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I had electric fans, electric thermostat, and mechanical thermostat on the Galaxie and was having problems with the car running to hot. It would get to a good but slightly hot temp then the mechanical thermostat would open but there was a slight delay (about a minute) before the fans would come on making it get even hotter especially at idle. Once the fans would come on the temp would drop but then the mechanical thermostat would close causing the electric thermostat to shut off the fans and the entire process would repeat it self. In other words the gauge would swing from the middle to the high end then work its way down and repeat when not at highway speeds.
The solution was to eliminate one thermostat. By ditching the mechanical thermostat the radiator gets hot with the engine and the electronic thermostat is more accurately coming on in retaliation to water temp. The gauge sits at about half most of the time with only slight swings up and down at idle. It runs just below half at highway speeds which I am still very happy with.
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What is a electrical and Mechanical Thermostat Daze?
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i'm making popcorn as i watch and wait for the responses to come in..............Mr Tim, MS.....you out there.....
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Steve69 wrote:
What is a electrical and Mechanical Thermostat Daze?
The mechanical thermostat is the piece that goes in the thermostat housing AKA water neck. It restricts water flow. The theory (if you ask me not others on the forum) is that by opening and closing it maintains the desired hot temp. In other words when the temp gets hot enough it opens allowing the radiator to do its job then when the temp gets lower it closes allowing the temp to be up at a desired operating temperature.
The electric thermostat uses the same concept except it is an electric switch that turns off and on in a certain temperature range. It is used to control airflow through the radiator by turning the fans off and on depending on temp.
josh-kebob wrote:
i'm making popcorn as i watch and wait for the responses to come in..............Mr Tim, MS.....you out there.....
Just make sure the radiator gets hot enough to fully pop the corn
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So what you're calling an electric thermostat sounds like a thermostatic switch that tickles the fan relays when it reaches a certain temp. Did you have it screwed into the intake manifold? The proper location for that switch is either the bottom tank of the radiator or in the lower radiator hose using a short aluminum section with a bung.
The idea is the mechanical thermostat regulates engine temp while the thermostatic switch regulates radiator temps. If the switch is in the manifold it will try to do the thermostats job just like you described.
Let me try to explain more better-
With the thermo switch in the manifold, as the mechanical thermostat opens a cool charge of coolant will flow to the block and trip the switch to stop running the fans. As the engine temp rises, the switch will again trigger the fans on but as soon as the mechanical thermostat opens the same process will repeat.
With the switch in the discharge side of the tank it will work in sync with the thermostat.
1. The thermostat opens
2. Hot coolant flows to the radiator triggering the fans on while cool coolant flows to the block closing the thermostat.
3. The fan will run till the radiator temp drops, the thermostat will remain closed till the engine temp rises.
4. Rinse/ repeat
Last edited by Jon Richard (8/26/2013 11:06 PM)
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Your setup may work in the summer but you will damage your engine when it cools down because you have no system to maintain temperature. If your electric switch is out of synch with your thermostat, you can get a switch that has different open and close temps. You have a switch in a normal setup and one thermostat and you have eliminated the thermostat.
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I agree with Jon and G , you need to let your fan control the temp of the radiator and your mechanical thermostat control the temp of your engine. For sure put your mechanical one back in if you ever plan on using the heater.
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Ahhhgg!...... I've had this argument with many ah redneck in Florida. Okay let me see if I can explain this correctly. ...The purpose of the thermostat in your engine, isn't to let (Hot water out). It's to (Keep hot water in the rad), long enough for it to cool down before being introduced back into the engine. If taking out the thermostat makes it run cooler it's because the rad isn't doing it's job (Blocked or clogged rad, Too small rad, Not enough air flow). And is only a short term fix. Yes it will run cooler for short trips. But take it on a long enough drive, and the car will eventually over heat!! ALL CARS COME FROM THE FACTORY WITH A THERMOSTAT FOR A REASON. Your cars not running cooler, It's just taking longer to heat up! .....And your losing performance because it's not running at a constant optimum temperature..
Last edited by Derek (8/27/2013 7:53 AM)
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OK...
It sounds like to me if you had a mechanical fan and a mechanical thermostat, everything would be working properly.
