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4/17/2023 9:44 PM  #1


Back to work on my '68 - new third member question

Hey everyone,

After 15 years or more, I'm finally in a place (place = money + time) where I can pick up my restomod project again. I'm digging back through all of my plans, saved docs, and links, trying to remember what I was doing when I set it aside... In a nutshell, I've built & installed a 5.0L (mild build) w/ T5, TCP power r&p, MS cable clutch & power brakes, Granada (Maverick, actually) front discs, and currently working on swapping out the factory rear end with a 9" and adapting (hopefully) '92 Crown Vic rear discs to that housing.

I've just pulled out all of my rear end parts, and am realizing that I'm really not equipped to rebuilt that trac-lock anymore, let alone the third member, plus I think the current 3.89 gear ratio will be way too low for a (fair weather) daily driver, so I'm going buy a new complete third member. I've been looking at the Yukon Gear 3.50 (28 spline) trac-lock, and was wondering if any of you have experience with that brand, or would recommend something else for my car. I'm completely open to other ideas.

Also, I have to say that after all these years, it's really great to see so many familiar names still active on this forum!
 

 

4/17/2023 10:20 PM  #2


Re: Back to work on my '68 - new third member question

IM STILL HERE


Its really me....I fixed my caps lock .
 

4/18/2023 4:36 AM  #3


Re: Back to work on my '68 - new third member question

Considerable experience.  I won't use anyone else's gears and I've run two of their limited slips and been very happy with both.  Personally though I think I'd upgrade to 31 spline axles.  Be sure to get rid of the crush sleeve as well (use a solid spacer instead). 

Last edited by TKOPerformance (4/18/2023 4:37 AM)

 

4/18/2023 9:08 AM  #4


Re: Back to work on my '68 - new third member question

TKOPerformance wrote:

Considerable experience.  I won't use anyone else's gears and I've run two of their limited slips and been very happy with both.  Personally though I think I'd upgrade to 31 spline axles.  Be sure to get rid of the crush sleeve as well (use a solid spacer instead). 

Thanks for the feedback, I thought they looked like pretty high quality pieces. They come fully assembled with solid spacers already installed, which is one of the reasons I'm getting the full assembly - I don't have access to the tools (and know-how) to make those measurements (backlash, preload, etc.) anymore. I can press on the yoke, but that's about the limit of what I can realistically do on one of these. I know all the off-roaders and racers like higher spline counts, but for my car 28 will be fine, plus I'm trying to avoid unnecessary spending so that I can afford the things that really matter to me.

Last edited by LoveToFlyGuy (4/18/2023 9:10 AM)

     Thread Starter
 

4/18/2023 2:39 PM  #5


Re: Back to work on my '68 - new third member question

I have an Auburn posi unit in my 9”, and am happy with it.  I recently changed to 3.70’s (from 3.89) due to a noisy rear (pinion bearings were bad).  I’m not sure of your driving habits, but with the T-5 trans, I wouldn’t go below 3.50s. While I have 28-spline axles, if you are in need of getting new axles, I would go for 31-spline, just to be safe.  Note to verify that the axle bearings may need to be changed to the ‘large’ bearing to accommodate the 31-spline axles.


65 Fastback, 351W, 5-speed, 4 wheel discs, 9" rear,  R&C Front End.
 

4/18/2023 9:32 PM  #6


Re: Back to work on my '68 - new third member question

BobE wrote:

I have an Auburn posi unit in my 9”, and am happy with it.  I recently changed to 3.70’s (from 3.89) due to a noisy rear (pinion bearings were bad).  I’m not sure of your driving habits, but with the T-5 trans, I wouldn’t go below 3.50s. While I have 28-spline axles, if you are in need of getting new axles, I would go for 31-spline, just to be safe.  Note to verify that the axle bearings may need to be changed to the ‘large’ bearing to accommodate the 31-spline axles.

Thanks. I've mellowed somewhat in my 5th decade on this planet, so I'm not a super aggressive driver, but I do like to step into it on occasion - scares the daylights out of the Mach-e drivers
Are you running a T5? I have 3.89 gears that I was planning on using, but re-did the math and thought that toning it down a little would still give me plenty of bottom end power, but also give me a much more comfortable highway cruise, hence the 3.50 decision. If I didn't already have the 28 spline axles, I would definitely go with the 31 spline.

