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I recently bought some VHT Epoxy paint. I wanted to paint that Flaming River steering wheel hub I bought. It had a polished aluminum finish. It needed to be semi-gloss black. I followed the directions on the can(I did really). Spray multiple coats within several hours. Wait 48 hours to paint additional coats. I waited 72 plus hours and each time the additional finish lifted(crackled), whatever it's called. Anybody else have that issue?
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Did you deglaze the polished hub, what kind of primer was used?
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Rudi wrote:
Did you deglaze the polished hub, what kind of primer was used?
Yep, used a scotchbrite pad, SummitRacing etching primer. Not a problem until I sprayed the hub again after 72 hours!
I bought new Krylon Colormaxx paint and the directions are amost the same. What's with this new 48 hour waiting period?
Also found out it's really not epoxy paint it's really enamel.
The Krylon Colormaxx paint flowed a lot better than the VHT, so I was able to finish it without having to apply more coats after 48 hours. Funny/ironic thing is that none of this information is on the Krylon website. It's only on the can.
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I have always had good results with the VHT.
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Steve-G wrote:
I have always had good results with the VHT.
Never had a problem with any of their other paints. But this is now a problem:
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Nevermind…. I realized different product was having that issue.
Last edited by Nos681 (4/13/2023 4:13 PM)
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When painting aluminum I media blast the surface, even on a brand new part, to remove the oxide layer and give the new paint some texture to which to bond. Then I clean off the part with Brake Kleen and compressed air or lacquer thinner and compressed air. Then I use a product called Zinchrom, which is a Martin Seymour primer I get at the local NAPA. Then I top coat it with whatever (often engine enamel). I've done this on timing covers, AC compressors, transmission cases, etc. and never had an issue with flaking, peeling, or crazing as you describe. The finish has proven durable enough to withstand Brake Kleen and the parts washer a year later.
Now as to why the VHT crazed, My guess would be that there is a very narrow window during which it can be recoated. By waiting longer than the specified time the next coat may simply not have been able to create a bond with the first coat. I've often seen on such paints that the instructions say something like "recoat in 48 hours without prep, or scuff surface with 220-320 grit sandpaper if waiting longer between coats".
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If you want a satin or semi-gloss black, I highly recommend the VHT Roll Bar Black spray paint. I use it on everything and it covers perfect and you can’t possibly screw it up. Touch ups or recoats can be done at any time and blend completely. And it lasts forever.
I used to use Rustoleum satin black, but they reformulated it and it does not spray like it used to. It is still a great coating but is more difficult to use.
I have never experienced any lifting with either of these.
Anything that comes in a rattle can is NOT epoxy, which requires a two part catalyzed mix that has a finite pot life.
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What was the temperature when you painted it? How heavy did you apply it?
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Truck bed liner paint is REAL forgiving. Spray that and then top coat it.
6sal6
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Went off the tracks a little bit here, but the point I was trying to make is that the rattle can paints are changing and you need to be aware that not all the new paints are going to work as expected. I took that VHT Epoxy Paint back to O'reillys for an exchange of the Krylon Paint. The Krylon Colormaxx paint has almost exactly the same directions. Never applied a second coat after 48 hours so don't know if the results would have been the same as the VHT Epoxy Paint.
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I would suppose it has to do with VOC regulations. They are screwing up everything. Brake Kleen doesn't work as well without the trichlorethelyne. Even parts washing solvent is nowhere near as good as it used to be. If something has heavy, caked on grease start with Diesel fuel or Kerosene. Art least they haven't ruined those yet, well, as far as cleaning ability goes anyway.
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At least they helped Diesel fuel by reducing the "stink" when they removed most of the sulfur.
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Unfortunately they didn't get the reformulation right and the sulfur that was removed took most of the paraffin with it. Paraffin was what lubricated and cushioned the parts in injection pumps and injectors. Newer Diesels designed to run on LSD and ULSD were unaffected, but many older engines experienced failures as a result. Nothing on a Diesel is cheap, so it was not inconsequential to those who had to foot the bill for the repairs. Some guys got around it by using various additives or just putting a quart of TWC-3 two stroke oil in the tank at every fill up. I'm betting that was ultimately worse for the environment than the sulfur. Eventually they fixed the issue with the fuel, but a lot of guys still swear by the additives.
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I have been restoring some old Johnson outboard tanks like this and I have been using Rustoleum Self etching primer - several light coats a few minutes apart. I let it cure for a week then I hit it the same way with Rustoleum Gloss Apple Red - several light coats a few minutes apart. I have had to wet sand the sides where the decals go, and have repainted the sides well after 48 hours and I have never had the paint curdle.
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Ron68 - nice work.
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That's beautiful, Ron. Great work.
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