I know you live in Montana where it doesn't ever really get hot in relation to TX where I drive, and if it is currently working for you who can argue, but what is your system going to do in the winter? Other than constantly circulate cold water?
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what fans and controller are you running? IMO the key to excellent working electric fans is using OEM fans such as the taurus, mark VII or contour etc and pairing them with a good thermostatically adjustable controller such as the DCC or new flexalite. I think the electric fan stigma comes from people using aftermarket fans that dont move enough air and cheap controllers that arent much more than a switch.
my '91 mustang LX 5.0 with trick flow heads/cam/intake had a taurus fan with a DCC controller and it stayed at 180 degrees perfectly no matter what the temp was outside.
Last edited by midnite (8/27/2013 9:12 AM)
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Derek sez "Ahhhgg!...... I've had this argument with many ah redneck in Florida"
Just for your enlightment, Florida doesn't have rednecks, we are crackers. Now Georgia on the other hand.....
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at wrote:
Derek sez "Ahhhgg!...... I've had this argument with many ah redneck in Florida"
Just for your enlightment, Florida doesn't have rednecks, we are crackers. Now Georgia on the other hand.....
HA! well I was born and raised in Daytona, and after living in GA for 4 years I've learned there's ah differance. Florida, home of Larry the cable guy has "Rednecks". You can tell by the Earnhardt hat and bad attitude. And in Georgia, Home of "Honey Boo Boo" there very nice and polite, But very ,Well as they say here "Country" bless there heart..
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Florida, home of Larry the cable guy has "Rednecks".
Larry the Cable Guy hangs out in Northern Wisconsin during the summer. I ran into him a few years back and that's what he told me...LOL
I run a ford Taurus Fan and DCC controller. Mine runs 180 degrees on the hwy and once I hit town it goes up to 190 degrees and lowers to 185 with the fan running. Pretty much when I slow down the Fan is running until I hit the Hwy.
Steve69
Last edited by Steve69 (8/27/2013 10:22 AM)
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GPatrick wrote:
Your setup may work in the summer but you will damage your engine when it cools down
How do you figure?? how will an engine running at say 130º instead of the desired 180º damage anything?? not arguing, simply if there is potential harm to the engine I would like to know about it.
I will concede that yes when the weather cools down the heater will not work and the car is going to run on the cooler side. But in MT winter means lots of snow so I will not be driving the car when it gets cold. in other words the heater is not an issue.
Derek wrote:
The purpose of the thermostat in your engine, isn't to let (Hot water out). It's to (Keep hot water in the rad), long enough for it to cool down before being introduced back into the engine.
I have heard this argument many times but I am not buying it. There is a part to this theory that makes sense because it is true that the longer the water is in the radiator the cooler it is going to get. Problem is, during the hold time, while the water is cooling in the radiator the water in the engine is getting hotter. So the hold times are canceling each other out. Also my 27" X 18" aluminum radiator hold about 1 gallon of fluid while it took two and a half gallons to fill both the engine and radiator which means the block holds more water than the radiator. This means during hold time more fluid is getting hot than getting cold which is going to build heat not reduce it.
To me the proof is in the pudding: Car runs hot, especially at idle (enough to cause fuel issues) I swap out the 180º thermostat for a 160º thermostat and the situation improves even on long drives. If your "hold in the radiator" theory was correct the 160º would not have made the situation better but worse because the 160º is open more allowing less hold time in the radiator. Even in this configuration there was still a bit of an issue at idle especially with the fan delay.
Then I remove the thermostat all together and as predicted the car runes even cooler (even when driven a lot) my radiator is highly efficient and you can feel a big difference in temp between the inflow and out flow sides.
Derek wrote:
If taking out the thermostat makes it run cooler it's because the rad isn't doing it's job (Blocked or clogged rad, Too small rad, Not enough air flow).
That doesn't even make sense. Your whole concept is the water needs to be in the radiator as long as possible so it can be cooled as much as possible. If that was true AND my cooling system was not where it should be removing the thermostat would make the issue worse not better. under your theory I would have a sub par cooling system and the fluid would not be in the system long enough to get cool enough so the car should steadily get hotter, not run at a constant temp.
