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Daze – very nice of you to investigate this ‘water phenomenon” and publish a retraction.
I also had to block off the oil level casting hole in a rear sump block but used a ¼” diameter expansion cup, never leaked.
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2x on the expansion plug on the side dip stick hole.
I use the ball end of a small ball-peen hammer and run it down the sharp edges to cut the tape. Have to use the knife blade for the tight areas too. But Im gunna keep the file technique in mind for the next time!
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I agree with using a pipe thread plug to seal off the dipstick hole. I even use a little JB-Weld on the threads for insurance.
I rarely paint a block before assembly. Easier to spray it after the heads are on, then use brake cleaner and a rag to wipe away any in unwanted areas. I would be very hesitant to run a file across anything on a bare block that is being prepped for assembly. Aren’t you concerned with tiny tilings falling inside a block that has already been cleaned up?
On painting, there are areas at the top of the cylinders that do get painted. Laying an extra head gasket on there does the trick and allows those areas to get painted. Same goes for intake manifold gaskets. Part of the intake surface on iron heads gets painted. You will see when the intake is bolted on. Not so for aluminum heads, obviously.
I do agree completely with your torch/water removal observation. I do, however, heat parts with a torch sometimes to get them warmer to promote better adhesion and quicker drying.
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I did this when I did my son's engine. Haven't fired it yet but the first paint we put on starting flaking off. So we tried this. How To Get A Beautiful, Long Lasting Paint Job On Your Engine For One Dollar - YouTube
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very Nice video....I tried the brush on por-15 hope it does as good as other products I have used from them so far it looks like a baked on ceramic finish.
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Steve69 wrote:
I did this when I did my son's engine. Haven't fired it yet but the first paint we put on starting flaking off. So we tried this.
That is the exact same myth. The moisture he is getting is from the torch exhaust and not coming out of the block. You put a high power heat gun to it on the hottest setting no moisture will appear. There are benefits of torching the block to burn off contaminants and as MS said getting it to painting temp but the moisture he is showing "coming out of the block" is from the torch If I was going to brush it on I think I would use por15 engine enamel. I like rustolium, its poor mans powder coat once it finally cures but I am not sure if it is the best choice in a high temp situation.
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As always a great video Daze! I liked the explanation about the moisture problem better then the other guys for sure. Looking forward to the next one!
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Quicksilver wrote:
As always a great video Daze!
Thanks!!
Quicksilver wrote:
Looking forward to the next one!
The next one is going to be on picking a cam. I was originally going to use the truck cam but then got to looking at the 303 cams. Made a post here and got some good advice, then I started playing with the curves in my digital dyno. the video will be a bit more "how to pick a cam" because I will generate graphs of power curves and only change one thing. Show people what more or less duration does to the curves, more or less separation angle and so on. After that I am doing a video dedicated to MS's GOTCHAS in SBF engine building.
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One thing I am certain of…. I am certain I don’t know ALL the gotchas. But the list is pretty good.
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MS wrote:
One thing I am certain of…. I am certain I don’t know ALL the gotchas. But the list is pretty good.
The list is EXCELLENT!! I am looking forward to paying homage to the most experienced Ford engine builder I know.
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