     Thread Starter
 

4/19/2023 5:12 AM  #7


Re: Back to work on my '68 - new third member question

If its a Fox Mustang T5 then 3.50-3.70 is about the perfect gear with a reasonably sized tire.  I have a Fox Mustang T5 with 3.50s in mine. 

I hear not wanting to spend unnecessarily, but consider what gets destroyed when you break an axle.  The gearset, possibly the housing, etc., etc.  Also, if they are stock 28 spline axles how old are they?  The stock heat treat wasn't really all that good, and axles do fatigue over time.  Nothing wrong with economy, but beware false economy. 
 

 

4/19/2023 9:00 AM  #8


Re: Back to work on my '68 - new third member question

TKOPerformance wrote:

If its a Fox Mustang T5 then 3.50-3.70 is about the perfect gear with a reasonably sized tire.  I have a Fox Mustang T5 with 3.50s in mine. 

I hear not wanting to spend unnecessarily, but consider what gets destroyed when you break an axle.  The gearset, possibly the housing, etc., etc.  Also, if they are stock 28 spline axles how old are they?  The stock heat treat wasn't really all that good, and axles do fatigue over time.  Nothing wrong with economy, but beware false economy. 
 

Yes, the T5 is from an '86 Fox Mustang and that's what caused me to re-evaluate the 3.89 gears I was going to use - it's great to hear that you're getting good performance from 3.50 gears. What size wheels/tires are you running? I've been planning on going with 17" wheels, but I'm not committed to that yet - I still have 14" wheels on it right now.

I appreciate the advice about the axles, and you made a very good point. After more than 15 years, I can't remember where (or what) they came from, so I don't actually know how old they are. At this point, I've ordered that third member ($1216 from CSP Racing with free shipping), so I'm committed to the 28 spline axles, just maybe not the ones I already have.

     Thread Starter
 

4/19/2023 9:26 AM  #9


Re: Back to work on my '68 - new third member question

LoveToFlyGuy wrote:

BobE wrote:

I have an Auburn posi unit in my 9”, and am happy with it.  I recently changed to 3.70’s (from 3.89) due to a noisy rear (pinion bearings were bad).  I’m not sure of your driving habits, but with the T-5 trans, I wouldn’t go below 3.50s. While I have 28-spline axles, if you are in need of getting new axles, I would go for 31-spline, just to be safe.  Note to verify that the axle bearings may need to be changed to the ‘large’ bearing to accommodate the 31-spline axles.

Thanks. I've mellowed somewhat in my 5th decade on this planet, so I'm not a super aggressive driver, but I do like to step into it on occasion - scares the daylights out of the Mach-e drivers
Are you running a T5? I have 3.89 gears that I was planning on using, but re-did the math and thought that toning it down a little would still give me plenty of bottom end power, but also give me a much more comfortable highway cruise, hence the 3.50 decision. If I didn't already have the 28 spline axles, I would definitely go with the 31 spline.

I’m running a WC T5 that has a 1st gear ratio of 2.95, the 5th (OD) is 0.63.  With 3.70 gears the final drive ratio in 5th gear is 2.33.  I have 225/60-15” tires.  At 60 MPH the difference between the 3.89s and 3.70’s in about 100 RPM less, 1930 vs. 1835 RPM.  (With 3.50’s, it would be about 100 RPM lower than the 3.70s).  At 80MPH, it’s like 2570 vs. 2450 RPM (3.50s would be about 2315 RPM).
I believe that the 351W I have has maybe 400 HP, I don’t drag (or any race) anymore, so I didn’t feel the need to upgrade to 31-spline axles.  I do silly things once in a while like smoky burnouts, and haven’t had any issues … yet. 