My radiator works really well. After pulling the thermostat I let it sit at idle and watched the gauge. It climbed to just past half and then the fans came on. They were on for a few minutes, the needle dropped to just below half, the fans shut off and the cycle repeated it self. I upped the RPMS from idle speed to about 2500 and the same cycle happened over and over. It took it a little less time to get hot enough to turn the fans on and a little longer before they turned off (compared to idle) BUT it was consistent within the RPM range. In other words the cycle at idle did not change length of time for the fans to turn off and on cycle to cycle and the same was true at the higher RPM cycles. They stayed the same relative to each other. This tells me the cooling components are more than sufficient to cool the system.
Derek wrote:
ALL CARS COME FROM THE FACTORY WITH A THERMOSTAT FOR A REASON. Your cars not running cooler, It's just taking longer to heat up! .....And your losing performance because it's not running at a constant optimum temperature..
You are correct all cars come from the factory with a thermostat for a reason, but it is not to hold fluid in the radiator so it gets extra cooling time. Thermostats are put there by the factory for one reasons to maintain desired hot opporating tempriture. The reason for a desired opporating temp is to maximize fuel economy, keep people warm when its cold outside, and if possible maximize performance in that order of importance.
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MustangSteve wrote:
OK...
It sounds like to me if you had a mechanical fan and a mechanical thermostat, everything would be working properly.
agreed
MustangSteve wrote:
I know you live in Montana where it doesn't ever really get hot in relation to TX where I drive, and if it is currently working for you who can argue, but what is your system going to do in the winter? Other than constantly circulate cold water?
You are correct no thermostat would be an issue if I were to drive the car when it gets cold outside. But in winter it won't being doing anything so it won't be an issue. I could be seeing snow here in a couple of months at which point I will park the car in favor of my 4 X 4 truck.
It can get quite hot here in the summer. High 90s in July and August. Not TX hot but hot enough that people run cooler thermostats to deal with the summer months. In winter this can be a big problem for heaters so it is not uncommon to see a pice of cardboard with a hole in it between the radiator and the grill on many older vehicles especially when it gets below 0
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One is a thermostat....the other is a temperature controled switch / sending unit... its that simple...you need both and they must work in sink with each other...jj
Last edited by jerseyjoe (8/27/2013 10:57 AM)
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Wow! ah lot to answer .Let me try this again If the hot coolant in the rad isn't getting cooled off enough before the thermostat opens. Then over heating will occur. Removing the thermostat is a duct tape fix and does work fine on your daily beater enough to get you to work on time. However for proper performace and complete combustion an engine needs to run at optimum temp. And as I said before, if you drive it far enough IT WILL OVER HEAT. Your problem seems to be localized to the rad. There is some reason it's not cooling wheather it be fans not flowing enough air,clogged rad , too low pressure a cap, too small a rad. Removing the thermostat is a band aid on a broken leg...
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Derek wrote:
Removing the thermostat is a band aid...
This statement minus the "broken leg" exaggeration I will agree with. After looking in to it further I learned that a big part of maintaing operating temp is to maximize oil flow and lubrication so I do need to put the thermostat back and balance my fan control and thermostat so the engine can run at an optimum temp.
But there is no way IMHO that removing the thermostat from a system with a properly functioning radiator will cause the engine to over heat. Right now at idle the fan control is acting as a thermostat and the car is maintaing temp. Highway speeds are going to lower the temp. This idea that water needs to sit in the radiator, uncirculated, for periods of time to adequately cool the engine is simply not true. A thermostat is there to maintain heat not aid in cooling.
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Welll....that expalins why my 66 temp guage goes from cold to med and back to cold a bunch.
I hold with the theroy that 160* is where pre-ignition from a HOT(too hot) engine temp makes-em spark knock and rattle because the 9.5+ cr is kinda borderline for my situation.
My electric fan(sensor-controlled) comes on when the temp gets above 160* butt.....my engine therm(who knows what temp it is!?!??!) is opening and closing at its pre-determined setting.
All I know is... engine runs 160* OR LESS on trips AND highway.
I have been inside the engine more than I want to think and there was NO unusual wear noticeable. (granted....I don't put a bunch of miles on the engine butt....)
I may change the therm to match the sensor just so I won't scratch a hole in my head trying to finger out "what's goin on with my stupid guage?"
