Bearing Bob wrote:

ARP kit.

they offer several. are the covers not all the same?
 

BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:

Bearing Bob wrote:

ARP kit.

they offer several. are the covers not all the same?
 

Covers for a 5.0 are pretty much the same but the accessories that the bolts help hold down can vary according to the vee-hickle.

The Standard 5.0 in the CV, TC, and Marq had a number of Stud-Bolts holding down the front cover that the AC and Alternator/power steering brackets attached to.  Some may be handy, some you may want to do away with...depends on which front dress you are going to use. 

Billy, check out AMK Products. They have bolt kits for everything on your car. The Mustang vendors have them. 
 https://www.amkproducts.com/master-kits/ford-master-fastener-kits
I used their water pump bolt kit on my car, it comes with a chart showing where each bolt goes. 
Their stuff is often used for restorations because it is so exact. 

Bullet Bob wrote:

BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA wrote:

mine will have the factory A/C and Power Steering

Factory Exploder?  That's not the cleanest or easiest setup  to put in a classic.  That's what my friend decided to do with the Falcon Project.  It fit but it's tight....and ugly in my opinion.  The stock Mustang HO single belt serpentine system is the cleanest.  The two belt from the CV, TC or Marq works great with a little minor tweaking.  Or, the stock V-belt system from the 289 will work too.

BB1

 no from my 65 mustang

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bra-1681

this is waterpump

Here is the deal.  I have assembled many 289 and 302 and 351 engines through the years and have never found a “kit” that fits what you want. On my 351w, it took three ARP kits to get all the bolts I needed in the lengths required to do the job.
On yours, an Explorer or 5.0 kit is obviously NOT going to work because everything is different. A 289 kit for a 65 theoretically would work, if it came with the right bolts, but your Explorer block requires longer bolts than a 289 block where the two alignment dowels go on the timing cover.

All that said, www.monsterfastener.com is your best bet.  You need to mock up your assembly and measure the lengths that you need to do the job, then order some grade 8 flanged hex head bolts to do the job.  Be sure to allow for the extra length required where the lower timing bolts go through the alignment dowels. Those threads do not start at the face of the block. They are recessed about 1/4”. If you use the 289 bolts in those positions, they will only engage about 1/8” of threads.
If you want to buy a kit, get the 65 289 kit, but be sure you test everything. Those two will be too short. Others may be too long and bottom out before they clamp down on what you are trying to fasten.

All 289 kits are not same, no matter what manufacturer tells you. Some have early water pump. Some have iron pump. Some have smog pump.

The only real way to get this right is to measure and buy what you need.

Or, do like I did and keep ordering extra kits until you finally get everything you need. $$$$$$

You can always go to a hardware store and buy cheap bolts in every length and take them home and try them for length, and then order what you need.  Some may have to be trimmed for length   Nothing makes an engine look worse than using a bunch of cheap bolts and washers to assemble it.  Ford used flanged head grade 8 bolts on just about everything, but there were some exceptions.  To me, it just makes sense to do it right even though it takes some extra effort.

Every 5/16” bolt should have about 1/2” of thread engagement.

josh-kebob wrote:

Or, and this is just a thought, you could thoroughly plan your engine build before spending a dime.
Establish what front dress you're going to use then, purchase what you need to install said front dress.
Same for intakes, exhaust manifolds, exhaust systems, heads, PS, AC components, h20 pump, etc.

Grab a pen and paper and write everything down. Searching this forum for answers works too...thus, the search function.

Once you have a plan, purchase needed components then, go forth and conquer...

Sounds simple and it is....saves time too...

Again, just a thought...

just wondering what bolts will work with what I have engine. The engine is at machine shop getting balanced and will be going together soon...just getting the bolts up since it did not have any.

Last edited by BILLY WALTON from GEORGIA (8/06/2022 7:55 PM)

zakdaddy99 wrote:

Billy here's a link for their small block engine bolt kits:
https://www.amkproducts.com/i-kits/ford-individual-fastener-kits/?year_=1966&model=Mustang&category=Engine%20-%20289%2F302%2F351W

F489 kit for timing cover and F249 for the water pump. The water pump kit is for a 67 with factory A/C. 
Click on the camera on the far right to see what comes in each kit.

I also have the FlowKooler pump on mine...

thanks I will check into those ...just trying to get the bolts up so I will have them when the builder is done.
 

MS wrote:

The bolts that enter the block will be identical to what is used on a 289, except those two that need to be longer that I previously mentioned.

Another method might be to pull the bolts one at a time from the old engine and measure them, then reinstall if you want to sell the 289 complete. Then just order replacements. That should be pretty simple to do even with the 289 still in the car.

Good idea thanks for sharing.
 

I just finished replacing the timing cover gasket, water pump and oil pan gasket on a 302, Ford Racing water pump, March serpentine system with power steering and alternator. I ordered the LMR ARP kit and did not read the fine print, so now I have a bunch of ARP bolts that I do not need. If you want them, let me know and I will ship them out. Some of them might fit your application. I will also include the Felpro plastic installation bolts which are handy when installing the oil pan.
The Felpro silicone oil pan gasket ($$$), installed per Felpro's instructions with silicone on and in each of the four nubs and recesses, leaked at the front and rear of the oil pan (Canton oil pan), so I had to redo and used a lot of black rtv. No leaks now. 

boss347convertible wrote:

I just finished replacing the timing cover gasket, water pump and oil pan gasket on a 302, Ford Racing water pump, March serpentine system with power steering and alternator. I ordered the LMR ARP kit and did not read the fine print, so now I have a bunch of ARP bolts that I do not need. If you want them, let me know and I will ship them out. Some of them might fit your application. I will also include the Felpro plastic installation bolts which are handy when installing the oil pan.
The Felpro silicone oil pan gasket ($$$), installed per Felpro's instructions with silicone on and in each of the four nubs and recesses, leaked at the front and rear of the oil pan (Canton oil pan), so I had to redo and used a lot of black rtv. No leaks now. 

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