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Planning to replace some inner fenders on a 1966 Mustang. I needed to play with my welder and see if it worked again anyway, so I thought about the few different ways to do this. I decided to weld from the outside in! This actually simulates spot welds on the parts that show quite well.
I got some 16 gauge and 14 gauge sheet metal at the hardware store to give it a practice test. I used to do these quite a bit at my old job, but I have not done too many rosette welds in years. When I go to drill the spot welds out, I am just going to drill completely through them, leaving holes in the framerail.
Heres a sample. I hit the first 4 and blew a hole in #5 for practice repairing it. Heres what the first 3 would look like from the FRAME RAIL side. second photo The first photo is what the inner panel will look like. The one on the far left is the one I purposely blew a hole in to repair.
Now, you clean your rosette welds AND The frontside. Then you go back and hit the weld from the backside a second time with a higher heat AND low wire speed. then clean it off a second time (easier this time) Now this may not be for everyone, but if you want to simulate some spot welds in high showing areas, heres my idea. I played with different heat settings to get the best spot weld simulation (far right) This may not be for everyone, some might not like having to grind a bit of weld off the original weld a second time. However, It DOES make a nice circular impression!
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Obviously going to take some time to learn how to post pictures, cant seem to control what order they appear.
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The picture order might be the nature of the beast. I have that same problem on my email pictures in Outlook Express. I have taken to attaching them in reverse to get them to display in the proper order. In this day in age, you'd think they had that stuff figured out??
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I will try to explain this a little better. I was frustrated trying to post a picture yesterday. OK, What I was trying to say is this is a method to simulate spotwelds. What I was trying to describe was a way to STILL do that even IF you burn a hole in the sheetmetal. Because that is much more a possibilty with the lighter gauge metal as the base side. I hope this makes it make more sense.
Sorry, it kind of sounded weird. LOL
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I use a copper backup pad on the back side to support the thin metal and suck away some of the heat. It really helps with the looks from the bac side since you don't get the drips of metal sticking out anymore. I have ones that I just put on with the clamp like you have and I have some that are attached to magnets for where I can't use the clamp.
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Funny you mentioned that, because I ordered a VIM plug weld tool (magnetic backing plate) to see if I can do even better. When I saw one online, I thought it might have an unexpected benefit of some heat disapation.
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How bout this.......Takes a helper butt...put a nice hot spot and then...have buddy on one side with a heavy flat piece (like a big ole hammer)...you hit the weld and sorta splatter/flaten the weld whie its hot! it will flatten the weld AND pull the two pieces together tight. Just need to be careful when you "hit-it".
6sal6
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