Proud for you Daze you got'r cooled off.
("temps get in the 80's and 90's in Montana") GEEZZZZZ!!! At least it cools off to the 50's and 60's at night when the cruis'in is goin on. (:
6sal6
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So Daze I'm still wondering where you had the temp switch installed? this makes all the difference.
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This is ah good thread! I don't know how many different ways I can say it, but basically the rad is a heat exchanger "Right?" . If the water passes through it too fast it can't cool down and will eventually heat soak and overwhelm the whole system. (Allow me to illistrate it if I can). If you were running a 180 thermostat, and it was getting hotter then 180, above 180 the thermostat was wide open and not closeing ,Thus as if you had no thermostat "Right?" and it still wasn't cooling down. As I said before the system was getting overwhelmed ,Just faster with the thermostat..
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Daze wrote:
Derek wrote:
Removing the thermostat is a band aid...
This statement minus the "broken leg" exaggeration I will agree with. After looking in to it further I learned that a big part of maintaing operating temp is to maximize oil flow and lubrication so I do need to put the thermostat back and balance my fan control and thermostat so the engine can run at an optimum temp.
But there is no way IMHO that removing the thermostat from a system with a properly functioning radiator will cause the engine to over heat. Right now at idle the fan control is acting as a thermostat and the car is maintaing temp. Highway speeds are going to lower the temp. This idea that water needs to sit in the radiator, uncirculated, for periods of time to adequately cool the engine is simply not true. A thermostat is there to maintain heat not aid in cooling.
Hey Daze, doesn't the thermostat also help with the pressure inside the system with the radiator cap? if the thermostat is missing, won't it take longer to build up pressure? Why does the coolant system need to be under pressure?
l look at it this way... your body works best at 98.6 degrees temperature. just a few degrees in either direction you are either overheating or overcooling and your sick. can you still function with a temperature above or below 98.6...probably, but you are at your best when its a steady proper temperature.
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Daze wrote:
But there is no way IMHO that removing the thermostat from a system with a properly functioning radiator will cause the engine to over heat.
But in order for the radiator to function properly you need airflow. The fan should be controlled by radiator temps, otherwise your cooling system is wholly reliant upon vehicle speeds and ambient temperatures.
Daze wrote:
Right now at idle the fan control is acting as a thermostat and the car is maintaing temp. Highway speeds are going to lower the temp.
A mechanical thermostat is a restrictor, as it stands you have constant coolant flow. Your thermostatic switch is simply turning on the fans when the engine gets to whatever temp your switch is triggered at. At highway speed you may not likely overheat, but the temp you’re maintaining is erratically swinging from 130f to 180f.
Daze wrote:
This idea that water needs to sit in the radiator, uncirculated, for periods of time to adequately cool the engine is simply not true. A thermostat is there to maintain heat not aid in cooling.
A thermostat is there to maintain a relatively steady engine temp, it’s not limited to maintaining heat. A properly designed cooling system will expect that the charge of coolant flowing from the radiator when the thermostat opens will be cooler than the charge from the engine to the radiator. In order to ensure this will happen under different demands, loads, and ambient temps, there must be airflow through the radiator independent of vehicle speeds. It’s not a matter of coolant sitting in the radiator un-circulated for adequate cooling, but rather a function of radiator temps being maintained independent of the engine temp to properly exchange heat as needed.
Scroll about half way down the linked page to see the inline temp sensor gizmo. That DCC controller is pretty fancy and I sure would like one myself, but anything you can do to use radiator temps to control when the fans come on will work much better for you.
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MarkinSC wrote:
Hey Daze, doesn't the thermostat also help with the pressure inside the system with the radiator cap? if the thermostat is missing, won't it take longer to build up pressure?
I don't see how. pressure is a result of heat. As the heat rises in the engine the pressure will increase in both the engine and radiator regardless of radiator temp. If the bottom radiator hose had a valve too then pressure could be different but not with an unrestricted path between the two. Think of it this way: Lets say you had an air compressor with tank and an auxiliary tank. If you had two pipes with shut off valves connecting the auxiliary tank to the compressor and you closed one valve the other connection would still allow the two tanks to have the same pressure. Same is true with the cooling system. The bottom hose is going to equalize the pressure in the system.
