash.

Bearing Bob wrote:

I do. Get ready to spend some cash.

What Model number shifter do I need for a 1965 Mustang with factory console and A/C ?
 

BobE wrote:

I can't answer this question but I believe there is info out there on simple steps to rebuild/upgrading the OEM shifter to have it work much better.  Still may not be as good as a Hurst shifter, but probably a lot less costly.

 X2 here. Seems like there were some plastic bushing on the shift rods to that would wear out with time. 

I went through the same thing with my 65.  The only thing I liked about the original shifter is that it was original LOL.  There are so many small rods and tabs that wear, that I decided to not go down that rabbit hole.  I messed with it  A LOT (and replaced all the bushings in the upper part of the shifter), and then gave up on it.

The Hurst Competition Plus shifter comes in 2 parts.  There is the "shifter", and then there is the "installation kit" specific to your car & trans.  I had the Borg Warner T10 trans in my 65, and the Hurst installation kit for it was part number 3733668.  If you  have a Top Loader trans from a newer model stang, it would be a different kit, and I do not know the number.  Google is your friend.

Last edited by TimC (1/05/2022 11:34 AM)

Here's a good look at the T10 and its Hurst installation kit

3733668_Install.PDF (shifterdoc.com)

I think I read in another post of yours that you wanted to keep your transmission. But if not I would recommend that you go with the T5 trans. By the time you fix your shifter and the top loader you will have spent the same money. And with the T5 you'll have a free over drive. If you use the car for road trips you will like the quietness the overdrive gives over the noise of the engine. You dont have to use OD in town. Just something to think about.

Billy!
Do you have a shop manual?
If not get one, it will make your life a whole lot easier.
The shop manual has the steps you need to adjust the shift  linkage.
There should not be any perceptible slop in the rods and shift arms, if there is that has to be addressed first.

Good luck, actually it should not involve  any luck, just proper workmanship.

OK then, time to open it and read away!🤪

Rudi wrote:

OK then, time to open it and read away!🤪

Rather you tell me how to do it thru your years of experience.
 

On my original 65 shifter most of the original rods were worn where they met the shift arms.  The holes in the shift arms were elongated from the shift rods rubbing on them for 50 years, half of which without bushings, I presume.  There was no way a quick use of the alignment tool was going to take the slop out of mine. 

If you want to keep the OEM, you will need to take a good look at all the rod ends, and shift arms, and evaluate their condition.

Once I got mine to the place where I could reliably shift the thing, I learned that the trans had issues, and didn't want to shift after about 20 minutes of use.  I swapped in the T5 I had in the garage because it was better & cheaper than fixing the T10, and buying the Hurst shifter.

6sally6 wrote:

Did the wreck ruin your T-5 you had?
(Might be the EZ'est and Cheape$st way to go?!)
6sal6

it busted it and the bell housing took a lot of pictures of it and the rest of the car tonight on a lift...it did a lot more damage to the car than I thought.
 

BobE wrote:

Billy - check this video on rebuilding the OEM shifter ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-LYKS2abQM

Nice