 


65 Fastback, 351W, 5-speed, 4 wheel discs, 9" rear,  R&C Front End.
 

4/20/2023 5:04 AM  #10


Re: Back to work on my '68 - new third member question

I would get a set of Moser replacement axles at the very least.  I have a set in my IROC, which are only 28 spline (largest available for the 7.5" 10 bolt).  They've held up well.  The problem with drivetrain parts is they are fine, until they aren't.  You typically get no warning, just a loud bang and an expensive repair bill.  After breaking a bunch of stuff in my youth I started to if anything overbuild the drivetrain in my projects.  Insurance always seems expensive until you need it. 

 

4/20/2023 10:39 AM  #11


Re: Back to work on my '68 - new third member question

BobE wrote:

I’m running a WC T5 that has a 1st gear ratio of 2.95, the 5th (OD) is 0.63.  With 3.70 gears the final drive ratio in 5th gear is 2.33.  I have 225/60-15” tires.  At 60 MPH the difference between the 3.89s and 3.70’s in about 100 RPM less, 1930 vs. 1835 RPM.  (With 3.50’s, it would be about 100 RPM lower than the 3.70s).  At 80MPH, it’s like 2570 vs. 2450 RPM (3.50s would be about 2315 RPM).
 

So it turns out that my T5 may be older than I thought, I found a photo from years ago that I took of the tag on that trans, so if I'm reading it right, it's an '84:
E4ZM 7003-A   F1863
1352-115 000201

If that's right, then my 1st gear will be 2.95 instead of 3.35 - not a big deal, but good to know. Great, now I'm trying to talk myself out of cracking the trans open to see what shape it's in, and we all know what that leads to...

     Thread Starter
 

4/20/2023 10:42 AM  #12


Re: Back to work on my '68 - new third member question

TKOPerformance wrote:

I would get a set of Moser replacement axles at the very least.  I have a set in my IROC, which are only 28 spline (largest available for the 7.5" 10 bolt).  They've held up well.  The problem with drivetrain parts is they are fine, until they aren't.  You typically get no warning, just a loud bang and an expensive repair bill.  After breaking a bunch of stuff in my youth I started to if anything overbuild the drivetrain in my projects.  Insurance always seems expensive until you need it. 

I slept on that thought, and managed to convince myself to go shop for axles... Do you know of any brands that should be avoided?
 

     Thread Starter
 

4/20/2023 2:12 PM  #13


Re: Back to work on my '68 - new third member question

I would avoid anything that's a knock off.  Moser, Yukon, Strange, Currie, etc. I would feel confident buying. 

 

4/21/2023 8:50 AM  #14


Re: Back to work on my '68 - new third member question

I have Moser 28-sline axles.
If you're going to open up the T5, the Tremec website has has a service manual available to download.
I also found Paul Cangialosi to be a T5 helpful source; https://www.5speeds.com/word.html
 


65 Fastback, 351W, 5-speed, 4 wheel discs, 9" rear,  R&C Front End.
 

4/21/2023 9:08 AM  #15


Re: Back to work on my '68 - new third member question

TKOPerformance wrote:

I would avoid anything that's a knock off.  Moser, Yukon, Strange, Currie, etc. I would feel confident buying. 

Thanks. I bought a set from Yukon.
 

     Thread Starter
 

4/21/2023 9:16 AM  #16


Re: Back to work on my '68 - new third member question

BobE wrote:

I have Moser 28-sline axles.
If you're going to open up the T5, the Tremec website has has a service manual available to download.
I also found Paul Cangialosi to be a T5 helpful source; https://www.5speeds.com/word.html
 

Yeah, I think I'm going to do that since I have no idea what condition the internals are in. I rebuilt the 46RE in my old Durango a few years back, so this shouldn't to too bad. I figured that as long as I'm replacing everything else in the drive train, I might as well do it properly and give the T5 an overhaul as well. I watched a YouTube video with Paul & Eric the car guy rebuilding a T5, so I'm convinced that I should do it, and confident that I can do the job.

     Thread Starter
 

4/21/2023 7:07 PM  #17


Re: Back to work on my '68 - new third member question

Make sure you set the endplay on the countergear and mainshaft.  I usually preload them by 0.001-0.003" despite what the book says.  They live longer like that.  A countergear support is also a wise investment. 

 

Board footera


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