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4.5 leaf, reverse eye from CJ Pony. Supposedly 1” lowering springs. Sits higher than with the original springs.
15-1/8” from wheel center to top of wheel opening.
Not unexpected, but I am super pissed.
I sure do miss the products MustangsPlus used to sell. You knew what to expect.
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Disappointing indeed!
It appears that regardless of what information gathering one does to ensure the right springs that it is still a hit and miss procedure.
Looks like de- arch might be your salvation since I am sure you have done all of the tricks previously mentioned on other threads to get the leafs to settle in.
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Drove the car and it settled 1/8” Rides too stiff. My 66 has 4.5 leaf reverse eye and it sits waaay lower than this and does not ride rough.
My next move is to cut the 1/2 leaf section off right in front of the axle, leaving a 5” long piece between the axle perch and the remaining four leafs. That will result n a mid eye four leaf spring with a 1/4” thick lowering block. If that doesn’t get it low enough, I will add some 1/2” lowering blocks.
I am also going to put longer front springs on it. I have a set of 600# contour coils but I think I would be better served with some progressive rate springs having smaller wire diameter.
If all that fails, I guess I will be in the market for some big mud tires.
Anybody owns a 69-70… what front coils do you have? And what ride height?
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Yeah, Mustangs Plus was the best for this stuff. I too lament their passing.
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Well that certainly sucks, sorry to hear that.
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Topflightautomotive purchased mustang plus.
Their website still lists the grab a track leaf springs. For example. 4.5 leaf mid eye are $389 a pair.
Problem is, none in stock...
Just throwing it out there that grab a track is still out there.....no doubt out there in the bay sitting on a container ship....
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Grab a trak but at a price double what they used to sell for, and none in stock.
Still waiting on fan shroud from another seller whose website said IN STOCK. Is this all just covid, or is it just that the rest parts industry has gone haywire?
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The 68 Mustang sits at 25 1/2 inches in the rear and 25 3/4 in the front. There is no sense in measuring the 70. I did the Shelby drop mod on it and after the alignment the tires are leaning in at the top. The LCA adjusters are as far out as they can go. (That will be my next question for a later date.)
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Sorry to hear about the springs.
Any idea what the old Mustangs Plus spring rates (#) were for the various styles?
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HudginJ3 wrote:
The 68 Mustang sits at 25 1/2 inches in the rear and 25 3/4 in the front. There is no sense in measuring the 70. I did the Shelby drop mod on it and after the alignment the tires are leaning in at the top. The LCA adjusters are as far out as they can go. (That will be my next question for a later date.)
The numbers you are showing don’t really relate to any car other than the one you are measuring. If your dimension was taken from the center of the wheel to the top of the fender opening, then it removes the tire size from the equation. If I have a 30” tire height, and you have a 24” tire height, the center-to-fender height will still be the same.
This suggestion is just so that anyone with same year car can compare their results with yours.
So, always measure ride height from center of wheel to top of fender opening.
Also, other than stock upper control arms in front can significantly impact ride height measurements, so it helps to know what arms are installed. And whether Shelby drop has been done.
I am curious as to what your 70 rear height is, measured in this manner, so I can compare to my 4x4 69 coupe.
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MS wrote:
...to my 4x4 69 coupe.
Okay, I can't be the only one that chuckled when you read that.
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This really has me concerned, as I have a new set of reverse eye 5-leaf springs laying under the 68 waiting to go this winter. My ride height right now is perfect with the absolutely worn out (flat) factory springs. I was hoping the reverse eye would get me close, but am worried that the ride is going to be more harsh than I like.
I am curious if any of you have tried the Maier Racing Springs? They are 5 leaf in front of the axle and 2 leaf behind the axle.
I have always had wheel hop issues without decent springs, I have Cal-Trac bars at this time, but as I said my original springs are shot.
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Bearing Bob, that stance is unachievable on my 69. My brake hose would certainly hold it back. But, believe me, my new springs are TRYING to get it there.
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MS wrote:
HudginJ3 wrote:
The 68 Mustang sits at 25 1/2 inches in the rear and 25 3/4 in the front. There is no sense in measuring the 70. I did the Shelby drop mod on it and after the alignment the tires are leaning in at the top. The LCA adjusters are as far out as they can go. (That will be my next question for a later date.)
The numbers you are showing don’t really relate to any car other than the one you are measuring. If your dimension was taken from the center of the wheel to the top of the fender opening, then it removes the tire size from the equation. If I have a 30” tire height, and you have a 24” tire height, the center-to-fender height will still be the same.
This suggestion is just so that anyone with same year car can compare their results with yours.
So, always measure ride height from center of wheel to top of fender opening.
Also, other than stock upper control arms in front can significantly impact ride height measurements, so it helps to know what arms are installed. And whether Shelby drop has been done.
I am curious as to what your 70 rear height is, measured in this manner, so I can compare to my 4x4 69 coupe.
The 70 rear is 27 1/5 the front is 23 inches. I did the Shelby drop after the Michigan Bash
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HudginJ3 wrote:
MS wrote:
HudginJ3 wrote:
The 68 Mustang sits at 25 1/2 inches in the rear and 25 3/4 in the front. There is no sense in measuring the 70. I did the Shelby drop mod on it and after the alignment the tires are leaning in at the top. The LCA adjusters are as far out as they can go. (That will be my next question for a later date.)
The numbers you are showing don’t really relate to any car other than the one you are measuring. If your dimension was taken from the center of the wheel to the top of the fender opening, then it removes the tire size from the equation. If I have a 30” tire height, and you have a 24” tire height, the center-to-fender height will still be the same.
This suggestion is just so that anyone with same year car can compare their results with yours.
So, always measure ride height from center of wheel to top of fender opening.
Also, other than stock upper control arms in front can significantly impact ride height measurements, so it helps to know what arms are installed. And whether Shelby drop has been done.
I am curious as to what your 70 rear height is, measured in this manner, so I can compare to my 4x4 69 coupe.The 70 rear is 27 1/5 the front is 23 inches. I did the Shelby drop after the Michigan Bash
He is asking you to measure from center of your centercap top fender lip...most have a number around 12 to 14 inches. takes out the tire size.
Same measure like you did just dont measure all the way to ground stop in middle of your center cap.
Last edited by BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA (1/07/2022 10:24 PM)
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Thanks Billy and MS, sorry I got that confused. I thought ride height was defined from the ground to the wheel well arch so that's how I measured it. So measuring from the center of the cap both vertically and horizontally the rear is 15 1/2 inches and the front is 12 7/8.
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Sounds like your ride height is about same as my new springs, Doug.
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Ive only driven it once cause it runs so bad, but when I went over the RR tracks it didn't bottom out and felt smooth in the rear. I just don't like the looks of it. It reminds me of the cheap hot rod mods we used to do back in high school. Put longer shackles on it and it will go faster.
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