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5/14/2022 7:26 PM  #1


Gear oil

I learned something today.


Monday, November 25, 2019
Why Run Conventional Gear Oil?
We get asked this question almost every day, and the answer is straight up, you should only run 85W-140, API GL-6 rated conventional (non-synthetic) gear oil in a Currie axle assembly. You may hear about how synthetic gear oil provides reduced friction and wear; however, it may not be optimal for your setup – especially if you have a Ford 9-inch rearend. Hear us out.

The 9-Inch Gear Is Unique
The design of the 9-inch features a high-offset distance that places the center-line of the pinion gear 2.25-inches below the center-line of the ring gear, which is substantial when compared to the 1.125 to 1.5-inch offsets of other gear sets (see image below). The high-offset distance increases the contact patch between the ring and pinion teeth by approximately 30-percent and is a crucial reason for the legendary strength of the 9-inch gears. However, strength comes at a price, as this high-offset distance creates increased sliding friction and heat across the gear tooth face. Because of this, not using high-shear oil such as Currie’s 85/140w can lead to scoring and certain gear death, especially during extreme scenarios such as off-roading and racing. The increased pressure capabilities and wear resistance found in Currie’s GL-6 rated gear oils are designed with all this in mind to ensure your rearend’s gears and bearings are adequately protected under the most severe conditions.



API GL-5, Not Designed For A 9-Inch
Virtually all synthetic gear oils on the market today are only engineered to meet the API GL-5 specification, which Currie has found to be inadequate for the design of the 9-inch. The last 9-inch rearend rolled off the Ford assembly line in 1986, and it wasn't until 3-years later 1989 that the first synthetic gear oil, Mobile1 (GL-5 rated), hit the market. Just 9-years after the end of 9-inch production, in 1995, both the GL-6 standard and the test equipment were inactivated, making it unlikely that a synthetic oil manufacturer would go through the cost and effort to develop an oil to meet the obsolete GL-6 standard.

Conventional Oil Is Proven
Because many of today's commercially available synthetics are not engineered with the 9-inch's requirements in mind, Currie advises using only conventional 85W-140 non-synthetic GL-6 rated gear oil in all front and rearend applications. The viscous (thick) base stock of the 85W-140 oil (check out the videio)provides a cushion that helps protect the gears from shock loads and clings more effectively, pulling heat away from the tooth face and preventing localized heat build-up. The higher level of extreme pressure additives mandated by the GL-6 standard protects the gears from scoring and premature wear.


Racing and Severe-Duty
For high-performance applications such as drag cars, desert trucks, circle track, or anywhere a 10-inch gear makes sense, we recommend stepping up to our 250W conventional GL-6 gear oil. The higher viscosity provides additional protection from high shock loads, while increased levels of extreme pressure additives help further protect the gears against scoring loads.

Finally, conventional GL-6 rated gear oil is proven to work, which is why it's a requirement of our product warranty terms for all Currie axle assemblies. With 50-years of experience building and servicing rearends for every imaginable application, we are confident that our gear oil is an excellent choice for your next build.

 

5/15/2022 5:29 AM  #2


Re: Gear oil

My first thought is that if that's what they want you to use, then use it.

My second thought is that most 9" gear failures have nothing to do with the oil.  The gear failures are the result of the pinion bearings being too close together and the lack of a solid pinion bearing spacer.  Under shock loads the crush sleeve oscillates and allows the pinion to become a lever due to the offset design of the gear interface.  This flexes the case until the thin casting around the pocket bearing bore fails.  The pinion then gets cocked, the gears lock up and they tear themselves apart turning most of the internal components into scrap in the process. 

The 9" really isn't the great design its made out to be.  Truth be told it gets its reputation from heavy duty rears built for racing that used nodular iron cases, Detroit lockers, and better pinion supports.  I've seen more 9" failures than all other rears combined.  That said, I've seen more 9" rears in racing applications that all other rears combined, so it makes sense.  There are certainly advantages to the 9": its reasonably light, the drop out center section makes working on the gears much easier, and parts are cheaper than for all other designs.  The aftermarket embraced the 9" in a big way too.

It works great when properly built for most forms of auto racing.  You get into 4x4s and off raoding and the only guys that run them are those with trucks that had them stock.  The norm now are Dana 60s, Ford 10.5s, and GM 14 bolts.  Of course the real serious guys are running Rockwells out of Deuce and a Halfs. 

To bring it full circle to gear oil, the 10.5 in my F250 uses 70W140 synthetic from the factory.  That's what Ford specs, so that's what I use.   I recently rebuilt that rear at the 280k mark.  I'd say that gear oil is fine for that rear, but as I said initially I'd stick to whatever honors your warranty. 
 

Last edited by TKOPerformance (5/15/2022 10:49 AM)

 

5/15/2022 7:09 AM  #3


Re: Gear oil

My thoughts is that we over think our needs for cars with very limited uses. I just changed the gear lube in my 2500hd and never seen or heard of GL-6 till now. Seen a vid some years back where the ring gear push away heavy oil making a tunnel in cold temps.

New synthetics oil in ford toploader is too slippery. GL-2 makes a smoother drop in gear shift. I know that for sure, but anything more than 90w in winter here is no fun to drive till the oil warms up.

 

5/15/2022 10:56 AM  #4


Re: Gear oil

You're definitely not wrong about that. 

I'll also add that for those who don't race on sticky tires the idea that this rear or that trans is not going to hold up is mostly academic.  Drivetrain parts break from shock loads.  When the tires go up in smoke you aren't shock loading anything.  You need traction to shock load stuff.  You get slicks on a car and its a whole different ballgame.  Traction exposes weak links.  Off road you see this too because guys air their tires way down and are typically locked at both ends with steep gears in the rears and sometimes in the t-case too.  Lots of torque multiplication and traction can make stuff go pop that otherwise would seem unbreakable.  Look at a Dana 60 sometime.  The Dodge guys called it the "flying anvil".  Yet they can still break. 
 

 

Board footera


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