MarkinSC wrote:
l look at it this way... your body works best at 98.6 degrees temperature. just a few degrees in either direction you are either overheating or overcooling and your sick. can you still function with a temperature above or below 98.6...probably, but you are at your best when its a steady proper temperature.
I totally agree, I have seen the error of my ways and reinstalled the 180º thermostat my argument is no longer to have a thermostat or not have one. I am arguing the concept that coolant needs to be restricted in the radiator to help cooling.
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Derek wrote:
This is ah good thread! I don't know how many different ways I can say it
This is a good thread and I understand all the ways you are saying it, I'm just not agreeing with it
Derek wrote:
basically the rad is a heat exchanger "Right?"
agreed that is exactly what it is
Derek wrote:
If the water passes through it too fast it can't cool down and will eventually heat soak and overwhelm the whole system.
I don't agree. A radiator is going to cool at a constant rate regardless of how fast the water is moving through it. in other words it will remove energy from the system at a constant rate. If fluid is flowing through the radiator a 1 gallon a minute the heat exchange will be the same as it would be if the fluid was going through the radiator at 100 gallons per minute. Because there is constantly fluid on the system the radiator will function as a heat exchanger. I know you have said it quite a few different ways but you never account for the heat that is building up in the coolant in the block while the thermostat is closed.
Lets look at it in numbers: Lets assume for a minute that the radiator can cool (remove energy) the engine just as fast as the engine produces heat (lets pick the amount 1º per second and lets say (to make the math simple) that the engine and radiator hold the same amount of coolant) If the water temp is 170 in both the radiator and block and the thermostat closes for 10 seconds before opening again the engine will rise to 180 and the radiator will cool to 160. When the thermostat opens and the fluid begins to cycle the temp is going to balance out at 170 because the input and out put of energy is the same.
now lets remove the thermostat. The radiator is still going to remove heat at 1º per second and the engine is still going to produce heat at 1º per second keeping the system in balance.
obviously a 1-1 ratio between heat and cooling is a bad idea because of summer heat and different engine loads, so lets say the engine heats at 1º per second and the radiator cools at 1.5º per second.
Again if the water temp is 170 in both the radiator and block and the thermostat closes for 10 seconds before opening again the engine will rise to 180 and the radiator will cool to 155. When the thermostat opens and the fluid begins to cycle the temp is going to balance out at 167.5 because the input and out put of energies are different.
Remove the thermostat and the radiator is still going to remove heat at 1.5º per second and the engine is still going to produce heat at 1º per second. So the radiator will still cool the fluid faster than the engine will heat it
Now based on my second illustration an engine should always run cold and even the thermostat should not allow the engine to get to operation temp, BUT if you remember we assumed the block and radiator have the same fluid capacity, but they don't. The block holds more fluid so when the fluids mix the temp will always be closer to where the engine was regardless of how fast heat was stripped from the radiator. also an engine is going to continue to put heat in to the system at an average rate, but as the fluid in the radiator gets closer to the ambient temp the radiators cooling rate will become less effective. This is why restricting the flow to build heat and then increasing the flow just enough to bring down temps before restricting it again is how a thermostat maintains the correct operating temp.
Derek wrote:
(Allow me to illustrate it if I can). If you were running a 180 thermostat, and it was getting hotter then 180, above 180 the thermostat was wide open and not closing ,Thus as if you had no thermostat "Right?" and it still wasn't cooling down.
The issue was never that the system was not cooling properly. The issue was the lag in cooling at idle. Drive at highway speeds (fans are off) needle sits just above 1/2 when the thermostat is open and just below 3/4 when the thermostat is closed and about ready to open. Drive into town with the thermostat just opening and stop at a stop light. Temp climes above 3/4 because the thermostat just opened and there is a delay between when the thermostat opens and the fan switch kicks on and because the car is stoped no air is flowing across the radiator. Once the fans come on the system drops back down to just above half, and the cycle repeats.
When I installed 160º thermostat it locked open because it was a fail safe type and the delay in the fans caused slight over heating during town driving. Even locked open the 160º thermostat restricted flow a little bit so that when I removed it the car ran even cooler.
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