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My 66 has a 427 stroker with a TKO600 tranny having 26 spline input shaft. I have destroyed three clutches of notable brand name and high quality in about 15,000 miles.
Thinking of going with a dual disc setup this time.
Does anyone have advice from research or REAL experience on any of them? I will not buy McLeod because the current $400 McLeod clutch gave up after 300 miles.
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Centerforce in my vette for over 8 years , 0 issues. Only 425 HP and autocrossed in the summer.
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A centerforce was one of the ones I burned up but it worked fine until it started slipping. My inquiry here is about dual DISC clutches, not dual friction single disc clutches.
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No experience with dual discs, but the McLeod in the car now has about 9000 miles on it and holding up well so far. Do you think you got a bad one or a wrong disc for HP & torque you are making?
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I would call ProMotion Peformance Products. 954-771-5575
My last 3 clutches have come from them and they are all better than Centerforce or McLeod. There's something about the cable style operation to where I was never happy with Centerforce in particular. I used them for decades on mechanical linkage clutches and they worked awesome, but they seem to be junk on the cable cars.
ProMotion builds their own clutches to your specs. The one for my '89GT was less than $400 shipped. They have a website, but they're kind of old school, so I learned to just call them and order over the phone.
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TKO, how many miles do you have on that clutch in your fox ?
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0 right now, but I've got over 20k on the one in my IROC and my buddy has at least that if not more on the one in his Cobra.
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20 years ago I called South Bend Clutch and bought a clutch for my race car (95 Mustang GT). It still works as well as the second one I got for Motor number two. I have bought several others from them for other projects and all are still working fine. I call their main number and ask for help selecting a clutch. They have never missed.
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Well Steve, if I can break it, I will.
I been using the same setup as yours now for many years. What I did fine is you can't use the (by the Ford book instructions) because it's not the (by the book clutch). It needs more room because of the weights. Some for the finger start to lean against the TO bearing when you are being naughty.
I still use the Z bar.
Besides you can't crank your 427 like an ole skool Cleveland.
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Any inputs on merits of dual disc vs single disc clutches?
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2nd on Southbend.
Had one in my old Cummins powered pickup. Might try giving them a call. What they sold me was very street friendly and held up to 800 foot pounds of torque without issue.
Can’t comment on mustang applications, I have a Sonnax torque converter…
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MS wrote:
Any inputs on merits of dual disc vs single disc clutches?
The break point for that has more to do with how much power you are making. The dual disc allows for less pressure plate load due to the increased surface area, which should translate into a lighter pedal. Racers also use them because they can be smaller in diameter, thus keeping the rotating mass closer to the crank centerline and improving engine acceleration.
The single disc in my buddy's '95 Cobra seems to do just fine and its behind an easy 550HP via a Kenne Bell blown small block. Its still a cable clutch and I don't find it to be overly heavy.
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MS wrote:
My 66 has a 427 stroker with a TKO600 tranny having 26 spline input shaft. I have destroyed three clutches of notable brand name and high quality in about 15,000 miles.
MS - just curious, any ideas of why these clutches are not lasting more than 15,000 miles?
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BobE wrote:
MS wrote:
My 66 has a 427 stroker with a TKO600 tranny having 26 spline input shaft. I have destroyed three clutches of notable brand name and high quality in about 15,000 miles.
MS - just curious, any ideas of why these clutches are not lasting more than 15,000 miles?
I’ll give ya hint Bob.
Seriously though, a custom clutch for the power and your driving style might be needed.
Perhaps a company that does race as well as diesel truck clutches.
I had a Centerforce dual friction in my Z71 (stock 350) and it had over 90k miles.
Hydraulic clutch setup from factory.
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Dan - I’m guessing the picture represents a “heavy” foot!
I realize driving style, as well as shorter rides (requiring more clutch use) or highway driving, has a lot to do with clutch wear and was just wondering what MS attributes his lack of long life of his clutches.
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The centerforce wore out and started slipping. The Ford Racing King Cobra slipped before that one. Just not strong enough for the hp available. The McLeod never worked right from Day 1. It chatters terribly. Yes, I know all the factors that can cause a chattering clutch. In this case it just happens to be a crappy clutch.
My flywheel will have to be machined for the third time. So, thinking a dual disc clutch that comes with a new flywheel might be the way to go.
Last edited by MS (5/08/2022 9:50 AM)
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One of the truck sites I visited said that the dual disc setups were pretty hard to drive smoothly...like around town. Apparently they hook up very quickly with little slip-in when pulling away.
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At the rate you go through clutches a 4R70W might been a less expensive way to go.😁
A manual valve body will still let you shift if you so desire!
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I had misquoted the miles on my engine. After driving it today, I realized it has 26,000 miles on the engine. More than 20,000 of that was with a Centerforce dual friction clutch.
The mcLeod has just bern junk for the last part of that.
The Centerforce was always very smooth. It just started to slip, so I took it out.
Last edited by MS (5/08/2022 11:38 AM)
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The dual clutch setups are way overpriced IMO, and I know a proper single disc will work for your setup. 20k miles just seems like the clutch wasn't up to the task. Even in a performance vehicle you should be able to get 60-100k from a clutch. Keep in mind that the clutch is also going to be the fuse, so avoid those instant grab clutches that are either in or out with basically no slip. I return to, call ProMotion, or call Bob Hanlon (I think he sells RAM products).
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I admit I don't know much about performance clutches. But I do know there is a racing clutch manufacturer in my neck of the country that has made a name for itself in racing circles.
Ace clutches. (note no direct link!)
I suggest at least looking at their website they seem to offer what you are looking for. With the bonus its all American developed and made. I believe the Gateway Mustang guys use them in their coyote conversions.
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Twin disc clutches have their place, Usually racing where you can take advantage of all the advantages and reduce diameter (inertia). If you go with same diameter as stock, now you have twice the friction area so quicker (jerkier) engagement is expected. You end up making your tires the slip mechanism.
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My 2017 GT350 had a dual disc clutch. It was smooth as butter, with very minimal leg effort.
I believe they use lighter springs with more surface area to accomplish an easy pedal and smooth engagement.
I am hearing otherwise on here. But, is this from your direct experience, or what you heard on VMF?
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MS wrote:
Is this from your direct experience, or what you heard on VMF?
I believe DC is a wealth of knowledge as far as racing application and SBF's.
Jus say'in
6sal6
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Agreed, but I think MS's point is also valid. Just like there are racing single disc clutches there are also racing twin disc clutches. Racing clutches are typically too aggressive for street use. That said, there are street friendly versions of both. That said, the twin discs are going to be pricey (cheap setups are $700-$1,000). From what I've seen most guys have no issues with a proper single disc clutch for the street. Twin discs start to be attractive in the 700-750HP range, which is beyond what most street engines are making.
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